L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano S ome dishes strike a c h o r d s o p r o - found to become synonymous with m e m o r i e s o f a place, a moment, or even a person. Caponata is one such dish for me, intertwined with the memory of a dear friend from Sicily, whose culi- nary prowess is unrivaled: k n o w n f o r h e r h e a v e n l y c a p o n a t a , s h e c r a f t e d a somehow secret recipe that continues to mystify all those fortunate enough to taste it. She's a master at teasing us, her friends, with clues to her unique version of the Sicilian classic, without ever revealing quite enough to make it like hers. I've watched her labor over tiny, perfectly cut veg- etables and roast pine nuts to golden perfection. She tends to her Caponata lovingly over two days, allowing the flavors to dance, mingle, and mature into a scrumptious harmony. But the essence of her mas- terpiece, the delicate balance of sugar and vinegar, remains a well-guarded secret, a mys- tery she carries with a playful smile. This exquisite culinary delight, under her deft touch, has easily become the most u n f o r g e t t a b l e c a p o n a t a I have ever tasted. Without a doubt, caponata is an unrivaled protagonist of Sicilian gastronomy and has b e c o m e o n e o f t h e b e s t - known dishes of Italian cui- sine. This harmonious blend of eggplant, tomatoes, olives, and capers, creates a sym- phony of perfectly balanced sweet and sour that tantalizes the palate. When we look at its cen- turies-long history, it's easy to see how caponata's evolu- tion reflects the deep-rooted traditions and diverse cul- tures of the Mediterranean region. The etymology of the word "caponata" itself carries a tale, filled with spec- ulation and mystery. Some theories suggest it may stem from the Greek word capto, reflecting the cutting of ingre- FRANCESCA BEZZONE c o m m o n f o l k , u n a b l e t o afford such luxury, cleverly s u b s t i t u t e d t h e f i s h w i t h more economical eggplants, creating the caponata we love today. The use of eggplants, the star ingredient in caponata, i s a t e s t i m o n y t o t h e resourcefulness and adapt- ability of Sicilian cooks. But, as pointed out by Serena C a s t e l l a n o i n t h e f o o d b l o g L a R i c e r c a d e l Gusto, not all eggplant vari- eties are the same, when it comes to caponata, and you should use the violetta di Palermo. This specific vari- ety, with its oblong shape, firm texture, and minimal oil absorption, forms the perfect backbone for caponata, let- ting the dish retain its iconic texture without becoming excessively greasy. As important as its core ingredients are, caponata does not adhere to a single formula. Instead, its prepara- tion varies across Sicily, echo- ing the region's distinctive local flavors and traditions. T h e c l a s s i c v e r s i o n from Palermo teems with robust eggplant chunks, dis- tinctive celery, finely chopped onions, and genuine Sicilian olives, all brought together by a tantalizing sweet and sour sauce. This assembly is then s p r i n k l e d w i t h a d a s h o f cocoa, adding a surprising but delightful twist to the dish. Journeying from Palermo to Agrigento, caponata mor phs, reflecting the taste of its new home. It introduces local favorites like friggitelli pep- pers, white or red onions, g r e e n a n d b l a c k o l i v e s , capers, honey, and chili pep- per to its ensemble. Basil and nuts, be it pine or almond, add a unique crunch, further enhancing an already delight- ful gastronomic experience. Caponata changes again around Platani, Quisquina, and Magazzolo, where the dish embraces the local pro- duce. The Ciancianese vari- ant showcases artichokes, while the Bivona version adds a t o u c h o f s w e e t n e s s b y incorporating local peaches and seasonal pears. In the coastal city of Tra- pani, toasted almonds find their way into it, enhancing t h e t r a d i t i o n a l r e c i p e . In Catania, eggplants and tomatoes take center stage, complemented by pine nuts and fresh basil. Catania's culinary creativity didn't stop there: in 1916, it introduced the caponatina, a variant marked by smaller vegetable cuts, the incorporation of potatoes, and the intriguing absence of the sweet and sour sauce. The city of Messina offers its own spin on caponata, too, by swapping the tradi- t i o n a l t o m a t o s a u c e f o r peeled tomatoes, letting the vegetables' freshness shine. Interestingly, Naples also has its own caponata variant, a simple recipe prepared with seasoned friselle, fresh toma- toes, garlic, oil, oregano, and basil, often garnished with anchovies and olives. This Neapolitan variety takes a daring step away from the norm, featuring no eggplants. Caponata is truly more t h a n j u s t a d i s h : i t ' s a n immersive culinary journey. Each local variant is a testa- ment to the rich biodiversity, the deep-rooted culinary tra- ditions, and the ingenuity of Sicilian cooks. It's a celebra- tion of Sicilian gastronomy, and of its diverse culinary landscape, all while retaining a distinct historical identity. From its origins as an exclu- sive treat to its widespread p o p u l a r i t y , t h e j o u r n e y of caponata is a truly deli- cious symbol of Sicilian cui- sine. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES dients, a quintessential step in the dish's preparation. O t h e r s b e l i e v e t h e t e r m echoes the Latin caupona, which refers to the taverns where sailors would relish bread garnished with capers, anchovies, and oil. A third notion connects "caponata" to "capone," dolphinfish, a sought-after yet dry delicacy often served, once upon a time, with a sweet and sour sauce to the Sicilian élite. This theory opens a window into a past when economic limitations led to ingenious culinary improvisations: the The queen of caponata is the eggplant (Photo: Alexander Mychko/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Caponata: so full of flavor, so full of history

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