L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 15, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano W e all love I t a l i a n food: it's s i m p l e , f l a v o r - some, and full of good ingre- dients. But let's face it, some- t i m e s e v e n t h e m o r e straightforward of recipes can be tricky: I mean, it must be like that, otherwise why can't m y t o m a t o s a u c e t a s t e a s g o o d a s m y g r a n d m a ' s ? That's because there's more to a recipe than ingredients and step-by-step instructions, there is also a lot of know- how many of us don't have. For those among us who d o n ' t h a v e a n o n n a o r m a m m a t o a s k , h e r e a r e some little tricks gathered from the experts to make sure your next traditional Italian meal tastes perfect! The art of pizza The first secret to perfect pizza, as per Italian pizza champion Giorgio Sabbati- ni, cited in Esquire Italia, lies i n t h e t i m e y o u i n v e s t . Preparing the dough a day in advance allows for a slow, natural rise, which signifi- cantly enhances its texture. If you have guests, it's best to s t i c k t o t r i e d - a n d - t r u e recipes: usually, maintaining a dough hydration level of 80%, which translates to 800 grams of water per kilogram of flour, is ideal. T h e c h o i c e o f b a k i n g tray is also critical, especially when dealing with high-mois- ture ingredients. A tray that heats quickly is your ally in forming the perfect crust. R e n o w n e d p i z z a m a k e r Gabriele Bonci suggests generously oiling your tray at the start. After the first use, just clean it with absorbent paper and store, no washing needed. What about tomatoes? Well, ideally, we should avoid passata and use well-drained w h o l e t o m a t o e s i n s t e a d , c r u s h e d a n d s e a s o n e d t o taste. You see: given that home ovens can't match the power of a pizzer ia oven, e x c e s s i v e m o i s t u r e c o u l d FRANCESCA BEZZONE d e l d o l c e i t a l i a n o p i ù amato (Giunti, 2016)—share their expertise. Fresh and firm mascarpone cheese, t a k e n s t r a i g h t f r o m t h e fridge, is essential to prevent the cream from sagging. The quality of your eggs is equal- ly crucial: fresh eggs at room temperature are ideal for achieving well-beaten yolks and whites. T h e c o f f e e s h o u l d b e strong and not sweetened or diluted with Marsala or any other liqueurs to avoid an overly sweet or alcohol-heavy r e s u l t . W h e n i t c o m e s to savoiardi (ladyfingers), o p t f o r d r y o n e s w i t h a crunchy side, just like the ones you get at the supermar- ket, because these maintain their structure even after soaking. Alternatives include sponge cake or Pavesini for a slightly sweeter twist. The inclusion of egg whites or cream varies among chefs, but Clara stands by using a single egg white to lighten the cream. Last but not least, making your tiramisù a day in advance allows the fla- vors to meld perfectly and ensures a truly mouthwater- ing result. M a s t e r i n g t o m a t o sauce Great tomato sauce starts with ripe, firm tomatoes— ramati, cluster tomatoes, r o u n d t o m a t o e s , S a n Marzano, or Romano types are all excellent choices. After washing, drying, and seeding, cook the tomatoes until they wilt, then pass them through a food mill. Once you start making the sauce itself, a low, constant heat ensures t h e t o m a t o e s d o n ' t b u r n , a n d c o v e r i n g t h e p o t retains the water and aromas. A pinch of sugar or baking soda can balance acidity, but be cautious with quantities! Be careful also with garlic: start your sauce with a garlic- infused oil base—just remem- b e r t o r e m o v e t h e g a r l i c before adding the tomatoes. A d d i n g c h o p p e d b a s i l leaves early in the process gives a fresh flavor, and a few s p o o n s o f p a s t a w a t e r toward the end will make your sauce richer. Risotto done right Knowing your rice type is the key to perfect risotto. Fino varieties like Ribe and Sant'Andrea have long grains and require 14-16 minutes of cooking, while Superfino rice v a r i e t i e s — B a l d o , R o m a , Arborio, and Carnaroli—are optimal for risotto due to their texture. They require between 15 and 18 minutes to cook. T o m a k e r i s o t t o r i g h t , don't rinse your rice: its powdery film is a starch-rich layer essential for maintain- ing grain shape and achieving a creamy consistency. On the o t h e r h a n d , d o n ' t f o r g e t to toast it on moderate eat, b e f o r e a d d i n g a n y o t h e r ingredient. Choosing the right cook- ing heat is also key to pre- venting sticking or uneven cooking: while you should start with medium heat, you really need to play with it t h r o u g h o u t t h e c o o k i n g process, lowering or increas- ing it when needed. Ah! And m a k e s u r e t h e b r o t h i s always hot when you add it so that the cooking process is maintained. With risotto, it's important to ... take your time and trust your taste buds to under- stand when the rice is ready: taste, taste, and taste some more! The final creaming, o r m a n t e c a t u r a , s h o u l d occur off the flame, with the addition of cold butter and, if you like, parmigiano. A few minutes of rest before serv- ing allows flavors to mix and the dish to reach an optimal serving temperature. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES spell disaster, so we should make sure our sauce is not too liquid. The tomatoes, oil, and salt should be added to the dough before you bake it a first time then, after about 7-10 minutes, remove the pizza, let it cool slightly, add the drained mozzarella, and bake again. This double- cooking process is perfect for home pizzas and gives a result similar to that of a pizzeria! P e r f e c t i n g y o u r tiramisù game For a foolproof tiramisù, Clara and Gigi Padovan — creators of Tiramisù Day and authors of a book dedicated to this dessert, Tiramisù. Sto- ria, curiosità, interpretazioni Do you know all the tricks to make a perfect risotto? (Photo: Fedor Kondratenko/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Tricks and secrets to make your signature Italian dishes perfect

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