L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 26, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS P ietro Lombardi may never have finished the commis s ion to des ign and build a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e fontanella (small fountain) for all of Rome's 22 rioni (neigh- borhoods), or even the 14 origi- nal ones. He did, however, leave an indelible mark on the eight rioni which did receive one of his creatively designed drinking fountains. In this installation, we'll take a look at the remain- ing six. Rione VIII – Sant'Eusta- chio Long and narrow, the rione of Sant'Eustachio runs through the bulls-eye center of Rome, but can lay no claim to any of the historic monuments. The rumor holds that the best cup of espres- so in Rome is found here — if that's any consolation prize. The neighborhood is named after St. Eustachio, a Roman general formerly named Placidus. While on a hunting expedition, he pulled his arrow taunt, taking aim at a large stag. Just before he released the bow's tension, the vision of Christ (or s ome s ay a cros s ) appeared between the antlers and a voice was heard asking, "Placidus, why do you persecute me?" The general was transformed, pro- fessed Christianity, took on a new name, and eventually met his demise inside a bronze bull set on fire. The Church of Sant'Eusta- chio w as built on w hat w as either the site of Eustachio's home or the location of his exe- cution. Lombardi took all of this into cons ideration w ith his design for the Fontanella dei Libri. The fountain showcases the head of a stag with Christ's face between the antlers. On either side, are two sets of books that represent the ancient Uni- versity of Rome, said to have once been located in the building the fountain is a part of. Two bookmarks peek out from the books and pour a steady stream of fresh water into a basin at the foot, while five symbolic balls, or "pills," watch over it all, a tribute to the Medici Pope Leo XI, founder of the university. Rione IX – Pigna Being declared the pinecone neighborhood might seem a bit unglamorous, but there's a lot more to the story. It was in this neighborhood that the ancient Baths of Agrip- pa and the Temple of Isis were located. In the late third centu- ry, a massive bronze pinecone sculpture was unearthed at the ruins. This beautiful work of art had been the centerpiece for a fountain at the pagan site, but was fortunately spared the fate of many such objects — being melted down for other uses. It found a new home during the M iddle A ges in the old S t. Peter's Basilica. Today, the mas- sive pinecone sits proudly in the V atican mus eum for all to admire. Lombardi used the ancient sculpture as his inspiration and model for the Fontanella della Pigna, which holds a place of honor in front of the Church of San Marco. Rione XII – Ripa Translated as "river bank," the Ripa rione marks the area that served as ancient Rome's river harbor, the Ripa Grande. Ripa's coat of arms features a ship rudder that is a direct refer- ence to the neighborhood's important past. Lombardi's creation here is rather astute but demands atten- tion. The large rudder logo is the fountain's main feature, with water pouring from its center into a bas in below . The Fontanella del Timone (Fountain of the Helm) is situated on a busy street paralleling the river; however, its location is actually on the opposite side of the river outs ide the Ripa boundary. Whether Lombardi intended the location to be ironic or not, it certainly is — a ship helm is w hat keeps a ves s el on due course! Rione XIII – Travestere Once a quiet, working-class neighborhood, Travestere is now where all the cool kids hang out. An active night scene, a plethora of cafés and trattorias, and a live- ly vibe make this rione one that's steadily rising on the "to do" list for tourists and locals alike. Travestere's name originates from the Latin "trans Tiberim," meaning across the Tiber – and across the river it is, on the banks opposite Rome's seven hills. Its coat o f arms dis plays a lion against a backdrop of red, but Lombardi had other ideas. He chose an area off of Piazza San Callisto where an ancient cistern had once provided water. Town people would bring their casks and take their fill of fresh water – a perfect place to construct his fountain. The Fontanella della Botte (Fountain of the Cask) rests in an inset of a rough-stuccoed wall. An arch presides over a beauti- fully carved cask flanked by two smaller amphorae-like vessels. A half-barrel res ts beneath the cas k's s pigot collecting the stream of water. And as it's been for ages, people still come and cool off with a sip or two. Of cours e, s ome folks prefer to interpret the fountain as a tribute to wine, and there's no reason to believe Lombardi didn't have this in mind, as well. Rione XIV – Borgo Perhaps the youngest of the "historic 14," Borgo came to be under the reign of Pope Sixtus V. He's the fellow who whipped Rome back into shape in the late 1500s, along with re-establishing her his toric r ioni. The area developed with inns and reli- gious institutes to host the steady stream of pilgrims visiting St. Peter's Basilica, located at the western end of the neighbor- hood. Borgo is the only rione that can claim ownership to two of the Lombardi fontanelle. The first, the Fontanella delle Tiare (Fountain of the Crowns) pays tribute to the papacy and features elaborately carved crowns remi- niscent of the type once worn by popes . The mas s ive beehive shaped tiara at the pinnacle of the fountain is s upported by three smaller ones which are in turn supported by a series of six vertical keys – St. Peter's key to heaven. Basins carved to look like scallop shells collect the water for easy access. The foun- tain is a beautiful combination of various papal symbols. The Borgo rione has yet another "resident" of notoriety: Castel Sant'Angelo. This cylin- drical-shaped and quite impres- sive building was originally con- structed by Hadrian in the first century AD as a final resting place for himself and his heirs — or at least their urns. It saw a series of transitions over many centuries, and eventually was used as a fort and papal castle. A series of visions of Michael the Archangel were reported during the Middle Ages and, thus, the structure's nickname stuck. Lombardi saw fit to build this drinking fountain on Via Porta Sant'Angelo and highlight the castello's history of battle. Nine cannonballs, reportedly taken from Caste Sant'Angelo, form a pyramid in the center of the 2- dimensional fountain, while two additional cannon balls sit to the right and left, a steady stream pouring from them into the aus- tere basins below. Centered in the pyramid, a blustery fellow with pursed lips peers at those who pause to look at the water gushing from his mouth. Drink up!, his eyes seem to tease. Whether history took note of why Lombardi never completed his assignment, I've yet to dis- cover. Regardless, his unique and charming artistic interpreta- tions of eight of Rome's historic neighborhoods are enjoyed daily by those who seek them know- ingly, or simply happen upon a delightful paus e w hen thirs t calls. The Fontana dei Libri, in the Rione VIII of Sant'Eustachio Rione e Fontanelle – Rome's historic neighborhoods and their clever fountains. Part II The Fontana della Pigna, in the Rione IX in central Rome ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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