L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2019 Chiacchiere e frittelle: Carnevale's sweet pastries par excellence I t's coming up to Carnival time and bakeries in Italy have trays of 'chiacchiere' in their windows. Think a pa- stry that is thin, crispy, fried and covered in icing sugar….  I knew that would get your atten- tion! We would have these when I was growing up in Australia only when my Calabrese Nonna Con- cetta would make them.  I've always called them 'Crostoli', and their name changes throughout Italy.  The recipe remains more or less the same, the only real diffe- rence I noticed was that some peo- ple don't add butter or fat to the recipe. I recently asked on Facebook what people called these where they were from in Italy, and although Chiacchiere was the most common name, they are also known in various regions of Italy as: Crostoli – Cenci – Frappe – Sfrappe – Sfrappole – Bugie – Stracci – Fiocchi – Cencetti – Ga- lani – Sprelle – Meraviglias – Te- ste di Turchi – Intrigoni – Mona- chelle –  Straccetti – Nacatoli – Grostoli – Gali.  A couple of these are dialect, but I found it fascina- ting that one traditional sweet pa- stry can be called so many diffe- rent names. Whatever you prefer to call them, there is no denying that they are addictively delicious, and im- possible to eat just one.  They are not at all difficult to make, although a pasta machine will make your life a little easier.  This recipe comes the closest to resem- bling the crostoli my Nonna would make, and tasting them again in- voked nostalgic childhood memo- ries. CHIACCHIERE •10 1/2 oz plain flour •7 oz self-rising flour *(Alternatively, you can use 17.5 oz plain flour and add 0.28 oz of powdered yeast) •3 whole eggs + 1 egg yolk (li- ghtly beaten) •2 oz butter, room temperature •2 tablespoons grappa •pinch salt •3 oz sugar •zest of 1 lemon •sunflower or peanut oil for frying •icing sugar Directions 1. In an electric mixer, add sif- ted flour, sugar, eggs, grappa, salt and lemon zest and mix until well combined. Using a dough hook, add the butter, and mix until a dough forms. 2. Turn dough onto a lightly floured board and knead for about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth.  You may have to add a little water if the dough seems crumbly or dry.  Roll into a ball, cover in plastic kitchen wrap and let rest for 30 minutes at room tem- perature. 3. Divide dough into 4. Keep unused dough wrapped in plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out. Knead dough and roll out with the use of a rolling pin.  The next part is like making pasta.  Flatten the end of the piece of dough with the palm of your hand, and using a pasta machine pass it through once on the largest setting.  (My pasta machine is the attachment for my Kitchen Aid, and the largest gap is No. 1.) 4. Fold the dough in 3 and pass it through No. 1 another time.  Re- peat passing it through the pasta machine, increasing the number each time, and finish at No. 5.  (If you don't own a pasta machine, you can roll out the pasta by hand, just ensure your dough is very thin.) 5. Using a zig-zag pastry cut- ter, cut the pastry into strips. Cut a small line in the middle of each strip, and then fold one end in and under through the middle space. (see photos).  Some people don't do this. and you can choose to cook them without twisting the central part if you like.  6. Leave prepared raw chiac- chiere to rest for a couple of mi- nutes and heat oil in a saucepan or deep frying pan to a tempera- ture of about 180°C.  (Test oil with a scrap of dough). 7. Work quickly, add 3 chiac- chiere, turn them over, and re- move draining on kitchen paper. Repeat until you have cooked them all, and continue until you have used all remaining dough. 8. Serve sprinkled with icing sugar. Store in an airtight contai- ner.  Here is how to make your chiacchiere! © Toni Brancatisano Chiacchiere are light and crispy, even if they are deep fried! © Toni Brancatisano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES TONI BRANCATISANO Continued to page 32

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