L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano Jewels such as Marroni del Monfenera and Marrone di Combai hail from the province of Treviso, both characterized by their sweet flavor and versatile nature. To the west in Piedmont are found Marrone della Valle di Susa, a particular- ly crunchy nut utilized since Roman times as appetizers, side dishes, and desserts. Tuscany is rich in chest- nuts. Castagne del Monte Amiata grow prolifically in volcanic soil and are known as "bread of the poor" due to their many uses. Marrone di Caprese Michelangelo ( A r e z z o ) , w h o s e almond/vanilla aroma are perfect for the famous Mon- tebianco cake, are practi- cally royalty. The intense sweet flavor of Marrone del Mugello (Florence) have served as a tasty and nutritious ingredient for cen- turies. And any variety roast- ed on an open fire is heaven- ly snacking on a crisp fall day. A l m o n d s , o t h e r w i s e known as mandorle, are as much a Sicilian staple as the i n e P r o t e t t a (Protected Designation Origin) guaran- teeing the purity and origin of the product, as well as the exceptional taste that makes them so valued. Most travelers consider local flavors a big part of the experience, myself included. Italy is rather large, though, so where to go to experience these shelled delicacies? It would take at least a dedicat- ed month to experience all exclusive growing territories, and travel isn't an option for everyone. No worries – the stable nature of nuts makes getting your hands on them a n y w h e r e i n I t a l y , a u naturelle or in a chosen dish, relatively doable year 'round. If in Italy, however, especial- ly in autumn, visiting any of the growing regions at the height of harvest is a definite treat. A short-list of ideas might come in handy… F i r s t u p – t h e s h i n y mahogany colored chestnut… a delight synonymous with f a l l i n I t a l y . C e n t r a l a n d northern Italy support some o f t h e u l t i m a t e c h e s t n u t g r o w i n g d e n o m i n a t i o n s . i s l a n d ' s c o l o r f u l d o n k e y carts. Somewhere between 80 – 90% of Italy's almonds are grown here and provide the basis for many desserts and liquors. If you've ever eaten an Italian confection, chances are you've eaten a S i c i l i a n a l m o n d i n s o m e s h a p e o r f o r m ! S e e k o u t amaretti cookies, biancoc- mangiare (Sicilian almond pudding), marzipan shaped as colorful fruit, or lemon- infused almond paste cook- ies, especially if in Sicily. Col- orfully coated almonds called c o n f e t t i a r e p o p u l a r throughout Italy for wed- d i n g s , b a p t i s m s , a n d a n y event where the good luck they bring is welcome. Most almond orchards are found in the province of Siracusa w h e r e h a r v e s t s b e g i n i n w a r m s u m m e r m o n t h s . Apulia is also famed for its A l m o n d s d i T o r i t t o . Hearty and capable growers, t h e l o w m a i n t e n a n c e almonds provide a versatile intense flavor. The last nut in this brief spotlight is Italy's hazelnut… the delectable star of gian- duja (hazelnut and cocoa paste), Nutella, and many f a m o u s l i q u o r s s u c h a s Frangelico. Italy's prized varietals grow from north to south — Piedmont (Noccio- l a d e l P i e m o n t e ) , R o m e ( N o c c i o l a R o m a n a ) , a n d Salerno (Nocciola di Gif- foni) are three hotspots. Each produce exceptional hazel- n u t s , b u t N o c c i o l a d e l Piemonte are best known for their star role in sweets a n d i n t e n s e f l a v o r a n d aroma. Along with harvesting, fall also brings joyous sagras — food festivals and celebra- tions — featuring local nuts. Chestnut festivals are plenti- ful in Tuscany, typically in October. Piancastagnaio hosts the oldest of all, the Crastatone. If in Piedmont, head to Alba for a double- header at the Alba Food Festival where white truf- fles rule but local hazelnuts shine, as well. If you're a s u m m e r v i s i t o r , m a n y pinenut sagras occur in June and July, while spring cele- brates the blossoming of the almond trees in Agrigento with a breathtaking festival. Live well, eat well… and celebrate the two. Go nuts in Italy! Why would we make a big d e a l a b o u t n u t s i n I t a l y , t h o u g h , w h e n t h e y a r e a beloved part of practically every culture's cuisine? For- tunately, the answer isn't too complex. Italian culture is synonymous with superior quality food and drink. Pre- s e r v i n g t h i s p h i l o s o p h y , along with traditional ways, eclipses high production and automatization. Think "Slow F o o d M o v e m e n t " – t h e brainchild of Carlo Petrini, w h o s e a i m i s t o p r e s e r v e "regional traditions, good, clean, fair food and a slower pace of life." Wild harvested nuts, especially hazelnuts and chestnuts, maintain the specific terroir and microcli- mate-based qualities that set them apart from mass pro- duction orchards. Same goes for more cultivated species such as almonds and pista- c h i o s , w h i l e n o t h i n g c a n compare with hand-harvest- e d p i n e n u t s f r o m I t a l y ' s western Ligurian coast. In l i n e w i t h t h i s v a l u e a n d pride, many of Italy's nut varieties have been awarded Denominazione d'Orig- I might lose my cre - d e n t i a l s w i t h o u t some clarification: I t a l i a n s l o v e n u t s year-round, but when fall arrives, nuts take center stage. While not as romanti- cized as the autumnal grape and olive harvests, the vari- ety and quality of nuts culti- v a t e d i n I t a l y a r e j u s t a s impressive. It's also safe to say they are as important to the Italian palette and cul- t u r e a s t h e i r v i n e a n d orchard counterparts. From tip to toe, Italy prop- agates heavy hitters such as pistachio, hazelnuts, walnuts, chestnuts, almonds, and pine nuts. While these seem as much as part of the historic landscape as a vineyard, culi- nary forensics would reveal that all, save pine nuts, origi- nated in Central Asia and found their way east via trade routes. Some, such as chest- nuts and hazelnuts, took root earlier than others, but for all cultural purposes what we now consider Italian-origin nuts are some of the best and most prized in the world. Hundreds of years before a tomato ended up in la cuci- na, nuts had become a daily part of cuisine and tradition. Homer and Virgil both men- tioned chestnuts as early as 3 7 B C . H a z e l n u t s w e r e a Middle Ages peasant staple with almonds reserved for aristocracy, and the remains of walnuts have been uncov- ered in Pompeii and Hercu- laneum. Move over, toma- toes…you really are the new kid on the Italian culinary block. Even though nuts are a long-standing and integral part of food tradition in Italy, they have become everyday ingredients only in the last couple of centuries. Pesto richened by pine nuts or wal- n u t s , c o o k i e s a n d c a k e s loaded with almonds, choco- late covered nuts and almond studded torrone nougat, fla- vorful walnut or hazelnut pasta sauce, a world of nut- based liquors – what we con- sider traditional Italian cui- sine would not be what it is without nuts. Nor might the world continue to spin with- out Nutella, the chocolatey confection featuring Italian hazelnuts. Roasted chestnuts sold in the streets of Rome (Photo: Starryvoyage/Dreamstime) It's Fall…when Italians go nuts about nuts! PAULA REYNOLDS LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE

• Cover