THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2021
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28
L'Italo-Americano
W
hile com-
m o n
b e a n s
originally
c o m e
from the Americas, broad
beans (fava) have been a
staple of European cuisine
for thousands of years. In
addition to their importance
as a food crop, fava beans
were considered sacred in
ancient Greece and Rome.
In the Roman calendar,
May was marked by the joy-
ous Spring festival of the
Floralia. During the Spring
c e l e b r a t i o n s , f a v a s w e r e
thrown into the crowds as a
symbol of fertility. On the 1st
of June, a dish of mashed
beans and lard was offered
t o t h e g o d d e s s C a r n a ,
guardian of the heart and
vital organs. Eating this dish
on that very day was said to
protect one's internal organs
a n d b r i n g h e a l t h f o r t h e
coming year.
The importance of broad
beans has endured for mil-
l e n n i a . I n 1 1 t h c e n t u r y
France, Ulrich of Zell, abbot
of Cluny Abbey, directed the
preparation of fava beans.
C l u n y A b b e y w a s t h e
wealthiest and most influen-
tial religious institution of its
time. In the Book of Rule of
the monastery, Ulrich dictat-
ed in great detail how monks
had to wash, cook, shell and
flavor the fava beans with
pork fat. The monks were
n o t a l l o w e d t o l e a v e t h e
kitchen during this process,
not even to go to Mass. Nor
were they permitted to taste
the results of their efforts.
Umbrians are fond of
broad beans. Crates full of
t h e l o n g g r e e n p o d s
announce the beginning of
spring in the markets. When
they are still young and ten-
der, there is no need to shell
the beans. In Umbria we eat
the young fave fresh, just out
of the pod, accompanied by
a slice of young pecorino
c h e e s e a n d a g l a s s o f r e d
wine. It's great picnic food to
c e l e b r a t e t h e f i r s t s u n n y
days of spring.
Ingredients (serves 2):
2 0 0 g ( 7 o z ) f r e s h e g g
pasta
1 cup broad beans (fava
LETIZIA MATTIACCI
This delicious dish includes broad beans (fave) which are a typical ingredient of Umbrian cuisine (Photo courtesy of Letizia Mattiacci)
Continued to page 30
Pasta with almond, basil and broad beans
LA BUONA TAVOLA
RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES
