L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2021 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano W e d o n ' t o f t e n t h i n k about it, but me- ats also have seasons. Just as lamb is a talisman of the spring, autumn and early winter is pork season. In the days before freezers, it w a s t h e t i m e o f t h e y e a r when pigs were traditionally s l a u g h t e r e d . T h e c o l d e r weather acted as a natural preservative for the huge quantities of meat that the animal would yield. Many dishes traditionally served at this time of year were originally devised to u s e u p t h e w h o l e h o g — especially the more perish- able bits—before spoilage set in. Today we're taking a look at a dish that fits well t h i s t r a d i t i o n , S o f f r i t t o Napoletano, or o'suffritt' in dialect. It uses a variety of different pork innards, soaked at length to remove FRANK FARIELLO any gaminess, then sautéed in lard and finally braised in a robust and spicy toma- to sauce scented with chili p e p p e r s a n d h e r b s . T h i s hearty dish is a fixture in N e a p o l i t a n c u i s i n e s t i l l today, available ready-made in pork stores all over town. Elsewhere you'll need to make it yourself, but fortu- nately Soffritto Napoletano is extremely simple to make i f a b i t t i m e - c o n s u m i n g . And the taste is out of this world, reminiscent in a way of the classic Neapolitan ragù, albeit with a stronger f l a v o r , a s b e f i t s i t s n i c k - n a m e z u p p a f o r t e , o r " s t r o n g s o u p . " Y o u c a n e n j o y i t a s a s t e w , w i t h some crusty bread, or as a c h u n k y s a u c e f o r p a s t a . Either way, I think it's deli- cious. If you're an adventur- ous eater, do give it a try. And even if you're not, do think about it. This tasty stew might even win over s o m e s k e p t i c s o f o r g a n meats. Ingredients Serves 4-6 1 . 5 - 2 k i l o s ( 3 t o 4 l b s ) pork innards 1 - 2 r e d c h i l i p e p p e r s , preferably fresh 1-2 bay leaves 1 sprig of fresh rosemary R e d w i n e , a b o u t 125ml/1/2 cup 250g (8 oz) tomato paste, more or less 100g (3-1/2 oz lard) Salt and pepper Directions Cut the innards into bite- sized chunks, trimming any gristle as you go. Place the cut-up innards in a large bowl and cover w i t h w a t e r . L e t s o a k f o r about two hours, changing the water from time to time u n t i l i t r u n s c l e a r . D r a i n well and let air dry for a few m i n u t e s , t h e n f i n i s h o f f with paper towels. Heat the lard in a large pot. When it's hot, add the innards. The innards will turn color and then exude their liquid. Keep on sim- mering, stirring from time to time, until the liquid has evaporated and you begin to hear sizzling. Continue to sauté until the pieces begin to brown. Add the chili pepper, bay leaf, and rosemary and give the pot a stir. Sauté for a m i n u t e o r s o m o r e , u n t i l you can smell the aromat- ics. Add a good pour of red wine and let it evaporate. Then add the tomato paste, which you will have loos- e n e d w i t h a g l a s s f u l o f water, giving everything a stir. More water can go in if need be, so the liquid just covers the pork pieces. Lower the heat and cover the pot. Let everything sim- mer very gently for two to three hours, until the pork pieces are fork-tender and the sauce dark, unctuous and flavorful. S e r v e h o t , w i t h c r u s t y b r e a d . O r a s a s a u c e f o r pasta. F r a n k F a r i e l l o i s a n i n t e r n a t i o n a l l a w y e r b y day, but when he gets home at night, he likes nothing better than to cook. He's always loved to cook, ever s i n c e h e w a s b a r e l y t a l l enough to peer over the top o f a s t o v e . H e s a y s t h a t " C o o k i n g i s t h e b e s t w a y I k n o w t o u n w i n d f r o m a s t r e s s f u l d a y ' s w o r k . A n d s h a r i n g t h e dishes I make is a profound way to connect with friends and loved ones." Soffritto Napoletano with pasta. This dish can be enjoyed on its own with bread, or as a sauce (Photo: Giuseppe Parisi/Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Neapolitan soffritto, the rich flavor of the Campania tradition

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