L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 15, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano A mong the olive g r o v e s a n d v i n e y a r d s o f s u n - d r e n c h e d S o u t h e r n Italy, you can find a touch of the New World and, no, I'm not talking about tomatoes... Amid warm, rocky terrains, adorned by the sun's brilliant touch, we find a plant that seems oddly out of place: t h e p r i c k l y p e a r . T h i s intriguing botanical trans- p l a n t , k n o w n i n I t a l i a n as fico d'India, or "Indian fig," makes us think of the tropics in the heart of the Mediterranean. Originally a native of the arid regions o f C e n t r a l a n d S o u t h America, the prickly pear found an unexpected second home in Italy. Its botanical name, opuntia ficus-indica, might not be on the lips of every Italian, but the fruit it produces is a familiar and beloved feature of the Italian culinary landscape. Over 7,000 years ago, the p e o p l e o f a n c i e n t M e x i c o were cultivating the prickly pear, a plant that would come to be deeply intertwined with their culture: the fleshy pads o f t h e c a c t u s , k n o w n a s nopales, and the sweet, suc- culent fruit, called tunas, were prized elements of their d i e t . R a w o r c o o k e d , t h e nopales found their way into a variety of dishes, often pre- p a r e d l i k e a v e g e t a b l e o r i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o s t e w s . The tunas, either enjoyed fresh or transformed into beverages, preserves, or even a type of candy, provided both sustenance and plea- sure. But the prickly pear was more than food to Pre- C o l u m b i a n c i v i l i z a t i o n s : the Aztecs, in particular, saw in this plant a treasure trove of medicinal benefits: it was used as a treatment for wounds, a remedy for infec- tions, and a solution to diges- t i v e t r o u b l e s . E v e n t h e tiny cochineal insects that m a d e t h e i r h o m e s o n t h e prickly pear cacti were put to use: when crushed, these insects produced a vivid red dye that the Aztecs used to color their textiles and cos- metics. Indeed, prickly pear cacti are grown still today to harvest cochineal insects and produce this precious natural coloring. Perhaps, though, the most profound signifi- cance of the prickly pear was its symbolic and religious i m p o r t a n c e : t h e A z t e c s b e l i e v e d t h e i r c a p i t a l city, Tenochtitlán (modern- day Mexico City), was estab- lished at a location ordained by their god Huitzilopochtli: the divine sign the divinity used was an eagle perched on a prickly pear cactus, a pow- e r f u l i m a g e t h a t r e m a i n s immortalized today on the Mexican flag. T h e p r i c k l y p e a r embarked on its transatlantic journey in the late 15th cen- tury, possibly carried back to E u r o p e b y C h r i s t o p h e r Columbus himself after his first voyage to the Americas. I t f o u n d i n t h e M e d i t e r - ranean basin an environment remarkably akin to its origi- nal habitat: with its ability to thrive in poor soils and its resistance to drought, the prickly pear quickly spread across Italy's arid regions, becoming a common sight, particularly in Sicily and Calabria, by the 16th centu- ry. The Italian name, fico d'India, reflects the era of its arrival to the peninsula: at the time of Columbus, any- thing originating from the New World was referred to as "Indian," based on the ini- tial belief that the explorer had, in fact, reached India. The English moniker "prickly pear" is more descriptive, as it refers to the sharp thorns that guard the fruit ("prick- ly") and the pear-like shape of the fruit itself ("pear"). P r i c k l y p e a r s h a v e s i n c e b e c o m e a c o r n e r s t o n e o f Italy's agricultural scenery, especially in the southern regions, as these areas' warm and arid climates echo the c a c t u s ' o r i g i n a l C e n t r a l American habitats. In Sicily, vast fields of prickly pear cacti stand tall, their vibrant fruits offering a colorful con- trast against the backdrop of t h e r e g i o n ' s r o c k y l a n d - scapes. They are also com- m o n l y f o u n d i n C a l a b r i a , Apulia, and Sardinia. O v e r t i m e , t h e I t a l i a n s have not just accepted this New World cactus into their landscapes, but also integrat- ed it into their culinary prac- tices. Consumed fresh after c a r e f u l l y p e e l i n g o f f i t s thorny outer layer, the prick- ly pear offers a sweet, subtly tangy flavor. It provides a refreshing burst of tropical taste, often compared to a combination of watermelon and pear, that is particularly welcome during Italy's hot summers. But the prickly pear's role in Italian cuisine extends far beyond being a s i m p l e f r e s h f r u i t : t r a n s - formed into jams, jellies, and desserts, it lends a touch of exotic flavor to the Italian t a b l e . I t e v e n s t a r s i n liqueurs, like the Sicilian Ficodì, renowned for its dis- tinctively sweet taste. Creative cooks across Italy have found a myriad of ways to bring the unique qualities of the prickly pear into their dishes: diced, it can add a surprising twist to both fruit and savory salads. Its pulp, whether incorporated into cakes, tarts, or pastries, can offer a tropical flair to classic Italian desserts. In Sicily, the fruit is used to flavor gelato a n d g r a n i t a . T h e p r i c k l y pear can also be found in s a v o r y I t a l i a n c u i s i n e : although less common, it can provide a sweet counterpoint to meats in stews or roasts. I t a l i a n s e n j o y e v e n t h e n o p a l e s , t h e p r i c k l y pear's cactus pads: once their spines are removed, they are cooked and eaten like a veg- etable, although this is less common in Italy than in the plants' original home, Mexi- co. The journey of the prickly pear, from the New World to Italy, is an extraordinary tale of culinary exploration and adaptation and today, the prickly pear is not only a sta- ple of southern Italian cui- sine but also a symbol of the Mediterranean landscape's resilient beauty. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Prickly pears come from South America but found in Southern Italy a second home (Photo: Marcomayer/Dreamstime) The prickly pear, a sweet gift from the New World LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE

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