L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, JUNE 2, 2022 www.italoam ericano.org 4 PAULA REYNOLDS NEWS & FEATURES TOP STORIES PEOPLE EVENTS E v e n i f y o u ' v e n e v e r b e e n to Tuscany , I bet you have a well-established " m i n d ' s e y e v i e w " o f i t thanks to the prolific num- ber of consumer goods that f e a t u r e i c o n i c T u s c a n images. Think cypress-lined lanes, undulating hills cov- ered in vineyards, fields of sunflowers, a villa crowning a majestic view…and their images on everything from kitchen calendars to bottle openers to cracker packages. Of course, there's good rea- son for that. With the abun- d a n c e o f d r e a m y s c e n i c views that make up this spe- cial region, Tuscany is unde- niably one of the most gor- geous places on earth. It can be easy to lose sight of what else Tuscany has to offer. Many are surprised to learn that, along with the e x p e c t e d i c o n i c e n c h a n t - m e n t , s o m e o f I t a l y ' s finest beaches are found along the Tuscan coastline. W i t h s u m m e r k n o c k i n g i m p a t i e n t l y o n t h e d o o r , what better time to learn a bit about this sometimes- o v e r l o o k e d s l i c e o f b e l l a Toscana. T u s c a n y ' s 1 4 3 m i l e s o f coastline lie cradled along the invitingly clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. You couldn't go wrong choosing a beach just about anywhere a l o n g t h i s s t r e t c h , b u t there's something unique a b o u t t h e c e n t r a l s p a n – the Etruscan Coast. The location is ideal. While close enough to major destina- tions such as Florence and Pisa, the beaches and other attractions still have that under-the-tourist-radar feel. Afterall, where else does one find an espresso and The David in the morning, fol- lowed by a relaxing after- noon Spritz on the beach? T h e E t r u s c a n C o a s t begins in Livorno and fol- lows a varied coastline of r o c k y p r o m e n a d e s , p i n e forests, beaches, and arche- ological sites culminating in Piombino. An array of out- door activities and sights a w a i t a l o n g t h e 5 5 - m i l e stretch of coastline, but let's get to the good stuff first – the beaches! And to their m e r i t , m a n y h a v e e a r n e d Blue Flag designations. The Costa degli Etruschi, as we call it in Italy, takes its name from the ancient and for-a-long-time mysterious Etruscan people, who inhab- ited Tuscany and parts of Emilia and Lazio between the 9 th and the 1 st century B C , w h e n t h e y w e r e c o n - quered by their feisty neigh- bors, the Romans. They are known for the refined beau- ty and elegance of their art, and for having been a rather tough cookie for the Romans to beat. This beautiful sliver o f T u s c a n y , c o c o o n e d between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the greenest hills you can think of, is filled with important Etruscan archae- ological sites, which bear witness to their ubiquitous presence here, back thou- sands of years ago. And this is why, we call it Etruscan Coast. L i v o r n o m a k e s a g r e a t s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r e x p l o - r a t i o n o f t h e E t r u s c a n C o a s t . A m e r e 5 6 m i l e s from Florence, it's an easy distance to manage either by train or car. Once there, however, a car is advisable for full freedom to trans- verse this beautiful section of Tuscan coast. A narrow- l a n e d r o a d c a l l e d t h e R o m i t o e s c o r t s d r i v e r s alongside craggy cliffs that overlook rocky beaches. The feel is wild and open here. Pull over for a beachside stop at either Quercianel- la or Calignaia, both free beaches and local favorites. Large rock layers spill into the crystalline sea as if flee- i n g f r o m t h e p i n e a n d Mediterranean scrub. Find a smooth boulder, the per- fect spot to bask seal-like before taking a dip. There's little sand to wiggle your t o e s i n h e r e , b u t b e t t e r opportunities of this sort await further along. Continuing southwardly, a day or two in Castiglion- c e l l o - " T h e P e a r l o f Tyrrhenian" – will reveal the charms and beauty that make this town a center for artistic events and escape for the wealthy. Hugged by red cliffs and aromatic pine forests, a hike downward to the Quercetano Beach is not for the faint-hearted. Once there, however, a fab- ulous arc of sandy beach, c l e a n w a t e r , a n d b e a c h clubs (as well as a free area) a r e t h e r e w a r d . I t w i l l quickly become evident why this was a favored spot for Fellini-era Italian filmmak- ers. If you want to take a dive in the Dolce Vita past of Quercetano, then take a look at Dino Risi's 1962 The Easy Life (Il Sorpasso, in Italian), starring Vittorio Gassman and Jean-Louis Tritignan, where views of t h e a r e a f i l l t h e s c r e e n throughout the movie. I f y o u r c u p o f t e a i s a livelier scene, set Cecina as a waypoint. Not to be con- f u s e d w i t h t h a t d e l i c i o u s flatbread cecìna, the beach- e s t h a t f r o n t C e c i n a a r e known for their eateries, beach clubs, people watch- i n g ( i n c l u d i n g a n u d e beach), and nightlife. Pine forests protect the area from strong winds, thus making f o r g r e a t s w i m m i n g a n d sunbathing along the wide expanse of sandy beaches. Pack a picnic lunch for a shady break under a pine, f o l l o w e d b y a l e i s u r e l y pisolino (nap), before clean- ing up for the disco! If you are more of a history buff, you'll be happy to know that there is an archaeological park not far from town, in the hamlet of San Vincenzi- no, where you can visit the r e m a i n s o f a n a n c i e n t Roman villa, built in the 1 st century BC and expanded between the 2 nd and 3 rd Continued to page 6 A view of Castiglioncello, on the Etruscan Coast of Tuscany (Photo: Stevanzz/Dreamstime) Under the Tuscan sun…on the beaches of the Etruscan Coast

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