L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano W a l k t h e q u i e t s t o n e s t r e e t s of Lucig- nano and it's easy to see why it was named one of the m o s t b e a u t i f u l t o w n s i n Italy. This small fortified vil- lage in Tuscany, not far from Arezzo, is famous not only for its cultural and historical significance but also for its efforts to preserve and pro- mote an authentic way of life. The Beautiful Towns of Italy initiative, I Borghi p i ù B e l l i d ' I t a l i a , w a s started in 2001 to preserve and maintain villages that exemplify extraordinary his- toric and cultural heritage. I n 2 0 2 3 , t h e r e w e r e 3 4 9 such towns in Italy, with 29 in Tuscany, including Lucig- nano. Each has unique char- acteristics. Lucignano's beautifully preserved streets and walls date from the Middle Ages, when the village occupied a s t r a t e g i c p o s i t i o n o n t h e main road between Siena and Arezzo. But its history goes back much farther than that: Lucignano dates back to the Etruscan era. Its pre- s e n t - d a y n a m e i s s a i d t o derive from a Roman family called Licini who owned vast tracts of land outside the town. But charming streets and fortified walls are common t h r o u g h o u t I t a l y . W h a t makes Lucignano so special? The village offers one of the m o s t e x t r a o r d i n a r y a n d intact examples of medieval concentric town planning. Seen from above, the town streets wind around a cen- tral core, a kind of circular maze. These "ring roads" lead to the heart of the vil- lage and its highest point, Piazza del Tribunale. During the Middle Ages, the outer ring of streets and alleys – the most vulnerable a n d e x p o s e d t o a t t a c k — housed laborers, small shop- keepers and artisans. The interior concentric circle, which was on higher ground and offered more protection, was home to the wealthy. Even today, it's easy to spot the distinctions between the exterior ("poor") and interi- or ("rich") neighborhoods. I n f a c t , L u c i g n a n o ' s V i a Roma used to be called Poor Street. In the 1300s, while under the rule of Siena, Lucignano was fortified with stone and b r i c k w a l l s a n d t o w e r s . T h r e e g a t e s s t i l l r e m a i n : P o r t a S . G i u s t o , P o r t a S . Giovanni and Porta Murata. In the 1370s, when the town was placed under the rule of F l o r e n c e , t h e R o c c a , a fortress attributed to archi- t e c t B a r t o l o B a r t o l i , w a s built against the town wall for additional fortification. In the inner concentric ring at the town's center sits Lucignano's main square, Piazza del Tribunale. There visitors will find three strik- ing buildings each worth a v i s i t : C h u r c h o f S a n F r a n c e s c o , C o l l e g i a t e C h u r c h o f S a n M i c h e l e Arcangelo and the town hall, or Palazzo Comunale, which houses a museum as well as the town's municipal offices. T h e C h u r c h o f S a n Francesco, begun in 1248, is easily recognized by its dis- tinctive Gothic façade made of travertine and local sand- stone, a style clearly influ- enced by the ruling city-state of Siena. It has a beautiful travertine doorway and a rose window in sandstone. F r e s c o e s a d o r n t h e church interior, including the well-known Triumph of Death by the artist Bartolo di Fredi. This 14th-century fresco shows the muscular r o b u s t f i g u r e o f D e a t h astride a galloping horse, wielding a bow and arrow with a scythe tucked into his belt. His black horse tram- ples the dead souls under its feet while Death takes aim at a g r o u p o f y o u n g n o b l e s , w h o t h e m s e l v e s a r e o u t hunting. Behind Death are several individuals who are ill and infirm, begging for release from their miserable lives. The figure of Christ oversees the dramatic scene below as he invites church- goers to meditate on life and death. On the opposite side of the square is the Renais - s a n c e - s t y l e C o l l e g i a t e C h u r c h o f S a n M i c h e l e A r c a n g e l o . T h e o r i g i n a l c h u r c h w a s d e s t r o y e d b y lightning during a violent storm in 1556. When rebuilt i n t h e 1 7 0 0 s , t h e c h u r c h i n c o r p o r a t e d a n e x t e r i o r front staircase whose dis- tinctive elliptical style mir- rors the circular layout of the village streets. The town hall, built in the 13th century, is home to the municipal museum, display- i n g s o m e o f L u c i g n a n o ' s treasures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, including artwork and fres- coes. Its most well-known w o r k i s t h e g i l d e d a n d b e j e w e l e d T r e e o f Life (L'albero Della Vita). Standing nearly three feet tall, the tree incorporates coral branches, translucent enamels, rock crystals and other decorative elements. Begun in 1350 and complet- ed more than a century later, the tree has circular medal- l i o n s h a n g i n g f r o m i t s b r a n c h e s t h a t o n c e c o n - tained holy relics. In 1914, this magnificent a r t i f a c t w a s s t o l e n a n d found three years later in a c a v e , d i s a s s e m b l e d a n d damaged. The perpetrators were never caught. It was restored and placed on dis- play. Although this type of religious artifact used to be q u i t e c o m m o n i n a n c i e n t times, there are few exam- ples left. Lucignano's Tree of Life is notable for its size, complexity and grandeur. What's a small town in I t a l y w i t h o u t a f e s t i v a l ? Lucignano is no exception. Each May, Lucignano cele- brates the arrival of summer with a flower festival, called the Maggiolata. For about 10 days, the town is abloom with flowers — along village streets and narrow alley- ways, atop private balconies and archways. It's the most i m p o r t a n t f e s t i v a l o f t h e year for the town's 3,500 inhabitants and has been held most years since 1937. During the Maggiolata, Lucignano's four districts build flower-covered floats that are taken through the streets accompanied by farm carts, marching bands and folk groups from throughout Italy. Each float competes f o r t h e h o n o r o f b e i n g named the most beautiful float of the year, winning the Golden Griffin award. Dur- ing the Maggiolata, visitors can enjoy the festivities and sample some of the special- ties of the local cuisine, such as pici (the local pasta spe- c i a l t y ) , b r u s c h e t t a , p a n - zanella and Chianina beef. Nearby places of interest include Cortona, Castiglion Fiorentino and Arezzo. Thousands of visitors flock to Lucignano each May for its spring flower festival, the Maggiolata, where floats, music and folk groups parade through the streets (Photo: Maggiolata Lucignanese); bottom right, Lucignano's winding streets (Photo: Rita Cipalla). RITA CIPALLA ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Lucignano: the pearl of the Valdichiana

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