L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 27, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano W e are all f a m i l i a r with the colors and f l a v o r s of Liguria, that glorious stripe of land between the blue of its homonymous sea and the white and green of the Alps. We know it because of the grandiose past of its capi- tal, Genova la Superba, for its beaches and for the old-fash- ioned allure of some parts of its Riviera di Levante, a beloved destination for poets and artists of yore. And we shouldn't forget its food, of course. Liguria's culinary tradition thrives in its history, simplicity, and the flavors of the land. One dish, in particular, embodies this tradition, and I am not talking about pesto. Mind, I love pesto, especially when it's freshly made - in fact, mark my words: you cannot s a y y o u k n o w h o w p e s t o t a s t e s l i k e u n l e s s y o u ' v e tried it fresh. No, today, we are talking about pansoti. This stuffed pasta, served with a unique w a l n u t s a u c e k n o w n as salsa di noci, is as typi- cally Ligurian as pesto, but it perhaps doesn't enjoy the same popularity, neither in Italy nor abroad. What an enormous loss! Time to get to know this Ligurian delica- cy better. L e t ' s s t a r t w i t h t h e i r n a m e . P a n s o t i i s a t e r m derived from the Ligurian word "pansa" meaning belly. They are a type of generous- ly-filled pasta that resembles a plump belly and they can b e t o l d a p a r t f r o m t h e i r more famous cousins, ravio- li, by shape and size: they look a tad like large tortelli- ni, with a half-moon or tri- angular form, depending on which part of Liguria they come from. But what truly sets pansoti apart is their filling, a delightful blend of fresh herbs and cheese, a marker of the regional tradi- tion of piatti di magro, or meat-free dishes. The origins of pansoti, however, are not as ancient as we may think: apparently they are a 20th-century cre- ation. Some culinary histori- ans trace their official entry into Ligurian cuisine to their presentation at the gastro- CHIARA D'ALESSIO sour taste, or alternatively, ricotta, to create a harmo- nious blend of flavors that is both simple and deeply satis- fying. Finally, everything is brought to a perfect balance by the addition of eggs and a h a n d f u l o f P e c o r i n o o r Parmigiano. T h e p a s t a f o r o u r pansoti is made from fresh dough, sometimes lightened b y r e p l a c i n g e g g s w i t h a glass of white wine, which adds a pleasant aroma to the finished product. Once the dough has rested and been rolled into a thin sheet, the f u n b e g i n s : t h e f i l l i n g i s s p o o n e d o n t o t h e p a s t a , w h i c h i s t h e n f o l d e d a n d sealed, creating little parcels of flavor ready to be cooked. But pansoti would not be complete without their tradi- t i o n a l a c c o m p a n i m e n t : salsa di noci. This creamy walnut sauce, believed to have originated in the Mid- dle Ages, is a perfect coun- t e r p o i n t t o t h e h e r b - filled pansoti: made from a b l e n d o f w a l n u t s , b r e a d soaked in milk, garlic, and g r a t e d P a r m i g i a n o o r Pecorino cheese, the sauce is a celebration of the region's high-quality walnuts. The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r o u n d together and combined with olive oil to create a smooth, creamy sauce that enhances the light taste of pansoti's vegetable filling. O v e r h a l f a c e n t u r y passed since the pansoti's debut, and the recipe has seen a series of transforma- tions. The once simple pre- boggion evolved into a com- p l e x m e d l e y o f u p t o 1 3 d i f f e r e n t h e r b s . T h i s i s where the artistry of the Lig- urian homemakers shines, as they masterfully balance the flavors of their chosen h e r b s t o c r e a t e a t r u l y unique dish every time. For t h o s e w h o p r e f e r c o n v e - nience over foraging, chard, spinach, and borage, as we said, can be used. If you are in Genoa, you can find a pre- prepared preboggion mix in t h e b u s t l i n g s t a l l s o f t h e Mercato Orientale, on Via XX Settembre, especially during the spring season. Summer is a perfect time to enjoy pansoti thanks to the many culinary festivals up and down Liguria where they are served: a perfect opportunity to savor this delightful dish - and many others! - in all its glory. Pesto is pesto, pesto is king. But the Ligurian court o f g o o d f o o d i s r i c h a n d deserves to be discovered in all its glorious burst of fla- vors: with pansoti and salsa di noci, you can't fail. It's a heart-warming and comfort- i n g f o o d , w h i c h a l s o h a s something exotic, with its walnuts and wild herbs fill- ing. Indeed, a dish to try and discover. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES nomic festival of Nervi in 1 9 6 1 . Y e t , o t h e r s a r g u e that pansoti, served with their characteristic walnut sauce, were already a part of t h e c u l i n a r y l a n d s c a p e in Rapallo as early as 1931. Traditionally, their filling was made with a mix of wild herbs (five, to be precise) t h a t g r e w s p o n t a n e o u s l y along the Ligurian coast, k n o w n i n d i a l e c t a s pre- boggion, but today it can vary based on seasonality and availability, so don't be s u r p r i s e d t o f i n d c h a r d , spinach, or borage inside of your pansoti depending on what's in season. The greens a r e b o u n d t o g e t h e r with prescinseua, a local fresh cheese with a slightly Pansoti are typically served with walnut sauce (Photo: Antonio Scarpi/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Move over pesto! Have you tried pansoti and salsa di noci? Handmade pansoti for sale (Photo: Anton Watman/Shutterstock)

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