L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano W h a t ' s a b r e a k f a s t w i t h o u t b a c o n ? And a car- bonara without guanciale or a deli plate without Italian pancetta? I am sure we all agree on the ubiquitous pres- ence of these three flavorful salumi in the kitchen, but it can all become confusing. Ital- ians dreaming of American- style brunch wonder if they can even find true bacon at their local butcher or super- market, and we all debate — on both sides of the Atlantic — on whether we can or cannot use pancetta in carbonara. Now, while I do not wish nor am I going to try and set this particular diatribe, I think I can help make some clarity about the differences and sim- ilarities between the three: in the end, there is nothing some good, old-fashioned research can't achieve. Pancetta, guanciale, and bacon are three types of cured pork, each offering its unique flavor and texture to many dishes, from classic Italian p a s t a t o h e a r t y A m e r i c a n breakfasts and casseroles. However, there is often confu- sion about the differences between them and when to use each in recipes. Pancetta is made from the belly of the pig, which is first cured with salt and a blend of spices such as black pepper, nutmeg, fennel, and sometimes garlic. The specific blend of spices can vary by region and producer, which allows for a range of flavors and local pancetta varieties around Italy: for example, p a n c e t t a f r o m E m i l i a - Romagna might include garlic and black pepper, while in other areas juniper berries or other spices could be predom- i n a n t . A f t e r t h e c u r i n g process, which can last for a week or more, the meat is thoroughly rinsed and then left to air-dry. Depending on the tradition, pancetta may be left in a flat piece (stesa) or rolled into a cylinder (arroto- lata) and then air-dried for several weeks to months. The rolling process is particularly common in northern Italy and adds a distinctive spiral pat- tern to the slices. The history of this salume is deeply rooted in Italian culi- nary tradition and is a reflec- tion of the broader history of charcuterie in the country; we know, for instance, that the practice of curing meat, par- ticularly pork, dates back to a n c i e n t R o m a n t i m e s , although the specific origins of pancetta itself are less docu- mented. When it comes to flavor, pancetta is known for its deli- cate balance of salty and sweet, with the spices provid- ing a subtle aromatic back- drop. Its fat melts away when cooked, which gives a rich "porky" flavor to dishes less s m o k y t h a n b a c o n . I t i s incredibly versatile in the kitchen, often used to add depth to soups, sauces, and pasta dishes: diced pancetta can be sautéed to create a fla- vorful base for dishes like risotto, or it can be wrapped around vegetables or meats before cooking to add mois- ture and flavor. Pancetta can also be sliced thin and eaten raw, similar to prosciutto, e s p e c i a l l y w h e n i t ' s f u l l y cured. Let us move to guanciale, which is made from pork jowl or cheeks cured with salt and sometimes a mix of spices and sugar. After curing, guanciale is air-dried for at least three w e e k s a n d u p t o s e v e r a l months, which allows it to develop a deep, complex taste: The fat content in guanciale is higher compared to pancetta or bacon, which results in a more profound and intense pork taste. Its texture is soft and tender, with the fat melt- ing rapidly when exposed to heat, releasing a bouquet of flavors difficult to find in other products. Historically, guanciale was a peasant food, born out of necessity and ingenuity; the curing process allowed fami- lies to preserve the meat for m o n t h s , p r o v i d i n g a r i c h source of fat and flavor for their dishes. When it comes to its use, we all know guanciale is the cornerstone of several classic Italian dishes, includ- ing Pasta all'Amatriciana, P a s t a a l l a G r i c i a , a n d , o f course, Pasta alla Carbonara. Its rich flavor is essential in these recipes because it offers a depth of taste hard to repli- cate with other ingredients. But don't you dare think that guanciale is only good for pasta! It can also be used to add flavor to stews, soups, and sautéed vegetables. The third element of our culinary triad, bacon, is most commonly made from pork belly but can also be prepared from side and back cuts of the animal. The meat is cured in a mixture of salt and sometimes s u g a r , a l o n g w i t h v a r i o u s other flavorings like maple, a p p l e w o o d , h i c k o r y , o r mesquite for smoking. The curing process can last from a few days to a week, after which t h e b a c o n i s t h o r o u g h l y washed and then smoked. It is this very process, which is not used for pancetta or guanciale, that gives bacon its character- istic flavor: smoky, salty, and slightly sweet, the intensity of which can vary depending on the type of wood used and the d u r a t i o n o f t h e s m o k i n g process. The history of bacon is one of the oldest among cured meats, with its origins tracing back to ancient China around 1500 BC, where pork bellies were first cured with salt. The practice spread throughout the ancient world, including to Europe, where it took on vari- ous forms. The word "bacon" itself originates from the Old Germanic root "*bak-", mean- ing "back," but came to be associated in the Middle Ages with the cured pork we know today. Bacon's uses in the kitchen are incredibly diverse, ranging from the breakfast table where i t ' s o f t e n s e r v e d f r i e d o r grilled, to its use in salads, sandwiches, and burgers for added flavor. It's also a popu- l a r i n g r e d i e n t i n b a k i n g , adding a savory contrast to sweet items like cupcakes or maple bacon donuts. Addi- tionally, bacon bits are used to enhance the flavor of soups, stews, and baked dishes. Bacon, pancetta, and guan- ciale: each offers distinct fla- vors and textures to culinary creations, thanks to the differ- ences in their preparation methods and the parts of the pork used. We love bacon for its smoky depth, and guan- ciale for its rich flavor; pancetta, with its subtle, smooth taste is versatile and delicious. Each of these iconic salumi has a special place in our kitchens, each for its very own characteristics. Knowing them better will help us select the most appropriate for every recipe, whether we are trying our hand at a well-tested clas- sic or creating our new signa- ture dish. Pancetta, guanciale, and bacon: all their secrets unveiled! GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Guanciale (above) is produced by curing pig jowls or cheeks (Photo: Alessio Orrù/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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