L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, AUGUST 23, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 8 FRANCESCA BEZZONE S aying that food, in Italy, is more than s imple nutrition means s tating the obvious: years and years of Sunday lunches and hol- iday feasts at nonna's place did- n't simply made our childhood memories sweeter, but taught us this little secret about our coun- try. Eating means a lot, in Italy: it speaks of conviviality and love, of history and local her- itage, of a past that shapes the future, of something we remain profoundly and undeniably proud of. Just like the arts, and culture in general, food is one of the shiniest precious stones in Italy's own regal crown, unique and breathtaking in its simplicity. Indeed Italian food, just like the clearer of diamonds, doesn't need much to cast its brightness around: pure ingredients, simple concoctions, respect for the past and a lot of love. And mind, as trite as the pairing food-love may appear, there is truth in it, espe- cially in Italy, where eating becomes convivial joyousness, and offering food a sign of wel- coming, of affection, sometimes a means to ease sorrow and pain, even. A recent book by Matt Goulding, Pasta, Pane, Vino: Deep Travels Through Italy's Food Culture (published by Harper Wave/Anthony Bour- dain) brought me to make some considerations on how the phi- losophy of Italian food truly could - and should - work for our lives, too: a philosophy where simplicity is key, where one's own identity rests solidly into tradition, only to bloom cre- atively and with flair, in a way typical of the people of the Mediterranean. A philosophy where the secret of happiness is learning how to make do, some- times, with what's at hand, because the most beautiful sur- prises may come from the hum- blest of things. In the kitchen, just as in life. And so, Goulding tells us how, in Italy, "every meal counts:" it counts because it becomes, day in day out, the cen- tral moment for the community - may it be a family, a group of friends, a couple - to take time to gather. A meal in Italy, as it is very much throughout the Mediterranean world, is a moment of profound conviviali- ty, of sharing and discussion. You eat, and enjoy the warmth of those you love the most. Have you ever wondered why "eating alone" is such a dreadful thing for an Italian? Because eating is more than nutrition, eating is family, union, sharing. And indeed, our Roman ancestors, and before them the Greeks and the Jewish communities of the Middle East, all understood the importance of sharing food and gathering around a table: it is from them we inherited the habit. In the world of social media and smartphone relationships, taking a leaf from this well ingrained Italian food habit could make many rediscover the pleasure of true human contact. The art of make-do and an adamant appreciation for what's essential are central to the beauty and taste of Italian cuisine, Goulding continues: how true! How many times have we seen our mothers and grandmothers opening the fridge and throwing together a feast from leftovers, or from a bunch of old vegetables? Well, the very heart of Italian cuisine is just in that, in the old adagio "non si butta via niente," because all, but truly all, can be turned into something delicious. The soul of Italy has been, for centuries and centuries, agricul- tural and it is in the rhythms and habits of the mondo contadino we find the origin of much of our traditional dishes: and so, out comes our cuisine's penchant for simple ingredients and seasonal concoctions, for things that fill you up from morning to evening, that comfort the stomach just as much as they soothe the soul. Very rarely Italian food asks for quirky ingredients, very rarely it involves complex, overly fancy preparations: it is all down to understanding the beauty of what we have and discovering the treasures of what's around us. And if this is not a lesson to learn for life as well, then I don't know what is. But Italians - boy, isn't it true - are pleasure lovers! And food is one of the pleasures we love the most. Take, for example, the uncanny habit we have to start the day with incredibly decadent breakfasts: in Piemonte, during the winter, you may well switch your cappuccino with a hot chocolate with cream and the cornetto with a handful of corn- meal and butter cookies; in Sici- ly, a brioche with ice cream or granita is a favored start for the day, and always remember our morning cornetti come in a mil- lion varieties which include cus- tard and chocolate cream. What does Italy's morning sweet tooth tell us about life? Well, I think it's quite simple: it is an invita- tion to enjoy the earthy pleasures of everyday living with an open heart, albeit without exaggera- tion, because life is too short to be perennially on a diet or to postpone that little trip, to renounce once more to read that book or to buy that silk tie. Eat- ing the Italian way also teach us a bit of that, in the end: not to say always no to pleasure. It's not an invitation to debauchery, mind, it's more of an acceptance of the fact that, in small quantities, even some naughty can do us good. The more I think about it, the more it really seems that learning how to eat like an Italian can teach us a thing or two about how to live a better life as well. Pity there are so many Italians, too, today, who seem to have for- gotten the basic, gritty, yet useful teachings of their culinary tradi- tion about how to live life with serenity. Never forget where you come from and respect it; look closer to home when you seek something special, because it's bound to be around; don't forget to enjoy pleasures and don't for- get simplicity and love are the key to everything. In the kitchen and in life. Matt Goulding's Pasta, Pane, Vino: Deep Travels Through Italy's Food Culture (Harper Wave/Anthony Bourdain) is widely available in stores and online, at an average price of 20 USD. Simplicity, tradition and creativity make of Italian food a true joy. We should strive for the same in our lives When life should mirror food: eating and living with Italian gusto LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS DESIGN

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