L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, APRIL 21, 2022 L'Italo-Americano ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES E n s c o n c e d o n a rocky base at the foothills of the A p e n n i n e s , a strikingly pecu- liar castle rises over the Emil- ia-Romagna countryside. You won't find the usual architec- tural suspects adorning this eclectic castle, but instead an array of gilded onion domes, spindly rows of minarets, and an assemblage of European, E a s t e r n , M o o r i s h , a n d medieval styles that converge to create one of Italy's most unusual buildings. This strange castle, chris- tened La Rocchetta Mat- tei, was begun in 1850 atop the remains of what had been an important ancient Tuscan stronghold. Its unconven- tional creator, Count Cesare Mattei, envisioned a com- manding castle that would serve not only as his personal home but also as the perfect location for manufacturing and dispensing of his contro- v e r s i a l m e d i c i n a l c u r e s . Believing his rocky hilltop was rich with magnetic ener- gy that would enhance his cures, Mattei continuously added on to his castle until his demise in 1896. Whether he was that enamored with his creation or just an idio- syncratic fellow, the Count never left the Rocchetta dur- ing the last 20 years of his life. Cesare Mattei was the suc- cessor of a wealthy merchant f a m i l y . B e f o r e h e w a s 2 0 years of age, Mattei's father had passed, but not before m a k i n g s u r e h i s s o n h a d received a fine multi-disci- plined education. Intelligent a n d c u r i o u s , t h e y o u n g Cesare became a well-read scholar and scientist, a self- taught physician, a politician, and even found favor (and his title) with the Pope after a hefty donation of strategic land. The pivotal plot twist came when Mattei's mother passed after a long struggle with can- cer. Frustrated and despon- dent, the Count withdrew from all his former endeavors and began an intense quest for natural cures. The result: a new form of therapy known as electro-homeopathy. The Count believed that extract- ing "liquid vegetable electrici- ty" from plants, then distill- ing a tincture would cure disease by neutralizing nega- t i v e a n d p o s i t i v e c h a r g e s within the body. Traditional and even homeopathic prac- titioners of the era ridiculed the method, yet it caught on and spread across Europe and eventually the world. Truth often being stranger than fiction, tinctures were p r o d u c e d a n d s o l d u p t o 1969. Even now, there are electro-homeopathy organi- zations scattered across sev- eral continents. H i s m i s s i o n c l e a r , t h e Count began construction of what he fancied as a sort of sanitorium, a place to come and take the cure through electro-homeopathy. His tan- gible vision for the castle was as grandiose as his curative vision – he wanted the world to notice both. Even if initial construction favored a classic medieval stylization, Mattei soon diverged into a miscel- lany of masterful Moorish, Eastern, and gothic styles that evolved into perhaps the most peculiar castle in Italy. Throughout his 30 years residing and practicing in the castle, Mattei's presumptu- ous wishes continued to find life in innumerable additions. Nothing was too extravagant or flamboyant. Symbolism was excessive throughout the disjointed labyrinth of styles, a reflection of the Count's m y s t i c w a y o f s e e i n g t h e world. Upon entering the cas- tle, guests passed through a narrowed passage beneath statues representing good and evil, finally stepping into a sunlit courtyard. "Your cure is found here!", the Count seems to suggest. A round symbol placed on the main entrance is said to perfectly align with the sunrise on the morn of the summer solstice, one of many celestial symbols embedded throughout the castle. What seems as merely s h o w y d é c o r g o e s m u c h deeper, as well. Statues, carv- ings, frescoes, and even floor plans representing Christian, astrological, pagan, and Rosi- crucian symbolism are abun- dant throughout the struc- ture, all proclaiming Mattei's unorthodox views and con- cepts. C o u n t M a t t e i ' s d e a t h didn't end his mission. Hon- oring his father's wishes, Mattei's adopted son Mario Venturoli pressed on. Addi- t i o n s c o n t i n u e d ; w e a l t h y guests were still welcomed to sequester within the castle walls seeking cures; parties and gatherings were endless. Venturoli's death in 1937 marked the beginning of the downturn for the Rocchetta and its highly lucrative tinc- ture business. World War II brought further decline and a seeming coup de grace to Cesare Mattei's dynasty. Able t o a v o i d d e s t r u c t i o n b y bombing, the castle could not escape German occupation inside its walls. Looting, van- dalism, and burning of pre- cious furniture for warmth brought sad destruction to t h e u t o p i a n w o n d e r l a n d . Many years passed as the cas- tle fell into decay. But like the promises of Mattei's reme- dies, the castle found new life when all seemed lost. The Rocchetta Mattei was pur- chased by a Bolognese bank in 2005; finally, restoration began, and the doors opened once again in 2015. Mattei's Rochetta no longer offers cures, but definitely offers curiosities. Restoration of the entire castle is nowhere near com- pletion, yet what is available for tours is impressive. The main public areas stand refit- ted and reminiscent of their original glory. Guided tours lead guests up a stone stair- well through an elaborate Moorish archway. First stop – an awe-inspiring chapel, Mattei's scaled-down replica of Spain's Mosque-Cathe- dral of Cordoba. A mind- bending flow of black and white Moorish key-hole arch- ways lead skyward, punctuat- ed with frescoes and swirling embellishments. The features seem to merge and converge, defying the laws of physics — pleasing yet confusing the m o r t a l e y e m u c h l i k e a n Escher illustration. As was his wish, Mattei's body was laid to rest here at the central altar, resplendent with mysti- cal designs and inscriptions. A rather apropos burial for this self-made redeemer, one could say. The amazement continues inside Mattei's rendition of Spain's Lion Courtyard of Alhambra, its details rival- ing the real thing. A massive stone fountain featuring a cir- cle of lions keeps watch over intricately patterned tiled walls and floors. Keep walk- ing, however, to find yourself i n M a t t e i ' s " S a l a d e i Novanta" – his Room of the 90. Overseen by a huge stained-glass window featur- ing – who else – the Count, the grand hall was designed specifically to host Mattei's 9 0 t h b i r t h d a y p a r t y . H i s plan: 90 people of 90 years of age would fill the seats set for 90 guests, then celebrate through the night. What a shame that the Count missed the mark by just three years. D e s p i t e t h e m a j e s t i c appearance of the Rocchetta, much is an Oz-like illusion. Elaborately carved wood ceil- i n g s a r e , i n f a c t , n o t h i n g more than the skilled paint- ings of a trompe l'oeil artist. Gargantuan marble arches when closely inspected reveal no stone – just realistically painted wood. What appears to be handsomely carved geo- metric shapes exotically dec- orating certain ceilings are nothing more than painted papier-mâché. Throughout the magnificent Rocchetta M a t t e i m u c h i s n o t a s i t appears, but more a reality that exists through the eyes of the beholder. An odd coinci- dence…or the Count's last laugh? We'll never know. PAULA REYNOLDS Rocchetta Mattei castle, in Riola (Photo: Massimiliano Donati/Dreamstime) L a R o c c h e t t a M a t t e i : I t a l y ' s most bizarre castle?

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