L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30 2023 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano I t h i n k t h a t , w h e n i t comes to Italian food abroad, lasagne com e s s e c o n d o n l y t o pizza in popularity, and it's easy to understand why: this comforting, flavor- some dish is very versatile and adaptable, and it's per- fect to be made in batches and frozen, so it's also a great option if you are the busy t y p e , w h e t h e r y o u h a v e a family or not. The concept of lasagne can be traced back to ancient c u l i n a r y t r a d i t i o n s : in Ancient Greece, there was a dish known as l a g a n o n , made from flat, unleavened b r e a d d o u g h s l i c e d i n t o s t r i p s . W h i l e t h i s w a s n ' t lasagne in the modern sense, it introduced the fundamen- tal idea of layering ingredi- e n t s . I n G r e e k c u l t u r e , l a g a n o n s i m p l y meant layers of pasta and s a u c e , t h o u g h i t r e f e r r e d more to the method of prepa- ration rather than the ingre- dients. The millennia-old his- t o r y o f l a s a g n e i s a l s o supported by archaeological evidence: remarkable 4th century BC Etruscan frescoes in the Tomba dei Rilievi near Rome depict the basic tools and ingredients for pasta- making and banquets where a v e r s i o n o f l a s a g n a w a s enjoyed . W h e n t h i s c o n c e p t reached the Romans, they adapted it into lasanum, but be careful, because initially this word described not the food itself, but the cooking pot in which it was prepared; then, over time, the name of the dish gradually began to be associated with the food p r e p a r e d i n the lasanum rather than just the pot itself. The Roman version of lasagne was akin to a baked casserole, incorpo- rating their culinary prefer- ences and ingredients, and it was more about a hearty, oven-baked meal, rather than the pasta-based dish we are f a m i l i a r w i t h t o d a y . While lasanum did lay the groundwork for the layered concept of lasagne, it was still q u i t e d i f f e r e n t f r o m o u r modern dish, as it lacked key ingredients like tomatoes, which were introduced to FRANCESCA BEZZONE iar to us, because it involved layering sheets of dough, akin to pasta, with cheese and spices. However, it's impor- t a n t t o n o t e t h a t t h i s medieval lasagne was still distinct from the version we enjoy today. A key difference w a s , s t i l l , t h e a b s e n c e o f tomatoes. Plus, the ingredi- ents used in medieval lasagne w e r e a r e f l e c t i o n o f t h e diverse culinary influences in Italy at the time: for instance, the use of raisins and spices was likely inspired by trade w i t h t h e M i d d l e E a s t a n d North Africa. These ingredi- ents provided a sweet and spicy flavor profile, quite dif- ferent from the savory taste of contemporary lasagne. O v e r t i m e , a s c u l i n a r y practices evolved and new ingredients became available, lasagne continued to develop and, of course, the introduc- tion of tomatoes to Italian cuisine was a game-changer, leading to the creation of the tomato-based sauces that are integral to modern lasagne. The regional variations within Italy contributed to the diversification of lasagne recipes, with different areas developing their unique takes o n t h e d i s h . I n E m i l i a - Romagna, particularly in Bologna, we find the interna- tionally renowned lasagne alla bolognese: this ver- sion is quintessentially Ital- i a n , f e a t u r i n g f l a t , b r o a d sheets of pasta layered with a rich Bolognese sauce, known as ragù. This slow-cooked meat sauce, which usually limits or omits the use of tomatoes in favor of a meat- centric flavor, is harmonious- l y b l e n d e d w i t h c r e a m y béchamel sauce and topped with a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The region's abundant agri- c u l t u r a l p r o d u c e a n d r e n o w n e d d a i r y p r o d u c t s explain the use of these rich i n g r e d i e n t s , c r e a t i n g a lasagne that is both hearty and refined. Moving south to Campania, the lasagne alla napoletana offers a more elaborate and festive take on the dish. Here, the layers of pasta are intermin- g l e d w i t h l o c a l s a u s a g e s , s m a l l m e a t b a l l s , r i c o t t a cheese, hard-boiled eggs, and Neapolitan ragù, which is rich in tomatoes and echoes the region's own love affair with this fruit as well as its hearty culinary traditions. Usually prepared for Carnevale, the festive season before Lent, this version is a celebration of abundance and truly cap- tures the exuberant spirit of Naples. In the coastal region o f L i g u r i a , l a s a g n e a l pesto presents a delightful c h a n g e : i n p l a c e o f m e a t sauces, this variant is charac- terized by layers of pasta coated in a fresh, aromatic pesto, which is made from t h e r e g i o n ' s f a m e d b a s i l , along with pine nuts, Parmi- giano-Reggiano, Pecorino cheese, garlic, and olive oil. Occasionally, potatoes and g r e e n b e a n s a r e a d d e d , bringing a fresh but filling dimension to a lasagna that is lighter than its meat-based cousins, but showcases the fresh flavors of the Mediter- ranean to the full. O n t h e i s l a n d o f S a r - d i n i a , l a s a g n e a i c a r - ciofi reflects the island's rugged terrain and pastoral traditions: artichokes, a sta- ple in Sardinian cuisine, take center stage in this variant, often accompanied by pecori- no cheese and sometimes local sausages or lamb. The artichokes lend a unique, slightly sweet, and nutty fla- vor to the lasagne, creating a dish that is both comforting and distinctively Sardinian. F i n a l l y , i n S i c i l y , t h e lasagne al forno incorpo- rates ingredients like egg- plants, ricotta, hard-boiled eggs, and sometimes a sweet, spiced minced meat filling. This version speaks to the island's complex history and diverse culinary influences, including Arabic, while the inclusion of eggplants and ricotta is typical of Sicilian cuisine. Let's face it, lasagne is like the cool superhero of Italian dishes. It's got a history that dives back to ancient times, a n d l i k e a c u l i n a r y chameleon, it's been rein- venting itself every few cen- turies. From its early days in G r e e c e a n d R o m e t o i t s medieval glow-up, lasagne has been the "cool kid" on the I t a l i a n m e n u b l o c k , w a y before pizza ever tossed its first dough. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Europe only after the discov- ery of the Americas. During the Middle Ages, lasagne began to take a form closer to what we recognize today. One of the earliest documented recipes resem- bling their modern incarna- tion is found in the 14th-cen- tury Neapolitan cookbook, Liber de Coquina (The Book of Cooking), which is a n i n c r e d i b l e s o u r c e f o r medieval culinary practices and the gastronomic prefer- ences of that era. Its lasagne recipe marks a departure from the Roman-style casse- role dish, moving towards a layered structure more famil- A slice of delicious, flavorsome lasagne (Photo: Isabel Poulin/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Lasagne: from Ancient Rome to modern Italy, they are the best comfort food!

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