L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 8 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 2024 L'Italo-Americano LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE T he Week of the Italian Cuisine i n t h e W o r l d , which concluded recently, invited us to reflect on what root cui- sine truly means in the mod- ern era. Held from November 16 to 22, the ninth edition f o c u s e d o n t h e theme"Mediterranean Diet and Root Cuisine: Health and Tradition," a theme that not only celebrated the culinary traditions defining Italian identity but also emphasized the connection between her- itage, well-being, and sus- tainability. Presented at the Farnesina by the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Antonio Tajani, the event marked a significant e v o l u t i o n i n i t s f o r m a t . Tajani proposed transform- ing the Week into a year-long series of activities to allow Italian chefs to show their talents across diverse geogra- phies and climates, in an ini- tiative able to reflect a broad- er recognition of the global relevance of Italian cuisine and its power to connect peo- ple with their cultural roots. At the heart of this year's edition, we said, was the idea of root cuisine as a bridge between past and present: Tajani described it as "a cui- sine based on our history and identity," and this sentiment was echoed throughout the event in every corner of the world, including LA, where it was a success. It is perhaps important now, after the event conclud- ed, to reflect further on the deeper meaning of root cui- sine, a meaning that goes beyond recipes and ingredi- ents to become an expression of identity shaped by history, geography, and the traditions of those who came before us. Root cuisine is the embodi- ment of the creativity and fla- vors of our ancestors, but it c o n t i n u e s t o e v o l v e w i t h modern influences. In this context, it is interesting to introduce I Racconti delle R a d i c i ( S t o r i e s o f t h e Roots), a collaborative pro- j e c t b e t w e e n L a C u c i n a Italiana and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Interna- tional Cooperation. Created by editor-in-chief Maddale- n a F o s s a t i , t h e p r o j e c t , which debuted at the begin- ning of the year, has been looking into the memories of Italians living abroad, illus- trating how deeply their culi- nary heritage is intertwined w i t h t h e i r s e n s e o f s e l f . Through a web series, a pho- tographic exhibition, a recipe book, and engaging webina- rs, I Racconti delle Radici has been providing a power- ful platform for reconnecting with the shared history of I t a l i a n c o o k i n g , a n d f o r understanding in full the role of food as a vessel of memo- ry, able to transport us to moments of joy, connection, and belonging. The importance of root cuisine is further highlighted in the discussions surround- ing Italy's ongoing campaign to have its culinary heritage r e c o g n i z e d a s U N E S C O Intangible Cultural Her- itage in December 2025: the candidacy reinforces the cultural and historical signif- icance of Italian cooking, positioning it as a symbol of national pride and a tribute to the country's ability to p r e s e r v e t r a d i t i o n a n d embrace innovation at once. During the Week of the Italian Cuisine in the World, root cuisine was associated with the Mediterranean d i e t , a s y m b o l i t s e l f o f health and sustainability, but it was also discussed in its b r o a d e r r o l e w i t h i n t h e tourist industry. The Min- i s t r y o f F o r e i g n A f f a i r s ' Tourism of Roots initia- tive aims to help Italians born abroad rediscover their heritage through immersive experiences in small towns and villages. Root cuisine plays a pivotal role in this, as the distinct culinary tradi- tions of each region offer a gateway to understanding l o c a l c u l t u r e , w i t h a n approach that does not only strengthen individual con- nections to heritage but also supports rural communities by promoting their unique contributions to Italy's gas- tronomic landscape. Root cuisine, however, is not static. It evolves through generations, shaped by the i n f l u e n c e s o f m i g r a t i o n , i n n o v a t i o n , a n d t h e e x c h a n g e o f i d e a s . W h i l e s o m e m a y v i e w t h e s e c h a n g e s a s a t h r e a t t o authenticity, they are often what keep traditions alive: the challenge lies in main- taining the essence of root cuisine while allowing it to adapt and flourish in new contexts. Yet, as the global appetite for Italian food grows, so d o e s t h e r i s k o f I t a l i a n - sounding products—items marketed as Italian but lack- ing authenticity. During his intervention at the beginning o f t h e W e e k , M i n i s t e r o f Agriculture Francesco Lol- lobrigida emphasized the importance of promoting genuine Italian products, recalling the wisdom of past generations who understood the value of quality, locally sourced ingredients. By edu- cating consumers and pro- moting a deeper apprecia- tion for authentic Italian cuisine, initiatives like the Week of the Italian Cuisine play a key role in preserving the integrity of Italy's culi- nary heritage. On a personal level, root cuisine resonates differently for everyone: for some, it is the aroma of a grandmoth- er's kitchen, the ritual of Sunday lunches, or the taste of a dish prepared exactly as it was decades ago. For oth- ers, it is a way to reconnect with a distant homeland or to pass down a piece of their heritage to the next genera- tion. Whichever way we see it, the essence of root cuisine lies in how food becomes more than that, it becomes stories, traditions and emo- tions. My own root cuisine has the simplicity and inno- c e n c e o f c h i l d h o o d : t h e omelette topped with fresh jam my grandmother Gio- vanna used to prepare for my merenda, the crunchiness of my grandma Milly's thinly s l i c e d , r o s e m a r y - s c e n t e d pan-fried potatoes, the warm aroma of my mother's torta di mele baking in the oven on Saturday afternoons. It is also tajarin with butter and lashings of white truffles, p o l e n t a w i t h m u s h r o o m s and a spoonful of mascar- pone on the side and torta p a s q u a l i n a m a d e w i t h spinach, rice and sausage. There are memories, smiles and stories attached to each of these dishes and, I won't deny it, also a good deal of melancholy because the peo- p l e w h o u s e d t o p r e p a r e them for me are long gone. Yet, there is a sense of joy, too. Because every time the apple pie is in the oven and the eggs are whisked for the omelette, a sense of peace, p r o t e c t i o n a n d l o v e s t i r s within, and a smile never fails to appear on my lips. This is, perhaps the true — and most beautiful — mean- ing of root cuisine. LUCA SIGNORINI Root cuisine, between tradition, identity, and memory Making fresh tagliatelle from scratch, an all-Italian tradition (Photo: SunKids/Shuttershock)

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