L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 19, 2020 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano confusing. Don't forget to d r i z z l e P i e d m o n t ' s b i t t e r chestnut honey over a hunk to create the perfect trifecta of savory, pungent, sweet. P i e d m o n t ' s a n t i p a s t i menus include the regional a r r a y o f g o s s a m e r - t h i n s l i c e d m e a t s , b u t w h e n a local thinks "carne" for a starter, the possibilities tra- verse the boundaries of tra- d i t i o n a l s l i c e d s a l u m e . Perhaps you're in the mood f o r V i t e l l o t o n n a t o , p a p e r y - t h i n s l i c e d v e a l paired with tuna and caper infused mayonnaise. Or pos- sibly the stout combination of organ meats and mush- rooms united by marsala, vinegar, and garlic known as F i n a n z i e r a c h a s e d b y a nibble of Piemontese salume created from a mash-up of pork, goose, beef, and even trout. Raw mixture of veal meat served with extra vir- gin olive oil, and a dash of salt and pepper – carne cruda — is also a common a p p e t i t e w h e t t e r a t t h e table. PRIMI Y o u r f u l l y p r i m e d a n d ready palate awaits an intro- duction to Piedmont's most f a m o u s v a r i e t y o f p a s t a : t a j a r i n . T h e n o r t h e r n cousin of tagliatelle, these thin, saffron-colored rib- bons stand apart from any other Italian pasta due to their high egg content. In fact, only the yolks are used. I think we can vouch for a Piemontese preference for rich foods! The hearty noo- dles stand up well to a bath of butter and sage or swim- ming about in a scrumptious meat sauce. If you'd prefer to be fooled into thinking you're eating lighter, ask for Agnolotti al plin. These delicately petite ravioli filled w i t h m e a t , v e g e t a b l e s o r c h e e s e a r e h a n d m a d e b y fare il plin — pinching out pockets from two sheets of golden pasta. Douse with a d e l e c t a b l e b u t t e r s a u c e … buonissimi! Come October, these and almost any other eatable product can be dust- ed in white truffle should your heart desire…and your pocketbook be able to han- dle it. SECONDI G a s t r o n o m i c p a r a d i s e c o n t i n u e s i n t o t h e m a i n course. Perhaps the most memorable of dishes in my mind would be the melt-in- y o u r - m o u t h , s a v o r y r i c h B r a s a t o a l B a r o l o / B a r b a r e s c o – veal sim- m e r e d f o r e t e r n i t y i n Piedmont's famous wines and delicately seasoned with j u n i p e r b e r r i e s ( a m u s t ) . Ladle a healthy portion over steamy, creamy polenta and alas…meat-lover's heaven. Coniglio, or rabbit, is often s e r v e d t h i s w a y , a s w e l l . Another celebrated secondo is Bollito misto – a combi- nation of meats and vegeta- b l e s b o i l e d f o r h o u r s t o reach fork-ready tenderness. As if there's no in-between, other popular meat dishes a r e s e r v e d c r u d i , o r r a w . Why bother with "medium," I suppose! DOLCE But what about contorni – the side dishes? Like tak- ing your cousin to the prom, these seem to be enjoyed if you must, but not greatly missed if skipped – not only in Piedmont, but through- out Italy. Nothing to see… move along. But oh yes…the dolce… the sweet end to a fabulous d i n n e r P i e d m o n t s t y l e ! P l e a s i n g l y s o , t h e Piemontese menu has found its way past the usual torta or gelato or tiramisù. Meet Bonèt. This velvety choco- late and hazelnut custard is baked to perfection atop a caramel foundation, then plated bottom's up with a d o l l o p o f f r e s h w h i p p e d cream. It will live on in your d r e a m s . Z a b a i o n e i s another crowd-pleasing cus- tard concocted with Marsala wine and a decadent num- ber of egg yolks. If those fall short in the richness depart- ment, stick your fork into a slice of Torta Gianduia, a c a k e m a d e f r o m g r o u n d nuts (no flour), chocolate, butter, and definitely a few tablespoons of magic. Italy is full, over-flowin- gly so, with what I consider to be the world's grandest food and wine. Push com- placency aside if thinking you've discovered the best in any given region. Piedmont awaits. A plate of vitello tonnato, a traditional antipasto from Piemonte, which is usually served a tad thinner than what shown in the photo! (Photo: Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE Continued from page 20 Zabaione is heartwarming and sweet, while a good glass of Dolcetto - typical of Piemonte - is bound to make you feel better about everything! (Photo: Dreamstime)

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