L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16 2023 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano T he humble chick- pea, a small yet mighty legume, has quietly shaped the culinary land- scape of the Mediterranean for millennia. Its story is woven into the very history of the re- gion itself, in a narrative of civilizations rising and falling, trade routes, and cultural ex- changes. With their unassum- ing appearance chickpeas have been a staple in Mediter- ranean diets since ancient times, prized for their versa- tility, nutritional value, and the ease with which they grow in the region's varied climates. They found their way into a myriad of dishes, from hum- mus to the more intricate falafel, showcasing their abil- ity to adapt and flourish in di- verse culinary traditions. But in our beloved coun- try, chickpeas are known and loved also for their flour. M a d e b y g r i n d i n g d r i e d beans, it possesses a unique flavor and texture that lends itself to an array of culinary creations. The versatility of chickpea flour is particu- larly evident in the assort- ment of regional dishes that evolved around it, each dis- tinct in character yet linked by their shared main ingredi- ent. L e a d i n g t h e p a r a d e o f these chickpea flour-based d e l i c a c i e s i s f a r i n a t a . I admit that farinata holds a s p e c i a l p l a c e i n m y h e a r t because, while growing up, I would watch my father skill- fully prepare it in our stone oven, alongside pizza and focaccia. These moments left an indelible mark on me and transformed farinata into both a favorite food and a cherished childhood memo- ry. This simple, yet delec- table dish, hailing from Lig- uria, exemplifies the rustic elegance of Italian cuisine, where minimal ingredients, when combined with tradi- t i o n a l c o o k i n g m e t h o d s , yield unsurpassable flavors. Truly, farinata is steeped in history and simplicity. This golden-brown delicacy likely has Roman roots, but legend has it that its inven- tion came later, in 1284, and FRANCESCA BEZZONE ter and then baked in large, r o u n d c o p p e r p a n s i n a wood-fired oven. The cook- i n g t e c h n i q u e i s c r u c i a l , yielding a crispy exterior and a creamy interior, striking a perfect balance of textures. Farinata is both gluten-free and vegan so, it's really per- fect for most. While the fun- damental recipe of farinata is consistent across Liguria, regional variations add local flair. In some areas, rose- mary or onions are added for extra aroma and flavor, while others might finish it with a sprinkle of black pepper or a drizzle of olive oil, enhancing its rustic appeal. I n t e r e s t i n g l y , a n d v e r y much in line with Ligurian culture, which has always been based on sea trade and communications, farinata's charm extends beyond Lig- urian borders, influencing Mediterranean cuisines in other areas. But just like the bean from which it is made, chickpea flour is a staple in Mediter- ranean cuisines, too, which gives rise to an array of dish- es across the Belpaese and b e y o n d . S t a r t i n g i n T u s - cany, we encounter cecina, a close relative to Liguria's farinata: like farinata, ceci- na is made from a straight- forward mixture of chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt. Baked in a hot oven, it e m e r g e s a s a t h i n , c r i s p y pancake, often enjoyed sim- ply, sometimes with a sprin- kle of black pepper. Its sim- plicity is its hallmark, which very much reflects the Tus- can ethos of using quality ingredients to create unpre- tentious, flavorful dishes. Crossing into France, in t h e s u n - d r e n c h e d c i t y o f Nice, we find socca, a per- fect symbol of the transcul- t u r a l j o u r n e y o f c h i c k p e a flour. Socca is the same as farinata and cecina in its basic composition and cook- i n g m e t h o d b u t i s o f t e n served with a more generous h e l p i n g o f b l a c k p e p p e r , aligning with local tastes. Enjoyed hot and fresh from street vendors, socca is a beloved snack, embodying the casual, convivial spirit of Niçoise cuisine. Back in Liguria, panissa o f f e r s a d i f f e r e n t t a k e o n chickpea flour. In this varia- tion, the flour is cooked into a thick porridge before being left to set. Once firm, it's cut into pieces and fried, result- ing in a snack that's crisp on the outside and soft inside. This textural contrast sets panissa apart from its baked counterparts; in Genoa, it's a popular street food, often enjoyed as a quick, satisfying bite. Intriguingly, Nice also h a s i t s v e r s i o n , p a n i s s e , reflecting the shared culinary heritage across the Ligurian Sea. Our journey culminates in Sicily with panelle, a dish that holds a mirror to the island's incredible history. Believed to have Arabic ori- gins, panelle are small chick- pea fritters, seasoned with salt, pepper, and parsley. They're typically fried until golden and served either on their own or as a filling for sandwiches, notably in the iconic pane e panelle, a staple of Palermo's street food scene. Panelle encapsu- late Sicily's ability to inte- grate diverse influences into its cuisine to create some- thing both distinctive and deeply rooted in the island's culinary identity. From farinata to panelle, these dishes, while united by their main ingredient, tell a story of regional identity and c u l i n a r y i n g e n u i t y . T h e y demonstrate how an unpre- t e n t i o u s i n g r e d i e n t l i k e chickpea flour can be the foundation for a rich array of traditional pietanze, each connected with the flavors and history of its region. At t h e s a m e t i m e , t h e y a l s o embody the simplicity and ingenuity of Mediterranean cuisine, where each ingredi- ent tells a story and illus- trates how anything, even the simplest bean, can be elevated into something both culturally significant and delicious. The journey of farinata from simple sailor food to an icon of Ligurian cuisine is shared by all of its "cousins" around the peninsula and underscores the enduring appeal of Italian cuisine: a celebration of simplicity and quality to create dishes that a r e , a t o n c e , h u m b l e a n d truly extraordinary. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES it was a serendipitous event: a m i d a s t o r m , G e n o e s e sailors accidentally mixed chickpeas with oil and salt- water so, in an attempt to salvage their provisions, they spread this mixture to dry, inadvertently creating the precursor to farinata. Others s u g g e s t R o m a n s o l d i e r s might have roasted chickpea flour on their shields, con- tributing to its origin story. The essence of farinata lies in its modest ingredients - chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt. These elements are combined into a thin bat- Slices of farinata garnished with rosemary (Photo: Anton Ivanov/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Farinata and beyond: exploring chickpea flour dishes in Italy

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