L'Italo-Americano

by many over the ages. Per- haps the most memorable of t h o s e r e i g n s w a s t h a t of Ghino di Tacco. Known as the "Gentleman Bandit," Ghino is often referred to as Tuscany's Robin Hood. The story goes that this "lawless nobleman of Siena" fled for political reasons (and maybe some other mischief) and t o o k p o s s e s s i o n o f t h e fortress in 1297. From his lofty hilltop, he decreed that anyone of wealth passing through on the Via Francige- na be robbed yet given a meal and left with enough to con- tinue their journey. A portion o f h i s i l l e g a l g a i n s w a s imparted to the community to maintain cordial relations. Even Dante gives Ghino men- tion in the Divine Comedy, a l o n g w i t h B o c c a c c i o ' s recounting of him as a "good brigand" in the Decameron. Look for the town's statue of Ghino near Piazza S. Pietro. The Bosco Isabella, a conceptual garden, lies adja- cent to the southernmost walls of Radicofani. Built in the late 1800s by Oduardo Luchini, the gardens were designed to blend and har- monize with the preexisting forest and include discreet placement of symbolic struc- tures to honor Luchini's ties to the Free Masons. A con- templative walk through the grounds is good preparation porting grapes. Radicofani transforms into a medieval village leading up to the race: the streets fill with traditional food offerings, costumed pro- cessions, music, and neigh- borhood dinners. S e r e n e s t r o l l s , w i s t f u l views, and traditional festi- vals aren't the only memo- r a b l e o p t i o n s R a d i c o f a n i o f f e r s h e r g u e s t s . The Fortress of Radico- fani is a must-see. Built on the pinnacle of the 3,000- foot mountain that the village c a l l s h o m e , g e t t i n g t h e r e comes with options. Depend- ing on your sense of adven- ture (and stamina), a steep path through the surround- ing forest makes for a beauti- ful hike. The earthen walk- w a y s a r e n ' t a l w a y s well-defined, but you'll even- tually arrive at your destina- tion. If a hike isn't on your agenda, a convenient road- way winds to the top of the mountain with easy parking at the base of the fortress's w a l l s . A s m a l l f e e o f f o u r euros per person, and you're in! History is rich here, as well as the ease of imagining your- self in another time. Be sure to explore the tunnels and c l i m b t o t h e t o w e r ' s t o p . Records date the original construction of the fort to the 9th century, and like any strategic location, it was ruled for an upcoming hearty meal and robust glass of wine in town. Radicofani's selection of notable eateries, while limit- ed, is big in satisfaction and quality — and sometimes size. The largest serving of tasty pici with ragù di cin- giale ever put in front of me was almost finished at the bustling La Grotta, a cozy trattoria that serves a pleas- ing variety of Tuscan dishes. The Trattoria Le Ginestre d a M i m m o is also quite popular, although hours can be unpredictable. If your tim- ing is good, a lovely little café awaits in the shadow of the fortress. Views galore, great food — and maybe a ghostly visit from Ghino — are avail- a b l e w h e n o p e n d u r i n g warmer months. Finding a memorable glass of wine is easy in Radicofani whether it's a Brunello di Montalcino, Nobile di Montepulciano, or one of many other excellent varietals produced in the Val d ' O r c i a r e g i o n . C o n f u s e d about which to choose? Let a friendly local waiter guide the way. It's impossible in one life- time to see every jewel of a Tuscan village, but some are noteworthy and not that far off your beaten path. Add Radicofani to the list – it'll steal your heart in fine Tus- can Robin Hood style. lined park is perfect for a pause, as well as another o p p o r t u n i t y t o m a r v e l a t p a n o r a m i c v i e w s . I t i s n ' t l o n g , t h o u g h , u n t i l t h e church bells remind you it's t i m e t o m o v e a l o n g a n d explore. R a d i c o f a n i ' s c o b b l e d streets wind pleasantly as they narrow then widen, ful- filling their duty as perime- ters to earthen-colored stone façade buildings. Small alley- ways tempt you, many lead- ing to another lookout over t h e v a l l e y o r p e r h a p s a delightful dead-end bordered in over-stuffed pots of crim- son geraniums. The quiet and authentic charm of the village is enchanting: take the time to go slow. It's not always so quiet, however. Tranquility turns to revelry when summer arrives bringing the Festa degli Antichi Mestieri or Festi- val of Antique Crafts. The t w o - d a y e v e n t e a c h J u n e draws crowds as it showcases traditional crafts and meth- ods with parades, demon- strations, and re-enactments. Get ready to cheer on your f a v o r i t e c o n t r a d a d u r i n g R a d i c o f a n i ' s P a l i o d e l Bigonzo. Held each Sep- tember, relay teams of two s t u r d y y o u n g m e n r a c e through the village carrying a heavy wooden bigonzo, a tra- ditional container for trans- THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano R a d i c o f a n i ' s ancient fortress t o w e r s t a n d s watch from the m o u n t a i n t o p like a medieval lighthouse over Tuscany's Val d'Orcia. For over a thousand years, this important landmark has remained visible across the swath of this uniquely pic- turesque valley. It warned, it b e c k o n e d … a n d t o d a y i t greets and welcomes all with- in its sight to the enchanting village of Radicofani. Tiny but mighty, the ham- let of Radicofani has been a destination of relevance since at least the 900s. Strategic placement on the all-impor- tant road to Rome — the Via Francigena — along with the expansive views from the fortress tower made Radico- fani the epicenter of numer- ous battles for control. After all, he who controlled the vil- lage and fortress also con- trolled the important passage to and from Rome. Today Radicofani retains her signifi- cance as a waypoint for mod- ern pilgrims traveling the Via Francigena but struggles for power have long since faded into legend — except for one that we'll visit further along. It's an overused cliché, but a s " o f f t h e b e a t e n p a t h " places go, Radicofani is one worthy of finding your way to. The grandeur of Florence and the allures of Siena earn their reputations, yet there is value in leaving the crowds behind for a day spent in this bite-sized Tuscan gem. With a population of a little over one thousand, the village's heartbeat is soft yet healthy and welcoming. There's no tourist map d i r e c t i n g t h e c o u r s e b u t beginning your exploration from Piazza S. Pietro has a special feel. Dominating the t i d y , s m a l l s q u a r e i s t h e unembellished Pieve di San Pietro, its origins dating to the 11th century. The humble façade, however, is deceiving. Just inside awaits a collection of breathtaking 16th-century m a s t e r p i e c e s b y A n d r e a Della Robbia, the maestro of those captivating blue and white glazed ceramics offset by borders of sage-colored laurel and plump lemons. If time is limited, the piazza itself is a delight. A congenial bar catty-corner from the church and adjacent to a tree- PAULA REYNOLDS ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Radicofani – the pint-sized gem of Tuscany's Val d'Orcia A slice of life in Radicofani (Photo: Marjan Khanjani/Dreamstime) and its historic "rocca" (Photo: Artem Bolshakov/Dreamstime)

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