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THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano A t t h e h e a r t o f Italian cuisine lies an art form that stood the t e s t o f time: the art of preserv- ing food. This tradition, deeply rooted in the past, is celebrated as a symbol of respect for nature, seasons, and even as a signifier of family bonding. R e n o w n e d I t a l i a n g a s - tronome Luigi Veronelli recognized the significance o f f o o d p r e s e r v a t i o n a n d penned Il libro delle Con- s e r v e : F r u t t a , V e r d u r a , Cacciagione, Pesce, Carni in 1 9 7 3 . H i s w o r k , w h i c h r e m a i n s o n e o f t h e m o s t iconic on the subject, serves as a tribute to a time when preserving food was not only an act of necessity but also a time of social bonding and communal celebration. Because in Italy, preserv- ing food has always been about more than preventing waste. It carries inherent wisdom, a way to savor a particular meal or ingredi- ent, regardless of time and place. This historical prac- tice, passed down through generations, is reflected in some of Italy's most famous d e l i c a c i e s , i n c l u d i n g t h e s a l t e d f i s h t r a d i t i o n o f Cetara and Menaica, and the time-honored processes of s m o k i n g f i s h a n d m e a t s , from North to South. The Romans knew the natural protective qualities of honey, salt, and vinegar, a s d e p i c t e d i n D e R e C o q u i n a r i a b y A p i c i u s , which provides insights into the food preservation tech- niques used by our ances- t o r s . H o w e v e r , i t w a s n ' t until the late 18th century that the art of canning was formally established: Nico- las Appert, a Parisian pas- try chef, started preserving food in glass jars in 1796, setting a precedent that was l a t e r f o l l o w e d i n I t a l y by Lazzaro Spallanzani, a n I t a l i a n b i o l o g i s t a n d priest. Undoubtedly, the habit of p r e s e r v i n g f o o d w i t h o i l , salt, or vinegar was original- ly a necessity that allowed f a m i l i e s t o e n j o y c e r t a i n foods throughout the year, a l s o w h e n o u t o f s e a s o n . Even more importantly, it reduced greatly the waste of p r o d u c e b y c o n s i d e r a b l y lengthening its shelf life. But t h r o u g h t i m e , a s i t o f t e n happens when it comes to Italian food, necessity was t r a n s f o r m e d i n t o a n a r t form. Pickled vegetables, preserved in brine or oil, were common preservation m e t h o d s t h a t e n s u r e d the organoleptic quali- ties of the vegetables were maintained over time. These age-old techniques, handed down from generations of h o m e m a k e r s , h a v e s i n c e b e e n e m b r a c e d b y t h e industrial world, and pick- led or "sott'olio" products a r e a s t a p l e b o t h i n o u r supermarkets and pantries. A m o n g t h e m e t h o d s o f preservation, pickling is one of the most common. T h e p r o c e s s i n v o l v e s a n anaerobic fermentation (in t h e a b s e n c e o f o x y g e n ) caused by lactic acid bacte- ria, or marinating the food in an acidic solution such as vinegar. The resulting food, which retains its edibility for a n e x t e n d e d p e r i o d , a c q u i r e s a c h a r a c t e r i s t i c salty and sour taste. The fla- vor profile depends on the type of bacteria that survives the fermentation process, g r e a t l y i n f l u e n c e d b y t h e absence of air and internal t e m p e r a t u r e . T o f u r t h e r s a f e g u a r d t h e f o o d f r o m bacteria, herbs and spices with antibacterial proper- ties, such as mustard seeds, garlic, cinnamon, or cloves, a r e o f t e n a d d e d . T h i s m e t h o d i s m o s t e f f e c t i v e w h e n t h e f o o d t o b e p r e - served is not too moist so, u s u a l l y , e x c e s s w a t e r i s r e m o v e d b y a d d i n g s a l t . From cucumbers to onions, capers, and bell peppers, a m y r i a d o f v e g e t a b l e s a r e pickled, both at home and in the industrial sector, main- t a i n i n g t h e v i b r a n c y a n d vitality of their flavors. Another widespread tech- nique in Italian food preser- vation is the use of oil , which serves to isolate food f r o m a i r c o n t a c t , t h u s inhibiting the growth of aer- obic bacteria. However, oil lacks antibacterial proper- t i e s a n d c a n n o t i n h i b i t anaerobic bacteria, such as the notorious botulism bac- teria, and this is why oil-pre- served foods are often salt- ed, cooked, or even acidified w i t h w i n e v i n e g a r b e f o r e being jarred or canned. Arguably the most recog- nizable Italian delicacy pre- served in oil is the humble y e t d e l i c i o u s s u n d r i e d t o m a t o . T o m a t o e s a r e dehydrated under the sun and then submerged in oil, often with added herbs: as w e a l l k n o w , t h e s e l i t t l e morsels of color and taste lend a potent, concentrated tomato flavor to pasta dish- es, antipasti platters, and salads. Another popular pre- served vegetable is eggplant. Indeed, melanzane sot- t'olio, slices of grilled or f r i e d s e a s o n e d e g g p l a n t , then submerged in olive oil, are one of the most popu- lar antipasti in our country and you can use them even in sandwiches and pasta! Then, we have carciofi sott'olio, artichokes pre- served under oil, a beloved s t a p l e i n m a n y I t a l i a n kitchens. The artichokes are usually parboiled, seasoned, and preserved in olive oil. T h e i r d e l i c a t e f l a v o r a n d tender texture make them a delicious addition to pasta, salads, or as a topping for b r u s c h e t t a . M o v i n g o n t o preserves in vinegar, giar- diniera certainly stands out: this vibrant mixed veg- etable preserve comprises cauliflower, bell peppers, c a r r o t s , c e l e r y , a n d gherkins, which are pickled in vinegar and often served a s a n a c c o m p a n i m e n t t o rich meat dishes due to its refreshing, tangy taste. Last but not least, another pick- l e d d e l i g h t t o r e m e m b e r is cipolline borettane in agrodolce, small, flat Ital- ian onions preserved in a sweet and sour sauce: they provide a delectable mix of flavors that pair wonderfully with cheeses and cold cuts. CHIARA D'ALESSIO …making tomato sauce… (Photo: Anna Kolesnikova/Dreamstime) Italy and the humble art of pickling and preserving LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE