L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 29, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano M y d e a r e s t f r i e n d s , I am writing t o y o u o n t h e d a y of San Giovanni, the 24th of June. I know that, when you read, we'll have left this sunny day behind us, but I thought it was worth talking about it anyway. To us Ital- ians San Giovanni repre- sents the real beginning of summer and, as such, it's appropriate to talk about it even a handful of days after it passed: in the end, the sunny, golden season it her- alds is still only at its very start. Saint John the Bap- tist's feast is a moment of Faith and prayer for practic- ing Catholics but vestiges of s p i r i t u a l i t y a n d a n c i e n t beliefs are present also in s o m e o f i t s m o s t p o p u l a r traditions across the coun- t r y . I t a l l b e g i n s , r e a l l y , between the 23rd and the 24th, on the night of San Giovanni, when magic and r i t u a l s h a p p e n a n d t h e sacred and pagan, the natur- a l a n d t h e s u p e r n a t u r a l intersect. It's easy to see, here, the connection with the ancient celebrations of the Summer Solstice, which takes place only a handful of hours before. The notte di S a n G i o v a n n i i s t h e moment when, traditionally, Italians make the Acqua di San Giovanni, a concoction believed to dispel misfor- tune and invite prosperity. Crafted at the stroke of mid- night, this water symbolizes baptism, purity, and rejuve- nation, but also the coming of summer with its abun- dance. This special water carries significance beyond its reli- gious undertones and delves into the traditions and cus- t o m s o f t h e C e l t s . O n c e upon a time, on this mysti- cal night often dubbed "the n i g h t o f t h e w i t c h e s , " women would gather herbs for their potions under the c o v e r o f d a r k n e s s , e a c h ingredient intended to har- ness the energies of the sea- sons and it is in this very tradition that the origins of the Acqua di San Giovanni are rooted. The preparation of this "dew of the gods" is an inti- mate and personal affair still today: it all starts on the evening of June 23rd, with the collection of blooming herbs, including St. John's wort, lavender, and rose- m a r y , w h i c h a r e t h e n infused in a basin of water and left outdoors overnight to absorb the celestial magic of the solstice and the fresh- ness of dawn's dew. The rit- ual culminates on the morn- ing of the 24th, when people wash their hands and faces with the infused water, a symbolic act of purification a n d r e b i r t h . I t ' s b e l i e v e d that this sacred bath invites love, good luck, and health for the forthcoming months. I f y o u a r e i n R o m e , b e s i d e s m a k i n g m a g i c w a t e r , y o u m a y a l s o f i n d y o u r s e l f e a t i n g s n a i l s ! This curious culinary prac- tice has its roots deep in the heart of Rome, where the feast of Saint John the Bap- tist assumes a distinctive character. According to leg- e n d , o n t h e e v e o f J u n e 24th, the Piazza di San Gio- vanni in Rome once teemed with demons and witches called upon by Salomè and E r o d i a d e , t h e w o m e n responsible for Saint John the Baptist's demise. People from all over the city would gather at the piazza, carry- ing lanterns and torches, to pray for the Saint's interces- sion at the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano. Amid the prayers, songs, a n d d a n c e s , t h e R o m a n s w o u l d i n d u l g e i n v a r i o u s delicacies sold by street ven- dors. Yet, there was one par- ticular dish that they rel- i s h e d a b o v e a l l o t h e r s - snails. This became a ritu- al, a part of the celebration t h a t s i m p l y c o u l d n o t b e missed. Why snails, you ask? Let's b e h o n e s t , t h e y a r e n o t everyone's cup of tea, even if they are a relatively com- mon ingredient in Italian and French cuisine. They are, like frog legs in Pied- mont, the quinto quarto in t h e c a p i t a l , o r t h e f a m o u s p a n i n o c o ' a meusa in Palermo, a bit of an acquired taste. So why would people feast on them on the day of Saint John? W e l l , a f t e r t h e s p r i n g thunderstorms, snails were easily found and collected in abundance, so these critters became a readily available ingredient for the feast that marked the beginning of the summer season. There may b e m o r e t o i t , t h o u g h : a s s o m e o f y o u m a y k n o w , snails have little horns, so eating them was also consid- ered a way to exercise evil by, literally, "eating horns," w h i c h a r e a s y m b o l o f Lucifer himself. In the old times, Romans would buy the snails and enjoy them right there in the piazza, often amidst jovial gatherings of friends and f a m i l y , a n d t h e p r a c t i c e became deeply ingrained in Roman tradition, transcend- ing time to reach the present d a y : i n d e e d , t h e f e a s t o f Saint John the Baptist in Rome is not complete with- out a hearty dish of snails to enjoy. In case you are interest- ed, there is also a traditional recipe, the lumache di San Giovanni or lumache alla Romana, which people pre- pare on the occasion. In it, snails are cooked with gar- lic, salted anchovies filets, t o m a t o e s , c h i l i p e p p e r s , olive oil, and pennyroyal. Whether you like snails or not, this quirky tradition speaks to Italy's rich and diverse culinary heritage, which is steeped in histori- cal and cultural significance, and it certainly adds a dis- tinct... flavor to the Feast of Saint John the Baptist. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Saint John the Baptist's celebrations (above) are popular from North to South: parades go hand in hand with traditional events and special customs (Photo: Izanbar/Dreamstime) The beginning of summer, magic water, and snails: here's why we love the day of San Giovanni LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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