L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano Four go-to Italian reds with Spaghetti 'n Meatballs T hat spaghetti 'n meat- balls is not authentic Italian fare has been written, discussed, and debated since so- meone had the good sense to com- bine those two delicious items on the same plate and cover them with red tomato sauce. Allow me to suggest, however: whatever degree of truth may or may not be associated with that point of view, could depend upon where one happens to be standing at the moment of inquiry. And if you be [sic] standing here in the northeast USA – more precisely, the geo-corridor con- necting Italian-American commu- nities of Philadelphia, New York City, or Boston … well … you may find a few folks ready to di- sagree with that outlook. The image of meatballs served over spaghetti and covered with marinara sauce is so strongly as- sociated with Italian food it could well be that cuisine's unofficial logo. But, we are not here to debate the legitimacy of a pasta dish that became standard fare on Italian re- staurant menus throughout Ame- rica. (Not least because, in most Italian-American hearts, the mat- ter, I suspect, is unblurred). Let's talk about what vino we will enjoy with the most ubiqui- tous of Italian-American comfort foods! Here are my four go-to Ita- lian reds with spaghetti 'n meat- balls: Sangiovese Italy's most planted red wine grape variety, Sangiovese, plays an important role in a wide range of Italian wines. The naturally high acidity of Sangiovese harmonizes with the acidity of marinara sauce. And the earthiness and grip-y tan- nins of Sangiovese marry well to the meatballs' umami flavors. Also known as Sangioveto, Morellino, Prugnolo Gentile, and Brunello, Sangiovese is a principle compo- nent of what may be Italy's most widely recognized wine, Chianti. I especially like the freshness of young Chianti against the bright- ness of good marinara. Many To- scana Rosso wines where Sangio- vese plays a leading role have the lightness and delicious simplicity to avoid overpowering spaghetti and meatballs with complexity. Primitivo Primitivo, one of Italy's ten most planted red wine grape va- rieties, makes full and harmonious wines that are generally higher in alcohol. In Italy, Primitivo is cul- tivated almost entirely in Puglia. Primitivo's aromas and flavors of ripe, red and black cherry, plum, and strawberry, resonate well with the tomato-y sweetness of mari- nara. The wines have a savory edge that pairs well with the se- condary flavors of marinara sauce such as oregano. Primitivo's me- dium acidity and softness on the palate work especially well with spicier versions of red sauce, while its sleek tannins provide a rich sen- sation with the meatballs. Montepulciano Montepulciano is a much loved Italian grape that grows throu- ghout central Italy, Tuscany, Um- bria, Lazio, Marche, Molise, and down through Puglia, though it is predominantly linked to Italy's Abruzzo region where it accounts for more than half that region's land under vine. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are produced from a minimum of 85% Monte- pulciano grapes (this can vary in subzones). Most Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are meant for young consumption though the DOC does impose aging require- ments (vary by subzone) with con- sideration to whether the wine may be a riserva bottling. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo feels round in the mouth, smooth on the palate, and can be made in styles ranging from light and fruity to big, full bodied and unctuous. The wines typically exude notes of ripe cherry, often darker in tone, tending toward black cherry and even plum. Fewer tannins issue modest tannic grip on the palate, communicating a certain velvety girth. Chances are you will notice a characteristic spicy note on the finish. Nero d'Avola Sicily's second most planted cultivar (after Catarratto), Nero d'Avola is actually listed in Italy's National Registry of Grape Varie- ties by its official name of Cala- brese. At home most everywhere on the island, the variety accounts for approximately 16,500 hectares under vine. You can find Nero d'Avola bottled on its own as a monovarietal wine or blended, as it often is, with Frappato, to make the excellent Cerasuolo di Vitto- ria. Nero d'Avola's fruity dark red cherry and berry flavors, bright acidity, and salinity marry well with tomato sauce and I especially love this option when the meat- balls contain currants and pine nuts! So, please: discover an old- school spaghetti 'n meatballs joint. Red and white table cloths, Sinatra or Dean Martin music plays in the background. Order the spaghetti 'n meatballs, don't for- get the wine. Old world vs. new world authenticity? Fuhgedda- boudit. I'll let you in on a little secret: friends from the Italian pe- ninsula tell me that spaghetti 'n meatballs is actually an incredibly satisfying dish … though they'll never admit it. Tasting Note Colosi Nero d'Avola Aromas and flavors of cherries, wild berries, the wine is warm in the mouth, youthful energy on the palate. Notes of cocoa, liquorice, mint, herbs, pleasantly dry, with ripe, sweet tannins, enduring fi- nish. Sangiovese, Primitivo, Montepulciano and Nero d'avila are all excellent choices Reds are all great with a good plate of spaghetti and meatballs. But some are better than others JOEL MACK WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES

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