L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano I n Naples, the Christ- mas season is marked by a delightful array of sweets, with roc- cocò standing out as a traditional favorite. These treats, which share the spot- light with other popular fes- tive delights like struffoli, r a f f i o l i , m o s t a c c i o l i , a n d susamielli, are essential to the festive atmosphere in Neapolitan homes. C h a r a c t e r i z e d b y t h e i r donut-like shape, roccocò cookies combine almonds, flour, sugar, candied fruits, and an aromatic blend of spices known locally as pisto napoletano. They are baked to achieve a distinctive tex- ture, typically quite firm, though nowadays softer ver- s i o n s a r e a l s o a v a i l a b l e . Often, they are dipped in vermouth, sparkling wine, white wine, or Marsala to s o f t e n t h e m a n d e n h a n c e t h e i r f l a v o r . W e w i l l t a l k more about it all in just a few paragraphs. The creation of roccocò dates back to the early 14th century, with the nuns of N a p l e s ' R e a l C o n v e n t o della Maddalena credited for the original recipe. In those times, convents were centers of culinary excel- lence, particularly in confec- tionery, as demonstrated by other convent-born desserts, like cannoli and cassata. The nuns, skilled in the art of pastry making, often turned to their kitchens to create sweets and pastries, which served dual purposes: they were a means of income for the convents and also acted as festive treats, bringing joy and sweetness to religious celebrations. The creation of roccocò was a reflection of this tradition. T h e e t y m o l o g y o f t h e name "roccocò" is a subject of linguistic debate and his- torical curiosity. There are two main theories about its FRANCESCA BEZZONE f i r s t o n e , a s s o c i a t i n g t h e name with the French term for rock, tends to be more widely accepted and certain- l y r e f l e c t s t h e c u l t u r a l exchanges and influences that have shaped Neapolitan culinary traditions over the centuries. Neapolitan families tradi- tionally begin making roc- cocò on December 8th, the day of the Immaculate Con- c e p t i o n , a n d c o n t i n u e t o enjoy them throughout the Christmas period. Making roccocò is not as simple as it m a y s e e m , b e c a u s e i t requires skill and precision, particularly in baking: the g o a l i s t o a c h i e v e a c r i s p exterior and a soft interior – a delicate balance that, if missed, can result in cookies t o o h a r d f o r c o m f o r t a b l e enjoyment. The choice to associate roccocò with Christmas was not arbitrary: the festive sea- son in Naples, known for its vibrancy and deep-rooted traditions, called for some- thing special, something that could capture the essence of the celebration, and last for the full length of the season, and roccocò fit this role per- f e c t l y : i t s i n g r e d i e n t s b r o u g h t t o m i n d t h e f r a - grances and flavors of Win- t e r , w h i l e i t s w i s e m i x o f ingredient and crunchy tex- ture meant it could easily last until the Epifania. And then, it was - and still is! - something easy to share with friends and family, a symbol of communal joy and festivi- ty. The ingredients of roc- cocò are key for its taste but also for its history and cul- tural significance. Almonds are a primary component, valued for their rich flavor and nutritional value: they are often baked and then coarsely chopped or ground, contributing to the cookie's distinctive tex- ture. The inclusion of can- died orange peel, another key ingredient, pays homage t o t h e a b u n d a n t c i t r u s g r o v e s o f t h e C a m p a n i a r e g i o n , a d d i n g a u n i q u e sweet-tart flavor profile to the biscuit. Spices play a crucial role in roccocò's flavor: a mix of c i n n a m o n , n u t m e g , a n d sometimes clove powder and ginger, known as pisto napo- letano, is used to create a w a r m a n d f e s t i v e a r o m a . This spice blend, along with the use of flour, sugar, and e g g s , h o l d s t h e c o o k i e together and provides the structure and sweetness that characterize roccocò. Inter- estingly, some recipes may substitute allspice if pisto is n o t a v a i l a b l e , i n d i c a t i n g adaptability in the recipe while maintaining its tradi- tional essence. As we said, roccocò is tra- ditionally consumed during t h e C h r i s t m a s s e a s o n , a practice that begins as early as December 8th, coinciding with the feast of the Immac- ulate Conception. But how are they usually enjoyed? The cookies are hard and dry a n d a r e i n t e n d e d t o b e dipped into liqueur or wine a t t h e e n d o f t h e m e a l , enhancing their flavor and texture, a bit like Tuscan cantucci. For a classic, old- style contrast, try them with a robust, fruity red wine, s l i g h t l y w a r m e r t h a n t h e usual serving temperature: it's a combination that hear- kens back to a simpler, less refined era, yet its execution remains impeccable in its simplicity. In more modern adapta- tions, limoncello has been welcomed into the pairing, introducing a stronger, cit- rusy twist that enhances the experience. However, the ultimate companion for roc- cocò is undoubtedly sweet, a r o m a t i c d e s s e r t w i n e s : these rich, fortified wines, s u c h a s M a r s a l a , a r e a favorite among traditional- ists. Dipping roccocò into a glass of Marsala is like jump- ing back to the era of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, in a blend of gastronomy and history. And as you may expect from a cookie with such an i n t e r e s t i n g p e d i g r e e a n d long history, there are plenty of curiosities to learn about it, starting with the way they are made: while traditional recipes remain popular, con- t e m p o r a r y v a r i a t i o n s , including chocolate-coated roccocò or versions with dif- ferent nuts, are also com- mon, which shows the ulti- m a t e v e r s a t i l i t y o f t h e original cookie, which can be modified without losing its essence and character. LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES origin: the first suggests it is a refined distortion of the French word rocaille, which means "rock," a reflection, perhaps, of the cookie's hard texture. The second theory links the name to the orna- m e n t a l R o c o c ò s t y l e — spelled with a single "C" — that evolved in France as a progression from Baroque in the 18th century. Rococò was known for its elaborate and ornate characteristics, which could be seen as parallel to t h e e l a b o r a t e n a t u r e o f the roccocò cookie. Among these interpretations, the Neapolitan roccocò (Photo: Antonio Gravante/Dreamstime) OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Roccocò, the taste of Christmas in Naples

• Cover