THURSDAY, MARCH 18, 2021
www.italoamericano.org
28
L'Italo-Americano
E
a s t e r i s c o n -
nected with the
rites of re-birth
a n d f e r t i l i t y
w h i c h , i n
ancient times, were cele-
brated around the Spring
equinox. In my hometown
of Perugia, we celebrate
Easter with a rustic cake
called Ciaramicola . In
t h e p a s t , y o u n g w o m e n
made it for their fiancés as
an Easter gift. The cake is
highly symbolic of roman-
t i c l o v e : a n i m m a c u l a t e
meringue conceals a red-
hot heart.
As with most Umbrian
c a k e s , i t w a s b a s e d o n
s w e e t e n e d b r e a d d o u g h
e n r i c h e d w i t h e g g s a n d
lard. The startling scarlet
was obtained with a splash
of an herbal liqueur (alk-
e r m e s or a l c h e r m e s ),
originally used as a heart
tonic. As detailed in 1653
by Culpeper's Complete
H e r b a l a n d E n g l i s h
Physician, the recipe for
alchermes included apple
juice, rosewater, raw silk,
ambergris, pearls, cinna-
mon, gold leaf, two pounds
of mysterious berries, and
carmine pigment from the
kermes, a tiny insect. How
w e l l s u i t e d t h i s w a s t o
Umbria' s fierce medieval
legacy!
For the cake:
• 400 g (31/4 cups) all
p u r p o s e f l o u r o r s t o n e -
ground type 1
• 2 whole eggs
• 2 egg yolks
• 220 g (1 cup and 11/2
tablespoons) white sugar
• 180 g (13 tablespoons)
butter
• g r a t e d z e s t o f 1 / 2
orange or
lemon
• 1/2 teaspoon powder
cinnamon
• 3 tablespoons alcher-
mes or dessert wine
• 6 tablespoons milk or
red fruit juice
• 16 g (4 teaspoons) bak-
ing powder
F o r t h e I t a l i a n
meringue topping:
• 120 g (1/2 cup and 2
tablespoons) white sugar
• 2 egg whites at room
temperature
• 2 tablespoons of lemon
LETIZIA MATTIACCI
Ciaramicola, with its beautiful italian merengue topping (Photo: Tea de Jong)
Continued to page 30
Ciaramicola, an Umbrian Easter love cake
LA BUONA TAVOLA
RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES
