L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 2023 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano N ot many know that focaccia, timeless mas- terpiece of Ital- ian cuisine, was born in the bustling kitchens of antiquity. Indeed this flat- bread, sumptuously rich in olive oil and steeped in history, serves as a culinary bridge be- tween past and present. The debate over focaccia's exact origin is a fascinating journey through time. While some historians attribute its inception to the Etruscans, our ancient ancestors who once thrived in the regions of Tuscany, Umbria, and Lazio, others point to the influence o f A n c i e n t G r e e c e : t h e Greeks had their own version of focaccia, known as plak- o u s , o f t e n f l a v o r e d w i t h herbs, onion, cheese, and gar- lic. Regardless of its disputed beginnings, what remains u n d e n i a b l e i s f o c a c c i a ' s Mediterranean soul—a per- fect blend of earthy olive oil, sea salt, and aromatic herbs. The etymology of the word "focaccia" itself is a poetic tribute to its storied past. Derived from the Latin panis focacius, the term translates to "hearth bread," evoking images of communal ovens where families would gather t o b a k e a n d s h a r e t h i s b e l o v e d f l a t b r e a d . A s t h e R o m a n l e g i o n s marched through Europe, c o n q u e r i n g l a n d s a n d expanding their empire, they carried panis focacius with them, so it quickly found its w a y i n t o t h e h e a r t s a n d hearths of diverse communi- t i e s , f r o m t h e s u n - k i s s e d coasts of Spain to the misty hills of Britannia. Originally crafted from a simple blend of flour, water, a generous dash of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt, focaccia was the epitome of culinary democracy: it was a bread for everyone—soldiers and sena- tors, peasants and patricians. Its humble ingredients made it accessible, yet its flavors were anything but ordinary: the olive oil lent it a rich, earthy aroma, while the salt added a subtle, palate-pleas- ing kick. The versatility of focaccia made it a staple in Roman diets: often torn by hand, its soft, porous texture made it ideal for soaking up the fla- CHIARA D'ALESSIO labyrinthine, cobblestone s t r e e t s o f G e n o a , w h e r e you'll find yourself irresistibly drawn to the intoxicating aroma wafting from local bak- eries. Here, focaccia trans- forms into fugassa, a Liguri- a n c u l i n a r y g e m t h a t encapsulates the region's love for simple, yet profoundly fla- vorful food. At first glance, fugassa m a y a p p e a r u n a s s u m i n g , often adorned with nothing more than a loving drizzle of golden olive oil and a delicate sprinkle of sea salt. But don't let its minimalist appearance deceive you because the Lig- urians have perfected the art of balance, achieving a texture that is nothing short of a mas- terpiece—crispy and golden on the outside, while remain- ing soft, airy, and almost pil- lowy on the inside. The secret to this textural marvel lies in the region's rich culinary traditions: olive oil, a staple in Ligurian cuisine, is not merely an ingredient but a character in fugassa's story. The oil seeps into the dough, enriching it with a depth of flavor and aroma that is quin- tessentially Mediterranean. The sea salt, harvested from the Ligurian coast, adds a d e l i g h t f u l a n d s a t i s f y i n g punch to this simple culinary pleasure. Ligurians are very j e a l o u s o f t h e i r f u g a s s a , which they even eat for break- fast, dunked into their cap- puccino: no one makes it like them and, for the love of God, do not call it pizza bianca in front of them! But focaccia is far from a monolithic entity: there are many varieties and regional types. In the already-men- tioned Liguria, focaccia often comes topped with olives or — a personal favorite of mine — with loads of onions; of course, there is also focaccia di Recco, the iconic IGP deli- cacy made with prescinseua. In Tuscany, it takes on an aromatic persona, infused with sprigs of rosemary that dance atop its golden crust. Journey south to Puglia, and you'll encounter a sun-kissed version adorned with cherry tomatoes, their sweetness intensified by the heat of the oven. But focaccia's versatility doesn't end with savory ren- ditions. In certain regions, it transforms into a sweet treat, e m b e l l i s h e d w i t h p l u m p raisins, a drizzle of honey, and even zesty lemon peel. In t h e P i e d m o n t e s e c i t y o f Alessandria, sweet focaccia is simply made by adding sugar t o t h e d o u g h a n d o n t o p instead of salt. These sweet variations serve as delightful desserts or snacks, perfect for those moments when you crave a touch of sweetness without overwhelming your palate. Today, our humble focac- cia has transcended its Italian roots to become a culinary ambassador on the global stage: in Spain, it turns into pan de hogaza, a rustic bread that shares focaccia's love for olive oil. Across the border in France, it takes on the elegant moniker of fougasse, often enriched with ingredi- e n t s l i k e o l i v e s a n d anchovies. And, in the ever-evolving landscape of modern cuisine, focaccia has gracefully adapt- ed: no longer just a simple bread to be torn and shared, it has become a versatile can- vas for culinary innovation. Artisanal sandwich shops are elevating their offerings by using focaccia as a sumptu- ous base, its airy crumb and olive oil richness comple- menting a variety of fillings. Additionally, focaccia has found a place in the world of dips and spreads, serving as the perfect vehicle for flavors ranging from creamy hum- mus to spicy aioli. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES vors of soups and stews. It was an integral part of the m e a l , a t o o l f o r s a v o r i n g every last drop of Roman culinary excellence! In this light, one can see how focac- cia was a bit of a social equal- izer: the act of breaking bread was a communal affair, a moment that transcended social hierarchies and united people around a common table. Whether it was shared a m o n g s o l d i e r s a r o u n d a campfire or served at lavish feasts in Roman villas, focac- cia became, just like bread, a symbol of communal eating a n d o f t h e R o m a n e t h o s of convivium—living and eat- ing together. Let's fast forward in time and move from Rome to the Fragrant focaccia topped with rosemary is typical of Tuscany (Photo: Annashepulova/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED From Etruria to Genova: the timeless and tasty journey of focaccia

• Cover