L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2022 L'Italo-Americano C ars, motorcycles, and busses whiz a t b r e a k n e c k s p e e d o n t h e modern roadway that encircles this ancient town. Commerce is healthy here, just as it seems to always h a v e b e e n . E y e s d i v e r t , though, to a sea of emerald grass, a solid moat separating the road from a continuous stretch of forbearing massive walls – the acclaimed Mura di Lucca. Lucca's walls are a major source of pride for the Lucch- esi, a crowning visual that encircles the historic center. Walled cities aren't unusual in Italy, but unlike the majori- ty, the length and breadth of Lucca's defensive walls are fully intact. Once meant to keep others out, they now stand as the welcoming sen- tinels to all who wish to enter and discover one of Tuscany's most authentically preserved towns. The Apuan Alps run their course along Italy's eastern seaboard into Tuscany, slowly giving way to river-bottom flatlands – this is where you'll come upon Lucca. Strategical- ly positioned along the nearby Serchio River, the town's ori- gins are Etruscan. The same antiquated story played out here as with much of the Ital- ian peninsula – the expansive Roman Empire swallowed up existing civilizations, integrat- ing them and creating new city-states. As Lucca's position became more strategic, protective walls were erected in 180 BC t o d e f e n d t h e e x p a n d i n g town. Peace and prosperity held fast; a new wall was built in 118 AD to encircle the growing city, along with its additions of a fine Roman forum and amphitheater. The rest is not history, however - the story of Lucca's walls continues. Ongoing growth brought yet another expansion of the walls some- w h e r e a r o u n d 1 3 0 0 . Reformed in good medieval style, their tall and narrow build was perfect deflection for marauding foes and flying arrows, especially those from mighty Florence. The walls served well until 1504; gun- p o w d e r w a s n o w a m a j o r player in war games, along with the projectiles it pow- ered. The walls became vul- nerable: what to do but meet the then-modern challenge with a new type of structure? Lucca's walls would be short- ened and greatly thickened w i t h e a r t h t o a b s o r b t h e impact of cannon balls and bullets. Impressive bastions would be built to house the guards and store ammuni- tion, as well as give the citi- zens safe shelter. It was an undertaking of great scope: completion took 150 years. To quote a good song line - isn't it ironic…the impenetra- ble walls were never tested in battle! Lucca's status as a peaceful, independent repub- l i c h e l d f a s t d u e t o h e f t y wealth gained from a flour- ishing silk trade, along with advantageous connections with papal rulers. And today those walls still serve a mighty purpose, how- ever, it's the pursuit of happi- ness rather than the avoid- ance of peril. Thanks to a brief French rule (1799 – 1805), Lucca benefited from the philanthropic ideas of her a p p o i n t e d m i s t r e s s , N a p o l e o n ' s s i s t e r E l i s a . Despite some of the nega- tives of this era, Elisa took it u p o n h e r s e l f t o g e n t r i f y Lucca. Projects were initiated to build pathways and parks atop the broad expanse of the wall, along with other out- door spaces accessible to citi- zens. Elisa's improvements have been enjoyed ever since. A visit to Lucca almost begs to include exploring her impressive walls — on the seat of a bike is the perfect mode. The tree-lined thor- oughfare is spacious at 90 feet across with ample room to accommodate the large numbers of walkers, joggers, and bikers. A total distance of 2.6 miles for a full loop makes for great views over the old town, as well as of the outlying city and country- s i d e . E v e n i n t h e h o t t e s t m o n t h s , a c o o l b r e e z e refreshes along the mostly shaded passage. In fact, each quadrant of the wall features a different tree species that tower like guardians protect- ing those beneath. Guided tours on bike or on foot are a fun way to learn in-depth history, along with the back story to each of the wall's gates and the eleven dramat- i c b a s t i o n s . A n d o h w h a t beautiful parks are found on the outstretch of land over these bastions – quiet bench- es for watching the day go by, playgrounds, and swaths of cool grass just begging to host a blanket for a midday picnic. Lucca's flat topography is t h e p e r f e c t p a i r i n g f o r cycling. Once inside the his- toric center, it's immediately obvious that perhaps half her citizens make their way on bikes. And why not — it's economical, eco-friendly, and f i n d i n g a p a r k i n g s p a c e becomes a non-issue. For vis- itors, it's almost imperative to get thee to a bike rental s h o p , w h e t h e r f o r a f e w hours' rental or the duration o f t h e s t a y – i t ' s a g r e a t o p p o r t u n i t y t o l i v e l i k e a local! A leisurely spin around the w a l l s i s m e m o r a b l e ; o n e becomes a part of the flow, the moment. Bikes and small pedal-driven trollies ebb and flow with walkers and jog- g e r s , a l l i m m e r s e d i n thought, conversation, or laughter. If crowded, it can be a bit daunting at first, but soon the rhythm makes itself k n o w n . C o n v e n i e n t o f f - ramps into the old town allow exploration along the inviting s t r e e t s , m a n y l o o k i n g canyon-like nestled in the shadows between four and five-story historic buildings. At a comfortable pace, a bike seat view makes for fun sur- v e y i n g o f s h o p s , h o m e s , eateries, piazzas, churches, and people, along with a good introduction to the layout of the town. You'll encounter places that will call you back to park your bike and spend a little time. There are many, but a few favorites might include Piazza dell' Anfiteatro, the beautiful oval-shaped p i a z z a t h a t s i t s a t o p t h e ancient Roman amphithe- ater, which is prime for sip- ping wine and people-watch- ing. A stop at the Guinigi T o w e r ( 1 3 0 0 s ) – e a s y t o identify with the trees sprout- ing from its rooftop – makes for an interesting climb up the 233 steps for magnificent v i e w s . O n e o r s e v e r a l o f Lucca's magnificent churches might have caught your eye, especially the fabulous inlaid and carved marble façade of San Michele in Foro. Its ascending layers of intricately c a r v e d p i l l a r s m a k e f o r a good game of "I Spy" with the multitude of animals, scenes, and figures. And don't forget to explore Lucca's culinary delights to help refuel from all that bike riding. Farro s o u p , f a r i n a t a ( c h i c k p e a bread), tordelli Lucchesi, buccellato (a circular ancient sweet bread), necci (chestnut crepes hugging a rich ricotta center) and others will seduce your senses. Try one, try all! Wash them down with a glass of local Colline Lucchesi wine for a fine finish to an unforgettable day exploring Lucca by bike. Lucca is a beautiful town easy to explore by bike (Photo: Leigh Trail/Shutterstock) Discover Lucca's Walls (and all that lies within) from the seat of a bike PAULA REYNOLDS Lucca is filled with history and beautiful architecture, just like this medieval home show (Photo: Steve Lovegrove/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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