L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano T he story of vel- v e t i s o n e o f timeless luxury, adaptability, and d u r a b i l i t y . I t s name, stemming from the Latin term vellus meaning "fleece," pays homage to the fabric's defining feature: a dense, soft pile that creates a uniquely plush texture and visually appealing sheen. This characteristic made vel- vet a coveted material since its earliest days. O r i g i n a t i n g f r o m the East, velvet was likely, at least at the beginning of its history, handwoven from silk, showcasing its opulence. By the 13th century, this lav- ish fabric traversed the Silk Road, breaking cultural and geographical barriers, and arrived in the West. Upon its appearance, it catalyzed a shift in fashion tastes: its plush texture and lustrous sheen swiftly positioned it as a symbol of wealth, power, and prestige among Europe's u p p e r e c h e l o n s . V e l v e t ' s regal reputation was such that it was favored by kings, queens, and nobility, and it often featured in ecclesiasti- c a l a n d c e r e m o n i a l v e s t - ments. T h e 1 6 t h c e n t u r y marked a watershed moment for velvet. During this period, its production surged espe- cially in Italy, spurred by a blossoming textile industry. Velvet began to be distinc- t i v e l y u s e d f o r c l o t h i n g , m a r k i n g a c l e a r d i v i s i o n between its use in apparel and home furnishing materi- als. V e l v e t s t r u c k p e o p l e immediately for how versa- t i l e y e t u n i q u e i t w a s , i t s uniqueness lying also in the fact it could be woven from various types of fibers. Initial versions of velvet were pri- marily silk, making them prohibitively expensive and exclusive. However, advance- ments in textile manufactur- ing introduced velvet made from other textiles, such as wool and, more prevalently, cotton. The latter eventually emerged as the most popular variety due to its affordabili- ty, resilience, and adaptabili- ty. Cotton velvet retains the fabric's signature softness a n d r i c h c o l o r d e p t h a n d suits a broad spectrum of garments—from jackets and trousers to hats. Moreover, it can be rendered in a smooth or corded texture, further enhancing its versatility in fashion design. As you can see, the chroni- cle of velvet is rich and var- ied, but its journey to our beautiful and beloved Sar- dinia certainly stands out. This voyage was facilitated by the Catalans, who intro- duced the fabric to the island. H e r e , i t a c q u i r e d t h e name terciopelo alla spagno- la, or Spanish velvet, despite being crafted in local work- shops. In Sardinia, velvet show- cased its remarkable adapt- ability and versatility. The fabric's luxurious feel and royal aura seamlessly merged with the local culture and customs, reflecting the dis- tinctive styles and traditions of the region. It became an e m b l e m o f S a r d i n i a n identity, encapsulating the island's vibrant heritage and unique fashion sensibilities. The 19th century heralded a significant turning point for velvet in Sardinia, especially in the province of Nuoro. Nestled in the heartland of Sardinia, the area is a true tapestry of beautiful land- scapes: it stretches from the central mountainous regions to the eastern coast of the island, with a panorama that i n c l u d e s g e n t l e v a l l e y s , rugged cliffs, and expansive plains. It is here, amid this diversity, that the story of velvet takes a unique turn, demonstrating its adaptabili- ty and versatility in fashion and culture. In 19th century Nuoro, velvet transitioned f r o m a l u x u r y f a b r i c t o a transformative element in Sardinian men's fashion. Vel- vet garments, once exclusive to royalty and the aristocra- cy, were embraced by the people of Nuoro, featuring in traditional wardrobes, and b e c o m i n g c o m m o n p l a c e among rural and urban pop- ulations alike, particularly during festive occasions. This shift elevated velvet's status in Sardinia and estab- lished a new fashion stan- dard, where velvet became the representation of tradi- tion and luxury merging together, a melding of the old and new. This period wit- nessed the democratization of velvet in Sardinia, under- scoring its timeless allure and reinforcing its position as a fabric that transcends geographical and societal borders. Among the luminaries of N u o r o ' s f a s h i o n s c e n e was Aurelio Pinu, a young tailor who established his shop in 1954 after perfecting his skills in French ateliers. His creations—velvet suits and cotton shirts inspired by Sardinian tradition—quickly became a draw for locals and tourists alike, making him a pivotal figure in the local fashion scene. Over time, his shop expanded its offerings, not only providing bespoke c l o t h i n g , b u t a l s o a w i d e range of quality ready-to- wear items, knitwear, under- w e a r , a n d accessories. Regardless of the variety, custom-made cloth- ing remains the crowning glory of the store's offerings, with styles that cater to every occasion, from the classic and ceremonial to the tradi- tional Sardinian and casual. The legacy of Aurelio Pinu lives on in his sons, Nicolò a n d G i u s e p p e . A f t e r acquiring their qualifications a s s t y l i s t s i n M i l a n , t h e y returned to Nuoro, bringing a fresh perspective to their father's business. They intro- duced a fundamental vari- able for their success: the combination of tradition with innovation, which propelled t h e b u s i n e s s b e y o n d t h e b o u n d a r i e s o f N u o r o , enabling it to gain national and international recogni- tion. Today, Pinu's velvet suits, which draw inspiration from the pastoral world, are lauded for their perfect blend of elegance and modernity . The story of velvet is a tes- tament to the fabric's endur- ing charm and versatility. From its origins in the East t o i t s t r a n s f o r m a t i o n i n Europe and its journey to Sardinia, velvet demonstrat- ed its timeless appeal and ability to transcend bound- a r i e s o f s t y l e a n d t i m e . Today, as it continues to hold a cherished place in fashion, velvet remains a symbol of luxury and elegance: a reflec- tion of its rich history and the many hands and minds that contributed to its story. LUCA SIGNORINI Traditional Sardinian costumes made with Nuoro velvet (Photo: Hibiscus81/Shutterstock) Unraveling the story of Nuoro's velvet LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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