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THURSDAY, JUNE 29, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE C o r c i a n o s i t s a t o p a h i l l , proudly guard- i n g t h e v a l l e y that connects the Trasimeno and Tuscany ter- ritories with the Tiber Val- l e y . A l i t t l e j e w e l o f Umbria, some believe its name derives from the Latin Curtius or Coricius, refer- ring to the owner of a rustic estate, while popular tradi- tion suggests that Corciano means "Heart of Janus" or "Hill of Janus." For others s t i l l , t h e v i l l a g e ' s n a m e traces back to Coragino, a companion of Ulysses. W a l k i n g t h r o u g h i t s streets is like stepping back in time. The original settle- m e n t f e a t u r e s c o n c e n t r i c road systems enclosed with- in triple walls dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. D o m i n a t i n g t h e h i g h e s t point of the village is the Torre del Comune, a mag- nificent 13th-century struc- ture built with limestone and reused blocks of traver- t i n e . N e a r b y s t a n d s t h e Palazzo Municipale, the cur- rent Town Hall, which was once the residence of the noble della Corgna family, t h e D u k e s o f C o r c i a n o . Another architectural gem is the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, an elegant 15th-cen- tury building that served as the seat of the magistracy g o v e r n i n g C o r c i a n o o n behalf of the dominant city of Perugia. Here, you'll also find sev- eral remarkable churches. A m o n g t h e m , t h e P a r i s h C h u r c h o f S a n t a M a r i a Assunta, dating back to the 13th century, where we can f i n d t w o n o t a b l e m a s t e r - p i e c e s : t h e A s s u m p t i o n p a i n t e d b y P e r u g i n o i n 1513 and the Gonfalone by Benedetto Bonfigli, dated 1 4 7 2 . W e s h o u l d a l s o remember the Church of San C r i s t o f o r o , b u i l t i n 1 5 3 7 w h i c h t o d a y h o u s e s t h e M u s e u m o f P i e v a n i a , a n intriguing collection of fres- coes and sacred art objects. Not far from the former l o c a t i o n o f P o r t a S a n Francesco, which once was the northern access to the castle, and got destroyed in the late 19th century, you'll find the Church and for- m e r C o n v e n t o f S a n Francesco. According to tradition, this complex was established in 1223 after the v i s i t o f S a i n t F r a n c i s o f Assisi to Corciano, following his journey from Lake Trasi- meno. However, it is more likely that its construction took place at the end of the 13th century. Corciano is also a par- adise for food lovers. The village boasts a variety of local culinary delights that showcase the authentic fla- vors of Umbria. One such specialty is the traditional torta al testo, a low, flat- bread typical of Umbrian gastronomy. In Corciano, this savory treat is served in two ways: stuffed with local sausages and wild herbs or with thinly sliced prosciutto, a delicacy hand-cut at the table. And to be faithful to t h e o l d s a y i n g t h a t g o e s , "Del maiale non si butta via niente," once all the ham is gone into delicious torte al testo, the bone is often used to make a flavorful broth. Additionally, the torta al testo accompanies another l o c a l s p e c i a l t y , t h e p o l l o all'arrabbiata. If you visit during Easter season, you must try the torta di Pasqua al formaggio, a cheese-filled loaf. To savor the authentic flavors of the village, visitors can also explore local pro- ducers offering specialties such as honey (with educa- t i o n a l b e e h i v e s ) , s a f f r o n , ancient grains, terrestrial snails (with a farm for edu- cational purposes), organic olive oil, and wine. While in Corciano, histo- ry enthusiasts can discover ancient Etruscan tombs at the Necropolis of Strozza- c a p p o n i a n d F o s s o R i g o . Over 50 tombs, carved from local travertine between the late 3rd and 1st centuries BC, provide a fascinating glimpse into this ancient civ- ilization's burial practices. For a deeper understand- ing of the region's history, a v i s i t t o t h e A n t i q u a r i u m Comunale is a must. This m u s e u m h o u s e s a r t i f a c t s discovered throughout the territory and presents them in chronological order, high- l i g h t i n g t h e p r e s e n c e o f humans in Umbria from pre- historic times to the classical era. The collection includes sections on paleontology, prehistory, classical archae- o l o g y , a n d a n i m p o r t a n t exhibition space dedicated to the Etruscan-Roman period T here is something, i n t h e b e a u t i f u l and history-rich T u s c a n t o w n o f S i e n a t h a t , f o r centuries, brought its people together in shared anticipa- t i o n , c o m m u n a l j o y , a n d friendly rivalry. It's a spectacle of beating drums, vibrant ban- n e r s , a n d t h e r h y t h m i c a l , t h u n d e r i n g s o u n d o f t h e hooves of pure-blood horses hitting the ground. Of course, we are talking about the Palio. The Palio di Siena, at its core, is a horse race but it's so m u c h m o r e t o t h e S i e n e s e p e o p l e : i f y o u a r e i n t o w n when it takes place, their pas- sion and commitment are pal- pable. The Palio also has a long and celebrated history dating back to the 12th centu- ry, which makes it an interest- ing event to follow also for those with a penchant for the good, old Middle Ages. Root- ed in the city's heritage, it encapsulates the pride, identi- ty, and spirit of Siena's 17 neighborhoods or contrade (but only 10 can participate in each race for safety reasons), known for being like small sovereign states, each with their own traditions, flag, and emblem. Curiously, the Palio takes place not once, but twice a year, on the 2nd of July and on the 16th of August. The f i r s t r a c e i s k n o w n a s t h e Palio di Provenzano because it was originally held in honor of the Madonna of Proven- zano, whose cult was very lively in the city. The second r a c e , k n o w n a s t h e P a l i o d e l l ' A s s u n t a , i s h e l d o n August 16, and it honors the A s s u m p t i o n o f t h e V i r g i n Mary into Heaven. P i a z z a d e l C a m p o , which is normally a quiet, ele- gant square, transforms into a makeshift racetrack for a race that only last about 90 sec- onds. Initially, though, the Palio wasn't held here but through the narrow streets of the city center; back then, it was called "Palio alla Lunga." In the 16th century, it was moved to its current location, and that's why we usually say that the Palio di Siena as we know it was born on the 2nd of July 1652. And what is it called "Palio"? Well, because since the very beginning, the prize for the winner as a pall- lium, a richly decorated flag. A moment of the Palio di Siena race (Photo: M.Rohana/Dreamstime) A quaint street in the village of Corciano, near Perugia (Photo: Stefano Valeri/Dreamstime) A celebration of tradition: the unwavering spirit of the Palio di Siena Corciano: a journey through time and flavors