L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano Rethinking Chianti I t's no secret that over the years Chianti has endured something of an image pro- blem. Wine lovers old enough to remember thin, acrid Chianti in straw-covered bot- tles know what I am talking about. The effect has been somewhat compounded by the fact that, for a relatively inexpensive, easy- drinking, uncomplicated red wine, Chianti can issue to consumers a good deal of head-scratching for those who seek to better under- stand it. Although it has taken time, si- gnificant improvements in the vi- neyards and cellars of Chianti pro- ducers have resulted in a massive quality lift for what's in the glass. Educational marketing activities by Consorzio Vino Chianti and Chianti producers have in recent times helped the right information and messaging reach consumer ears. Today, the Chianti name re- presents quality made wines that span from simple and easy- drinking to classy and elegant, of- fering a range of selections that are well worth your attention. The name "Chianti" does not reflect homogeneity. Think of "Chianti" as a range of wines with a collective identity, offering di- versity in their particular profiles – intensity, weight, etc. – and ori- ginating from different areas or subzones within the Chianti pro- duction zone. The enormous Chianti DOCG production zone is located in cen- tral Tuscany. It encompasses ap- proximately 38,500 acres of vi- neyard area and seven subzones - Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Mon- talbano, Montespertoli, and Ru- fina. Subzone is typically identi- fied on the bottle label, i.e., "Chianti RufinaGeneric Chianti from non-subzone specific origins is likely labeled as simply "Chianti." Chianti production rules allow for a Superiore bottling, a version expecting more rigorous grape se- lection, a sublime example being Fattoria del Colle's Chianti Supe- riore. Regulation also makes pro- vision for a Riserva bottling, re- quiring longer aging before release. Fine examples include those from producers Beconcini and Sangervasio. Superiore and Riserva bottlings demonstrate aging potential, with Riserva ty- pically going the longer haul. The principal wine grape upon which Chianti is based is none other than Italy's indigenous va- riety Sangiovese. Production rules require a minimum of 70% San- giovese (75% for subzone Colli Senesi). Other allowable red gra- pes include native Italian varieties Canaiolo and Colorino, and inter- national Cabernets Franc and Sau- vignon. Interestingly, Chianti pro- duction rules allow for white grape varieties (typically Treb- biano, Malvasia) in the blend, up to 10%. Before you think this too radical an allowance for red wine production, it may interest you to know that the original Chianti re- cipe created by Barone Ricasoli called for both red and white gra- pes. The addition of white grapes to Chianti is an option that can bring lightness, freshness, and energy to the wine. A good exam- ple of that style is the delicious "il Garrulo" Chianti Colli Senesi from Montenidoli. On the other hand, some producers choose to make their Chianti from 100% Sangiovese. Such flexibility in production guidelines accounts for the aforementioned impressive range that Chianti wines offer. Another bit of potential confu- sion can be avoided with aware- ness that Chianti DOCG is distinct from Chianti Classico DOCG (the historic center for Chianti wine production). To be crystal clear: the two are geographically sepa- rate appellations with different production rules. Not least of which includes the white grape va- rieties allowable in Chianti, for- bidden in wines of Chianti Clas- sico. The website of Consorzio Vino Chianti (www.consorziovino- chianti.it) so well describes Chianti DOCG today that I will not attempt an improvement: "Chianti d.o.c.g. is now a bri- ght ruby red coloured wine, ten- ding towards garnet with age. It has a harmonious, dry, savoury and slightly tannic flavour, with an intensely vinous aroma, some- times with scents of violet. Some types of Chianti can be served when young, fresh and pleasant on the palate, but the vocation of certain areas for producing wines ideal for medium/long ageing, which mature unmistakable co- lour, bouquet and flavour is also well known. Moreover, soft pres- sing, fermentation at the right temperatures, evolution in fine wood and ageing in glass, convey personality to the wine: more gen- tle and smooth in terms of flavour, more complex in the bouquet and more intense in colour." Chianti DOCG wines offer the consumer exceptional diversity. One can find more serious Chianti to enjoy with grilled steak; easy- drinking and fun wine for a pic- nic; selections refreshing enough to accompany outdoor chores; wi- nes that expect fine crystal stemware, others that fare well in tumbler glasses. And Chianti DOCG wines deliver real value for money at a range of prices comfortable for a graduate stu- dent, stocks trader and everyone in between. Recommended producers in- clude Beconcini, Bellini, Castel- vecchio, Castello Nippozano, Ci- gnozza, Fattoria del Colle, Fattoria Fibbiano, Montenidoli, Sangervasio, Selvapiana. Tasting Note Montenidoli "il Garrulo" Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG Faded ruby color, magnificent perfume, nose of cherries so bri- ght as if played from a trumpet. Overtones of flowers and earth. Light, fresh, fruity palate, deli- cious acidity. Refreshing, pleasant finish. Great food wine. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, AUGUST 23, 2018 Chianti DOCG wines offer the consumer exceptional diversity There is more to Chianti than its stereotypical round, straw covered bottle

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