L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, JULY 28, 2022 www.italoamericano.org 6 NEWS & FEATURES TOP STORIES PEOPLE EVENTS Continued from page 4 settling and cooling the val- leys and ravines. The per- fect amount of full hot sun mingles with the cool ocean air and rich volcanic soil – the result: optimal growing conditions for the exacting lemon trees. It's a symbiotic relation- ship with the hardworking local farmers, however, that creates bountiful harvests year after year. The ideal climate is critical, of course, but these trees would be out of luck if they tried to grow a s r e n e g a d e s a l o n g t h e steep, rugged cliffsides of t h e L a t t a r i M o u n t a i n s . What we see now as a scenic part of the coastline, the row upon row of terraced lemon trees that decorate endless mountainsides, are the results of hundreds of years of ongoing labors of l o v e . D u g i n t o t h e r o c k y mountainsides, reinforced w i t h s t u r d y s t o n e w a l l s , braced with pergolas made of chestnut poles to support the pregnant branches, and gracefully protected from h a i l a n d f r o s t b y p l a s t i c drapes, these terraced sky- g a r d e n s a r e t h e s a c r e d grounds of lemon produc- tion. Much of the labor is still done by hand. Pruning, weeding, daily tending of trees as old as 500 years produce two to three har- vests a year – all done by hand. While some growers have installed powered pul- ley carts to haul the lemons down, many others still rely u p o n t r a d i t i o n a l m e a n s such as fruit-filled hampers loaded on donkey backs or woven baskets carried by hand. It's easy to see why c u l t i v a t i o n h e r e i s o f t e n referred to as "agricultura eroica" …heroic agriculture. These are robust and pas- sionate people — perhaps that spirit somehow perme- ates these precious lemons and becomes part of their magic. A visit to Amalfi and the surrounding towns of the peninsula is a visual indul- gence. Chromatic Mediter- ranean landscapes and vis- t a s , b e a u t y a l m o s t t o o overwhelming to absorb fill every angle. Her lemons are of the same qualities – larger than life, sensual and allur- ing…and very tasty. While sight, smell, and sound bring Amalfi's many riches to life f o r u s m e r e m o r t a l s , i t ' s lemons that bring the added richness of taste. Interesting- l y s o , l e m o n s o n l y f o u n d their way to the palate as enjoyment sometime in the 18th century. Prior to that, their properties were seen as m e d i c i n a l ( t r e a t m e n t f o r scurvy, stomach ails, skin conditions) or as pleasing additions to a garden. Thank g o o d n e s s t i m e s h a v e changed! Today Amalfi is known for the wide variety of dishes featuring her special lemons. Most local menus s p o t l i g h t l e m o n - b a s e d seafood and meat dishes, as well as creamy pasta sauces, tantalizing salads, all kinds of desserts and candy, and that oh-so-marvelous diges- t i v o k n o w n as limoncello: in fact, over 60 percent of lemons pro- duced in this region are used f o r t h e p r o d u c t i o n o f t h e wildly popular spirit. Actually, let's spend some time in the kitchen... Among the most delicious and popu- lar lemon-based dishes, as we said, we must mention desserts. And how could we discuss dolci al limone with- out dedicating some words to delizia al limone and sor- betto? Sorbetto is a typical Italian dessert, the origins of which go back in time. The t r a d i t i o n o f m i x i n g s n o w and ice with flavorings to create something fresh and sweet to enjoy after the gar- g a n t u a n m e a l s t h e y w e r e known for, came already to t h e R o m a n s : i n d e e d , i t seems that Emperor Nero himself had snow from the Apennines brought to the capital so that it could be m i x e d w i t h h o n e y a n d a variety of flavors. But iced a n d l e m o n y s w e e t t r e a t s entered our tradition for real c e n t u r i e s l a t e r , d u r i n g the Arab conquest of Sici- ly: the ingenious and cul- tured Moors didn't only give us lemons but also reintro- duced to Italy the habit of enjoying icy treats, offering w h a t w a s t o b e c o m e t h e most quintessential of them a l l , t h e s o r b e t t o a l limone. The very word sor- b e t t o , i n f a c t , m a y c o m e f r o m t h e Arabic sherbeth or sherab, w h i c h t r a n s l a t e s a s " f r e s h drink." However, it was only in the 17th century that sor- betto al limone – and also other varieties of it – took t h e p e n i n s u l a b y s t o r m , thanks to the work of Sicil- ian Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli. If sorbetto has ancient and geographically varied origins, the amazing delizia al limone is 100% Amalfitan and 100% created to honor the Costiera's lemons. This fresh and flavorsome dessert – i t s n a m e t r a n s l a t e s a s "lemon delight" – is typical o f C a m p a n i a a n d , a s opposed to the ancient, his- torical roots of sorbetto, it has pretty recent origins. It w a s c r e a t e d j u s t o v e r 4 0 y e a r s a g o , i n 1 9 7 8 by Carmine Marzuillo, a baker from Positano, who wanted to pay tribute to his Costiera's lemons with a new dessert, made with a base of pan di Spagna (a light butter-free sponge), soaked in limoncello syrup, then filled and topped with lemon cream: fresh, decadent and, o f c o u r s e , d e l i z i o s a ! O n e naughty curiosity: because of its shape, which is remi- niscent of female breasts, it is also known as zizza della monaca, or "nun's breast"! Back on our side of the Atlantic, while a tipple of l i m o n c e l l o i s o n e w a y t o enjoy a taste of Amalfi on A m e r i c a n s o i l , b e w a r e o f low-quality products that add food coloring, flavoring, and may not even contain Amalfi lemons. Read that label and don't be a "limone spremuto" …someone totally taken advantage of! "A certified yellow star shines among the brilliant colors of the Amalfi coast…a sweet and juicy soul in a land to discover. The intense and exciting smell evokes t h e e m o t i o n s , m a g i c a n d colors of the Divine coast." – C o n s o r z i o d i T u t e l a Limone Costa d'Amalfi I.G.P. These lemons are famously "sweeter" than regular ones, which makes them perfect in several recipes Large in size, the lemon-drop yellow skin is typically smooth and rich in aromatic oils, while the interior flesh is extra juicy and mildly sweet. Their aroma is in and of itself a heady experience Amalfi lemons framing a slice of beautiful sea

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