L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 22, 2019 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE news over a bowl of savory rigatoni. If it's fairly safe to say, then, that pasta wasn't invented in Italy, how has it developed into the one food that passionately embodies Italian cuisine and cul- ture? A look back at the afore- mentioned Arab introduction of noodles holds the answer. Though Arab culinary influ- ence was a part of the Sicilian scenery from the 8th century onward, not much changed until the 12th century, when durum wheat made its first known appearance. Necessary for pro- ducing a pasta that is sturdy enough to be stretched paper- thin, dry without cracking, and stand up to boiling yet retain a pleasing texture and taste, the availability of durum wheat was a definite game changer. Sicily and southern Italy's sunny climate combined with hot, dry volcanic air and cooling sea breezes proved ideal for culti- vation of this wheat…and for the new-fangled technique of drying pasta introduced by the Arabs. From Sicily into Campania and onwards to Naples, the elegantly simple combination of durum wheat and water developed into a robust pasta industry with com- mercial production recorded as far back as the 1400s. Though popular, pasta was still considered the food of aristo- crats and unheard of on a peas- ant's plate other than for bits and scraps tossed in soups. Why so? Simply put…labor costs. Tough- as-nails durum wheat had to be pounded endlessly and coaxed into particles delicate enough for creating a dough. Barefoot labor- ers put feet to dough, sometimes for days, stomping it into submis- sion to be then rolled into sheets. Once suitable, the dough was muscled into presses powered by man and beast as the final prod- uct was extruded under great pressure. Overlaid with Arab- influenced sauces combining spicy, sweet, and savory flavors, the rich filled their bellies with the delectable results of this labo- rious process. All that changed, however, when mechanical production of pasta came about in Naples in the 1600s. Times were hard, meat and produce were scarce, but wheat was not. Pasta shops blos- somed throughout southern Italy. Neapolitans became known as "mangia-maccheroni" – macaroni eaters – who famously shoveled handfuls of noodles from plate to mouth. This new era of easy- access pasta spread quickly throughout Italy. From 1700 to 1785 in Naples alone, pasta shops grew from 60 to 280. Though it's hard to imagine pasta minus its sidekick of a savory tomato sauce, this cou- pling didn't occur until around 1839 when the first documented recipe appeared. Due to yet another wave of economic hard times, the red fruit once thought to be poisonous was now eaten out of desperation…and oh, the delicious consequence we enjoy because of it! The perfect grow- ing conditions of southern Italy made easy access to abundant fresh produce, and when com- bined with Italian culinary inge- nuity, a wealth of our favorite sauces and pasta dishes came to life. Even though Italians can't lay claim to its invention, they can unequivocally claim ownership of Italy's love affair with pasta and how it is eaten today every- where in the world, with 84 per- cent of people worldwide claim- ing they like Italian food! The average Italian consumes 60 pounds of pasta each year – enough spaghetti to wind around the world about 15.000 times. The verve, passion, and superior quality so intricately a part of Italian food culture lives mightily in pasta; this love affair looks to last forever. Viva la pasta! Continued from page 12 Proud of making fresh pasta! A real Italian tradition, with a history dating back centuries © Lorenzo Daloiso | Dreamstime.com Even if the advent of mechanical production reduced the amount of pasta made by hand, many still love to do it

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