L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 8, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano L ocated at the southern tip of Puglia, Otranto gazes serenely across the brilliant turquoise waters of the Adriatic to Albania and Greece. As Italy's easternmost town, its strategic location over the centuries pro- foundly influenced its history. Not only was Otranto a commer- cially important seaport for goods moving in and out, but its east- ward-facing position also made it susceptible to attack. Like much of Italy, Otranto's past is complicated. It was found- ed by the Greeks and later incor- porated by the Roman Empire where it became a vital trading post with Asia Minor and Greece. After the fall of Rome, the town was invaded by the Byzantines, Normans and Aragonese, to name a few. In the 9th century, a vibrant Jewish community helped the port city flourish. When the first Crusades were launched in 1095, some 12.000 men were blessed in the Otranto cathedral before set- ting sail to protect the Holy Sep- ulcher. Each of these cultures left its distinctive mark on the seafront community – whether through architecture, language, food or culture. But perhaps the most indeli- ble mark of all was left by the Turks in the late 15th century. On July 28, 1480, a Turkish fleet of about 140 ships laid siege to the town. It was a grueling two- week battle and the townspeople of Otranto fought the good fight. Eventually, the city was over- run. The Turks murdered all the men they could find and cap- tured the women and children. More than 800 residents barri- caded themselves in the cathe- dral where Bishop Stefano Agri- coli led them in prayers which, unfortunately, went unanswered. The Turks burs t into the church and the pasha demanded the tow ns people convert to Islam. If they did so, he would spare their lives. To a person, they refused. On August 14, 1480, all 813 residents were marched to a nearby hillside and beheaded. Today, their bones and skulls are stacked and displayed in a glass case behind the altar in the Cappella dei Martiri (Chapel of the Martyrs). In 1771, a papal decree beatified the 813 individ- uals, and in 2013 they were col- lectively granted sainthood. The ossuary is a somber site but a more upbeat counterpoint lies just outside the chapel in the cathedral's nave. There, a sprawling mosaic floor celebrat- ing life in all its various forms covers the church's central aisle. It is one of the largest mosaics in Europe, stretching for more than 50 feet. The primitive artistic style is the work of a 12th-centu- ry monk called Pantaleone who spent years designing and laying the individual stones. The overall theme is the Tree of Life; within its branches are depictions of animals real and invented, individuals common and royal, and events biblical and historical. There are render- ings of elephants , lions and griffins. Biblical stories are illustrated, including Noah's Ark and Cain and Abel. Ordinary cit- izens appear as do famous fig- ures, such as King Arthur and Alexander the Great. Many art historians have compared the richness and historical signifi- cance of Otranto's mosaic floor to the more famous mos aics found in the northern city of Ravenna. During the Turkish siege, the cathedral was badly damaged. It was used as a mosque and then a stable. Eventually, its rose win- dow and some of its 12th-centu- ry frescoes were restored, along with the Tree of Life mosaic. For ex-English majors, the name of Otranto will likely ring a bell, thanks to Horace Wal- pole's book, The Cas tle of Otranto, published in 1764 and generally regarded as the first Gothic novel. Although the title and setting are borrowed from Otranto not much else in the book bears a resemblance to reality – at least on the day I vis- ited there were no mysterious knights, gloomy ghosts or ladies in distress. That said, the pentagonal- shaped castle of Otranto with its three remaining watch towers is definitely worth a visit. Known officially as Castello Aragonese, the current building dates from the 15th century, although it was built on the site of an earlier fortress. There are some artifacts on display, such as cannon balls and large stone markers, and the space is often used for art instal- lations. Other attractions worth seeing nearby include the small Church of San Pietro, famous for its Byzantine art, and the Church of the Madonna of the Altomare with a mosaic floor and décor that recall the town's seafaring tradition. The monastery of San Nicola di Casole, now in ruins, is a few miles south of Otranto. Built in 1098, its monks spent years pre- serving numerous volumes of Latin and Greek, making this one of the richest libraries in Europe at the time. The monastery also served as a learning center where the monks hosted students from all over the continent. Unfortu- nately, the monas tery w as des troyed in 1480 w hen the Turks overran the city. Otranto is still an active port with a fishing fleet and ferry ser- vice to Greece. Although most of its 5.700 residents live in the new er s ection of tow n, the town's historic atmosphere can still be experienced through its intricate web of twisting lanes, thick perimeter stone walls and white-washed homes. Sidewalk cafés and eateries on top of the ramparts ensure stunning views of the harbor and the sea. Otranto is an easy day trip from Lecce via a secondary train service operated by Ferrovie Sud Est (FSE). The 29-mile trip takes about an hour and from Otran- to's railway station, it's a quick walk to the center of town. RITA CIPALLA Otranto at sunset: a beautiful corner of Puglia LIFE PEOPLE MOVIES MUSIC BOOKS Picturesque Otranto: the Far East of Italy

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