L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 11, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE aftertaste. Pass the Vitello Tonnato next. Showcasing cold, thinly sliced veal driz- zled with a tuna, mayonnaise, and caper sauce, this dish's sum is greater than its pecu- l i a r p a r t s . S o m e h o w t h e unique combination works, creating an explosion of fla- vors to whet the appetite. And we must have cheese. Perhaps a fresh Robiola di Roccaverano, an herb-y goat cheese found only here, o r t h e h e a r t i e r F o n t i n a d'Aosta melted fondue-style a n d b l e n d e d w i t h b u t t e r , eggs, and truffles. Save room for one more selection – Sal- siccia di Bra. This recog- nized veal sausage must be produced under strict criteria and is generally eaten raw. Get your taste here; it's only available local to its produc- tion. Even if tomatoes aren't stars in Piemonte, pasta is. For an unforgettable primo o r d e r u p f r e s h l y m a d e Agnolotti del Plin. The "plin" means "to pinch"—per- haps a suggestion to self- inflict one since these are so dreamy delicious. Creating them is quite laborious. No l a r g e r t h a n a t h u m b n a i l , these small ravioli-type pock- fully appreciate the lengthy list of Piemonte's consumable joys, but experiencing the top contenders is a worthy and doable goal. My advice: aim for traditional specialty items found only here, many with DOP status. What would that look like? Obviously, it depends on who you ask, but let's focus on w h a t m a n y c o n s i d e r Piemonte's Pro List – the top traditional offerings easily found on most Piedmontese menus! For imagination's sake, we'll explore as if seated together, ready for communal indulgence. Hope you're hun- gry! Antipasti choices are vast, but we'll focus on the most traditional. First up…Bagna Cauda. This savory concoc- tion is a whirred blend of anchovies, loads of garlic, and olive oil. While it doesn't sound very local, this ages- old peasant dish bears wit- ness to Piemonte's ancient trade with coastal and south- ern regions. Created to cele- brate the harvest, raw vegeta- b l e s a n d r u s t i c b r e a d a r e plunged into the hot, creamy mixture which if prepared properly, should taste salty- savory-good with no fishy ets must be carefully pinched together and folded just-so. Much less precise is the fill- ing which can be anything from meat to vegetables to rice. Tajarin is a must-try, as well. Delicate, long ribbons of saffron-colored pasta require 40 egg yolks per batch; not very artery-friendly, but one must indulge here and there. Sauce of choice is rich melted butter (sorry, arteries) laced with another Piemonte star – truffles from Alba. Fall brings the celebrated white t r u f f l e t o t h e t a b l e , t h e world's most expensive fungi, but the more common black harvested in summer months is a lavish treat, as well. The main course awaits, and life would be incomplete without a plate of Brasato al Barolo. Beef from the exclu- sive Piedmontese cattle is lean, yet high in flavor. Slow braised in Barolo wine, herbs, and vegetables until fork-ten- der, the memory of this taste treat will linger long. For the more adventurous, a few tra- d i t i o n a l d i s h e s r e v o l v e around the creative use of livestock offal such as Bolli- to Misto, a mixture of boiled parts, or Finanziera, slowly simmered entrails. The evening closes delight- f u l l y w i t h a t r a d i t i o n a l dolce…or three. Go for the flirty Baci di Dama (Ladie's K i s s e s ) m a d e w i t h s m a l l hazelnut cookies held togeth- e r i n a k i s s b y a l a y e r o f c h o c o l a t e . P r e f e r c a k e ? Try torta di nocciola, a cake made with Nocciola Piemontese IGP hazel- nuts and a lot of butter. And t h e r e m u s t b e b o n e t – a c r e a m y c h o c o l a t e " s p o o n dessert" rooted deep in Pied- montese tradition. W h i l e w e c a n ' t e x p l o r e Piemonte's stellar wines here – t h e r e g i o n i s w o r l d - renowned for its Barolo and Barbaresco red wines – suf- fice to say they are as memo- rable as the food. A region that would make Bacchus proud, Piemonte begs for connectivity with all six senses. Don't worry if you can't experience every trea- sure in one visit; memories will lure you back for more. M y s p r i n g t i c k e t s a r e booked! over olive oil and the luscious sauces could bring a Cordon Bleu chef to his knees. M a n y c u l i n a r y " f i r s t s " c a m e t o b e i n P i e m o n t e . Turin can take credit for the cocoa and hazelnut creation of gianduja, a key ingredi- ent in another homegrown champ, Nutella. Some of Italy's finest chocolates origi- nate here, as well. We can t h a n k T u r i n , t o o , f o r t h e invention of the espresso machines that slam out caf- feine to keep the country r u n n i n g . T h e g l o b a l l y e m b r a c e d S l o w F o o d Movement found its begin- nings in Piemonte – in Bra, specifically. Founder Carlo Petrini continued his mis- s i o n w i t h t h e o p e n i n g o f the University of Gastro- nomic Sciences (2004) in Pollenzo, Piemonte to pro- mote continued study of arti- sanal food production and p r e s e r v a t i o n . T h e M o v e - ment's mantra of grow local, sustainable farming, and appreciative eating could a p p l y t o P i e m o n t e ' s l o v e affair with food and wine, as well; it's special, it's revered, and it's to be cared for like family. It would take a lifetime to I ' v e e a t e n m y w a y t h r o u g h m a n y o f I t a l y ' s 2 0 r e g i o n s . Lovely lemon pasta in C a l a b r i a , f r i e d s e a creatures in Veneto, fabulous stuffed olives in Le Marche. I could ooze delight for days reimagining unforgettable food experiences in the Bel Paese. I had failed, however, to pay much attention to the u n p r e t e n t i o u s m e g a - s t a r r e g i o n o f f o o d a n d wine: Piemonte. With over 3 4 1 r e c o g n i z e d s p e c i a l t y items, Piemonte (or Pied- mont) is an outstanding des- tination for exquisite dining experiences and superior wines enjoyed amongst daz- zling natural beauty. While nigh to impossible to try all her specialties in one lifetime, I did an honorable m e n t i o n j o b o f s a m p l i n g some of Piemonte's most tra- ditional and revered dishes on a recent foray there. Take note, though: this is not what many Americans would think of as "Italian"; red sauce and pizza are relegated to the back seat. The terrestrial beauty of Piemonte is stiff competition for any of Italy's astounding landscapes. Breathtakingly beautiful, her panoramas cra- dle various niche microcli- mates that support all the goodness that grows here. The old phrase "location, l o c a t i o n , l o c a t i o n " f i t s Piemonte like a glove — and further explains the unique concentration of fabulous food and wine. Embraced by the Italian Alps along the French and Swiss borders, Piemonte is perfectly situated north of the Ligurian Sea where moist ocean air min- gles with cooler mountain temperatures. From the spec- tacular vineyards that spill over the Langhe region to the t r u f f l e a n d h a z e l n u t - r i c h inland forests to rolling acres of emerald pasture that nur- t u r e s h e e p a n d c o w s , Piemonte is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach. There's a definite French feel to the cuisine here, as well. Butter lords PAULA REYNOLDS The gastronomic joys of Piemonte, Italy's culinary treasure trove Brasato al Barolo and, bottom right, wheels of delicious cheese, two things Piemonte is well known for (Photos: Enrico Cicarelli/Dreamstime; Mauro Marletto/Dreamstime)

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