L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 29, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano T he engine idles to o f f , y o u r f e e t s w i n g o n t o t h e dirty parking lot. A scan of the sur- roundings isn't too impres- sive. An elusive sign or two guide you to the path… Cas- cate del Mulino this way, they say. The walk is short, the egg-like aroma of sulfur wafts through the air, tickling the nostrils as you draw clos- er. A few more steps, the rounding of a corner and, s u d d e n l y , a d r e a m s c a p e p e e k s t h r o u g h t h e r i s i n g steam -- enchanting white t r a v e r t i n e p o o l s c r a d l i n g aquamarine thermal waters that seem to beg you to step into their warm caress. The mineral rich Cascate d e l M u l i n o ( T h e M i l l Waterfalls) , more com- m o n l y r e f e r r e d t o a s j u s t Saturnia, are located a few kilometers from the small vil- lage of Saturnia, in Tuscany's Maremma area. For at least three thousand years, these w a t e r s h a v e a w e d a n d delighted visitors, perhaps qualifying as one of Italy's oldest tourist attractions. Legend explains their pres- ence as the result of a tiff between Jupiter and Saturn. As they squabbled over the n e v e r - e n d i n g w a r r i n g o f h u m a n s , J u p i t e r b e c a m e exasperated and hurled a thunderbolt towards Saturn (or was it the humans? -- depends on who's telling the tale!). His aim was less than accurate evidently, but quite good fortune for all of us mere mortals. The gaping hole created by the errant bolt allowed these other- worldly waters to spill forth, c r e a t i n g j u s t t h e k i n d o f calming experience needed here on earth…then and now. B u r b l i n g a n d c h u r n i n g upwards from subterranean depths, these thermal waters originate beneath Mount Amiata, Tuscany's dormant volcano. The healthy flow of 211 gallons a second is in no hurry as it meanders under- ground, filtering through micro-fissures in the rocks b e f o r e r e a c h i n g t h e h o t springs of Saturnia -- a jour- ney taking a full 40 years from Amiata to the springs. A shorter (and much quicker) course leads the waters from the hot springs over rolling meadows before it reaches t h e a p e x o f t h e f a l l s . Overseen by an age-old mill- house that appears added for scenic effect, the milky 98F- degree water is escorted by billowing furls of steam as it tumbles over the small crest of the falls. Minerals such as sulfur, sulfate, bicarbonate, and carbon infuse the water, a l o n g w i t h t w o g a s s e s – hydrogen sulfide and carbon dioxide. This god-divined concoction not only feels great to soak in but is sought for its healing properties, too. The therapeutic minerals can also be credited for the surre- al beauty fashioned by the perfectly formed travertine pools that capture the flow on its journey downward. Laid out with exquisite func- tional and esthetic design, these natural pools are con- stantly refreshed with warm waters, their appearance a cerulean blue that seems illu- minated from within. U n l i k e m a n y n a t u r a l attractions, the falls remain free and open to the public 24/7 and year-round. A stark example of extremes, the b e a u t y o f S a t u r n i a i s unequivocally some of the world's finest, yet the ameni- ties of creature comfort are practically zero. While parking is free, it's l i m i t e d a n d u n l i t . Tenderfoots, and even regu- lar-foots, will be grateful for some sort of water shoe to navigate the dirt path to the falls, as well as amongst the pools themselves. A bit slip- pery and cobbled with amaz- ing little pearl-like mineral formations, the bottom of the pools can be a tad hazardous. And don't assume you can rely on any man-made addi- tions such as rails or steps. As is the norm throughout m u c h o f E u r o p e , o n e c a n throw Victorian-esque body shame out the window; there are no changing rooms and many just drop their drawers to don a swimsuit standing b e t w e e n o p e n c a r d o o r s . When in Rome, as they say. Packing a picnic is a good idea since the only nearby snack stand located adjacent t h e p a r k i n g l o t o p e r a t e s unpredictably. Enjoying your selection of a lush Tuscan wine and pungent Pecorino in this setting becomes prac- tically spiritual. Well worth a minor incon- venience or two, the sensory PAULA REYNOLDS experience found at the falls is rated by many as one of the best in the world. After a luxurious soak surrounded by the enchanting beauty of the terraced pools, the rum- bling song of the falls, and t h e d e l i g h t s o f a n a t u r a l Tuscan countryside, you'll be thanking Jupiter for that e r r a n t t h u n d e r b o l t g o n e astray! While the trappings of a spectacular natural outdoor spa fit the bill for many, oth- ers might prefer to take the waters in a more opulent set- t i n g . N e a r b y a w a i t s t h e Terme di Saturnia, a first- class spa resort situated at the source of the thermal waters. The spring-fed baths here have been in use almost continuously since at least Etruscan times, revered for their restorative properties. Even today, a retreat at the spa brings not only cushy relaxation, but beneficial therapies for skin issues, blood pressure, respiratory conditions, and cardiac func- tion. In fact, Italy is one of a very few countries that pro- vide medical prescriptions for time spent at a thermal spa such as this! T h e n e a r b y t o w n o f Saturnia is worthy of a stop before or after a lingering soak in the waters. Ancient even by Italian standards, Saturnia shows evidence of h a b i t a t i o n b y N e o l i t h i c t r i b e s , w i t h G r e e k a n d Etruscan peoples following in line before Roman occupa- tion. A beautiful Roman gate, the Porta Romana, with ori- gins in the 2 nd century BC s t i l l s t a n d s p r o u d l y i n Saturnia, quietly watching the comings and goings of l i f e o v e r t h e c e n t u r i e s . Wagon wheel ruts run along t h e s m o o t h d a r k s t o n e , speaking quiet tales of life long ago. A medieval church and mostly intact protective walls are still present, await- ing appreciation from those who will pause long enough t o r e g a r d a n d p o n d e r . D i s c e r n a b l e r e m a i n s o f a Roman bath sit outside one of the village's restaurants, t h e m o s a i c a r t w o r k s t i l l mostly visible as a reminder of grander times. And per- haps a reminder, an ageless nudge to those passing by… go take the waters, my friend. Relaxing at the Cascate del Mulino of Saturnia (Photo: Frank Bach/Dreamstime) Italy's enchanted Cascate del Mulino – the thermal falls of Saturnia ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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