L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2019 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE O h the delights of Christmas in an Italian village with all its endearing traditions! Twin- kling lights, carols floating on air, the revered nativity crèche, spiced aromas of mulled wine tickling your nose…so much to delight the senses and wrap you up in a warm hug of Christmas happiness! Holiday visitors to almost every town in Italy can count on sugary sweet memories being made in these winter wonder- lands. But be warned! If you happen to find yourself some- where in the northern reaches of Italy, you might be in for an unexpected fright. Each December 6th brings the observance of St. Nicholas Day throughout Italy, with var- ied traditions of celebration unfolding from one end of the country to the other. Observances in German-influ- enced Northern provinces such as Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia include post-card perfect markets and almost always a lively parade featuring the jolly ol' saint him- self… and one other character that can turn those dreams of a white Christmas into a run-for- your-life nightmare. It's time for the traditional Krampuslauf Parade – literally the Krampus Run – and the appearance of an other-worldly figure known as the Krampus. In towns such as Castelrotto and Dobbiaco, the spectacle begins to unfold on the evening of December 5 th , known as Krampusnacht – Krampus Night. As late day dissolves into twilight, devilish figures begin to appear, wandering, mingling in increasing numbers within the market and streets. Their lurking bodies are clothed in Barbarian- inspired fur garments, and for now, their human features vanish behind ghoulish fanged masks topped with spiraling horns. These Kastelruther Tuifl, human devils, seem to overtake the town, peacefully at least for the momenet, as they gather in preparation for the evening's parade. As night falls, the townsfolk line the streets, ready for what awaits. The glow of approaching torches rises over the crowds; menacing growls, hoots, yells, and the sounds of clanging chains and bells grow louder and louder as a legion of Krampus' descend helter-skelter down the main thoroughfare. And surpris- ingly so, at least for someone new to the spectacle, a grandfa- therly red and white robed St. Nicholas leads the way. Like oil and water, the tradi- tions of St. Nicholas and Krampus just don't seem to mesh. So how did this menacing beast find a right-hand position alongside the kind, benevolent saint? No one knows for certain the origins of the Krampus, but most probably he was a central figure in pre-Christian era pagan dramas centered around the dark spirits of winter. Along the way, his persona was adopted into the storyline of St. Nicholas, per- haps fulfilling the role of the malevolent balancing the benev- olent. Krampus' more recent job description casts him as the antagonist in the good-versus- bad child's saga of the season. While St. Nicholas bestows gifts upon the wee ones who've behaved well enough during the year, Krampus picks up the slack for the not so well- behaved. Lumps of coal for gifts, lashes with birch straps, even kidnapping with threats of never being seen again loom as motivators to stay on the good list. Even with the harrowing appearance of all those who slip into the role of Krampus, festivi- ties remain lighthearted; most children today delight in the tem- porary frights of the Christmastime beast. Despite the persona of Krampus having ancient roots, Krampus Runs are a fairly recent phenomenon, even if the tradition of his participation in Yuletide celebrations is long- standing. And tradition is key to the continuation of these celebra- tions. Die Kastelruther Tuifl, an association formed in 2011, plays a big part in supporting K rampuslauf events. Membership is small but grow- ing, and an 18-and-under branch was recently formed to support and encourage the interest of youth. As Markus Rauch, an association member, explains, "…this is our final goal – pass- ing tradition on to the new gener- ations." Integral to preserving the tra- dition are the costumes; each Krampus outfit is unique. Distinctive styles of horns, color or type of fur, even the manner of chains or sticks used to scare the crowds are individual works of creativity. Masks are intricate- ly hand carved from wood, each a unique work of art that is con- sidered an heirloom to be passed on to the next generation, horri- fying effects and all. And as pho- tos will attest, the scarier and more hellish, the better. The largest Krampus Run in Italy takes place in Dobbiaco, a quaint Alpine village located in South Tyrol – Alto Adige, known as the "Gateway to the Dolomites." Nestled in the fertile valley beneath Italy's famous Tre Cime peaks, the tranquil serenity of this idyllic hamlet erupts into a fiery netherworld each St. Nicholas Eve. As many as 600 Krampus swarm the small town, careening and cavorting as they seemingly spill from the mountainsides to mischievously menace and intimidate. A num- ber of the participating Krampus characters come from neighbor- ing Switzerland, Austria, and even Slovenia, as well as other areas of northern Italy. Collective groups often include a uniqueness to their costumes that identifies their origin such as a particular style of horns or fur combinations. These days, every Krampus is also required to be registered and wear a number. Word has it that parades in days past got a little too devilish — this method provides healthy accountability! Most towns that host a Krampus Run find ways to con- tinue the merriment after the parade. Warm tents serve as nests of ongoing Krampus mis- chief while townsfolks dance the dark winter spirits away. Frightful, possibly even a bit unsettling, the beastly demons live on as a beloved tradition in these parts. Just be sure you find yourself on St. Nicholas' good list…or else! PAULA REYNOLDS Various expressions of the Krampus: a mythical figure of Northern Italian Christmas tradition, that originates in the legends surrounding Saint Nicho- las (Copyright: Dreamstime) Northern Italy's Krampus runs: the devilish parades of Yuletide

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