L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 2, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano into the modern age shaped Italian cuisine in profound ways, reflecting broader cul- tural and economic shifts. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Italy's diet saw a marked increase in the con- s u m p t i o n o f m e a t a n d dairy, influenced by the culi- nary practices of Central and Northern European popula- tions. However, this period a l s o w i t n e s s e d t h e b i r t h of regional cuisines as long-distance trade dimin- ished, and exotic products like dates became rare, only to reappear at the dawn of the modern age. The Middle Ages and Renaissance harbored a s k e p t i c i s m t o w a r d s n e w foods, which later became important in Italian culinary history. The eggplant, initial- l y d u b b e d m e l a i n s a n a (insane apple) due to its lim- ited popularity, eventually overcame its initial reception to star in iconic dishes like parmigiana. T h e a r r i v a l o f b i t t e r oranges, lemons, and chinot- t o i n I t a l y t h r o u g h A r a b influence in the 11th centu- ry, and sweet oranges in the pears, figs, pine nuts, chest- nuts, hazelnuts, plums, rasp- berries, strawberries, and b l a c k b e r r i e s . T h e R o m a n period introduced many new fruits to Italy, including cher- ries — brought back by the f a m e d g o u r m e t L u c i u s Licinius Lucullus from his campaigns in Asia; peaches f r o m P e r s i a ( h e n c e t h e i r Latin name, persica); pome- granates from Carthage; apri- cots from Greece and Arme- n i a ; m e l o n s ( t r e a t e d a s a vegetable and mixed with sal- ads), and watermelons from Egypt. Dates were particu- larly cherished by Roman cooks, featuring often in their elaborate recipes, although they had to be imported from Egypt and nearby regions due to Italy's unsuitable cli- mate. Almonds, document- ed first by Pliny the Elder in the first century AD, likely spread with increased con- tact with the Greek world. Moving further along in Italian history, we enter the M i d d l e A g e s a n d t h e n progress into the modern era. The evolution of fruits and vegetables from antiquity through the medieval period 15th century via Portuguese traders marked the begin- ning of a fruit revolution. Unlike other fruits and veg- etables, citrus fruits were immediately celebrated, ini- t i a l l y m o r e a s d e c o r a t i v e plants than for consumption. This era also saw the creation o f I t a l i a n a r a n c e r e , o r orangeries, a concept that spread throughout Europe. The Age of Exploration catalyzed a vast exchange of fruits and vegetables between continents, enriching Euro- pean, and specifically Italian, gastronomy with new vari- eties. Tomatoes, now a cor- nerstone of Italian cuisine, were initially met with indif- f e r e n c e i n E u r o p e d u e t o their low caloric content, only gaining popularity in the 19th century. Similarly, potatoes f a c e d s k e p t i c i s m u n t i l a famine in 18th-century Ger- many prompted their cultiva- t i o n , a n d t h e y w e r e o n l y appreciated in Italy a century later. In contrast, bell pep- pers were immediately liked, while chili peppers found their place in the popular cui- sine of Southern Italy by the 18th and 19th centuries, but not gaining national promi- nence until the 20th century. Other notable introduc- tions include the prickly pear, mistakenly thought to origi- nate from India but actually from America; the bergamot, which likely emerged from a mutation in Calabria during the 18th century; persim- mons, initially ornamental before being consumed; and mandarins, originally from China. This short culinary jour- ney showed the dynamic evo- lution of fruits and vegetables in Italian cuisine, with many modern varieties differing from their ancient counter- parts due to selective breed- ing for size, nutrition, pest resistance, and even aesthet- ics. This evolution reflects the ongoing interplay of cultural exchange, agricultural inno- vation, and gastronomic cre- ativity, shaping Italy's rich and delicious culinary tradi- tion! This article was inspired by a very interesting and exhaustive piece, Storia della Frutta e della Verdure nella Cucina Italiana, published online by Storia tra le Pagine (www.storiatralepagine.it) onions and lettuce, along with carrots, arugula, celery, c h a r d , l e e k s , a s p a r a g u s , cucumbers, thistles, arti- chokes, and even pumpkins of a variety different from the American ones, originally f r o m I n d i a . B r o c c o l i , a n indigenous vegetable of Italy, didn't gain recognition in Europe until the sixteenth century, whereas cauliflower found success during the Middle Ages. Herbs, though not veg- e t a b l e s , w e r e e x t e n s i v e l y used by Romans to season their dishes, with dill, cumin, marjoram, coriander, mastic, mallow, dandelion, borage, and chives being particularly common. The absence of ref- erences to herbs we associate t o d a y w i t h I t a l i a n a n d Mediterranean cooking, such as rosemary, sage, basil, and garlic, might not indicate a lack of use but rather their ubiquity, possibly making them too common for men- tion. Fruits were also crucial, with grapes and olives being indispensable for wine and oil production, respectively. R o m a n s e n j o y e d a p p l e s , O ne thing about Italian cuisine we can all agree on is that it is as rich and var- ied as its history weaving together as it does, flavors, traditions, and ingredients that evolved over millennia. At the heart of it all, we find fruit and vegetables, which have shaped the diet a n d c u l t u r e o f I t a l y f r o m ancient times to the modern era, often developing and changing along the passing of time, and based on connec- t i o n s a n d e x c h a n g e s w i t h other people and cultures, The ancient Italian diet was based on cereals, fruits, and vegetables, supplement- ed by legumes and a modest consumption of meat and fish. If it sounds familiar it's because it essentially laid the g r o u n d w o r k f o r w h a t i s known today as the Mediter- ranean diet. The temperate climate of Italy fostered a wide array of vegetables and fruit trees. However, it was during the Roman Empire era that horticultural vari- eties significantly diversified. Through trade with foreign peoples and military cam- paigns in the southeastern M e d i t e r r a n e a n , R o m a n s encountered new fruits that were soon incorporated into their banquet dishes, though not always in the ways we might expect. Ancient cookbooks and frequent mentions of food in Latin literature give us a remarkable insight into what was cultivated in Italy during R o m a n t i m e s : a m o n g t h e indigenous fruits and vegeta- bles that have been part of Italian cuisine since the first centuries BC, certain ones stand out for their promi- nence and historical signifi- c a n c e . C a b b a g e , f o r instance, held a special place: it was praised by Cato the Elder in his treatise De Agri Cultura (2nd century BC) for its medicinal properties, and it was considered a cure-all for ailments ranging from arthritis to wounds, with a recommendation for abun- d a n t c o n s u m p t i o n . O t h e r commonly used vegetables in R o m a n k i t c h e n s i n c l u d e d GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Fruit and veg through Italian history Herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, sage and mint have been part of our vegetable gardens since time immemori- al (Photo: Oksana Kiian/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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