L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2020 L'Italo-Americano t e c t e d b y a r i v e r , t h e Dragone, that legends say used to be home to a fire spitting dragon. Walking in its winding alleys brings to m i n d a g a m e o f h i d e a n d seek, with arches and minu- s c u l e p i a z z a s a p p e a r i n g around every corner ,and y o u m a y b e s u r p r i s e d t o k n o w t h a t A t r a n i i s a l s o very lively when it comes to its nightlife, especially on New Year's Eve. F o r t h o s e w h o e n j o y history and architecture, a short walk uphill will lead to the church of Santa Maria Maddalena, built in the 13th century by the Atranesi t o h o n o r a n d t h a n k t h e Virgin, who had protected them and eventually freed them from Saracens' incur- sions; its maiolica dome and its belfry are, perhaps, the most recognizable features of the village. Just beside it, you'll find the Grotta di Masaniello: h e r e , t r a d i t i o n s a y s , t h e famous Neapolitan leader w h o f o u g h t a g a i n s t t h e H a p s b u r g d o m i n i o n o n Naples, had found refuge w h i l e e s c a p i n g f r o m t h e Viceroy and his army. As the grotto was believed to b e n e a r M a s a n i e l l o ' s mother's home, the implica- tion is that he was originally itself, in a style typical of the early Christian hermits, which still survived in those centuries. It is called "dei S a n t i " b e c a u s e t h e Byzantine style frescoes that ornate its walls represent s e v e r a l s a i n t l y f i g u r e s , including a warrior saint believed to be saint George. Today, the grotto magically opens on to a lemon grove, an extension of beauty and peace to what embodies an early representation of spi- rituality and one of the ear- liest examples of Medieval v i s u a l a r t s o f t h e w h o l e Costiera Amalfitana. And this is Atrani, Italy's smallest village. Forgotten by the masses, blessed by beauty and tranquillity, in one of the most charming c o r n e r s o f t h e B e l p a e s e . P e r h a p s , b e i n g o n t h e Costiera — and so close to Amalfi — let Atrani's under- from Atrani. Just above the street con- necting Atrani to Amalfi, you'll find the Grotta dei Santi (the Saints' Grotto) w h i c h w a s , o n c e u p o n a time, part of a monastery dedicated to Saint Ciriaco and Saint Judith, which no longer exists. It was proba- bly built sometimes in the 10th century, as attested by p a p a l d o c u m e n t s , a n d i t developed around the grotto stated beauty go unnoticed and who knows, in this day and age, where the brazen is often more appreciated that then quiet, it may continue to be so. But what a jewel it is, to the eyes of those who understand beauty, just like it is to Enzo del Pizzo, a c o n t e m p o r a r y l o c a l p o e t , who wrote that Atrani è nu P r e s e p i o : a s s i m p l e a n d beautiful as a Neapolitan Nativity. A picturesque square in Atrani (Photo: Benkrut/Dreamstime) Continued from page 8 The Church of San Salvatore de Birecto, in Atrani (Photo: Prosiaczeq/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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