L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 23, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano B read has a cen- tral role in Ital- ian cuisine, with e a c h r e g i o n p r o u d l y p r o - moting its own distinct vari- eties, textures, and flavors. The delicious and humble focaccia is the same: from the soft and fluffy focaccia barese, topped with cherry tomatoes and olives, to the r i c h l y l a y e r e d s f i n c i o n e siciliano, often considered a cross between focaccia and pizza, Italy offers an incredi- ble diversity of bread-based specialties. Among them, of course, Liguria's focaccia g e n o v e s e s t a n d s q u e e n , and is known for its simplici- ty and characteristic combi- nation of olive oil and coarse salt. The Tuscan schiaccia- ta is equally renowned, but slightly denser, and is often served plain or filled with savory ingredients like pro- sciutto. While these famous vari- eties are very much known by food lovers worldwide, less-known varieties remain hidden in specific regions: o n e s u c h e x a m p l e i s C a l - abria's grupariata, a bold- l y f l a v o r e d f o c a c c i a t h a t stands apart from both its northern counterparts and sun-filled cousins of Puglia and Sicily. Hailing from the town of Luzzi, near the Sila moun- t a i n s i n t h e p r o v i n c e o f C o s e n z a , t h e g r u p a r i a t a combines the rich culinary traditions of Calabria with a u n i q u e p r e p a r a t i o n t h a t makes it a standout among Italian breads. With its strik- ing red dough, achieved by a d d i n g p e e l e d t o m a t o e s directly into the mixture, and toppings like fresh cherry tomatoes, anchovies, or the distinctly Calabrian rosa- m a r i n a ( a s p i c y s a r d i n e paste), the grupariata well represents the region's bold flavors and resourceful cook- i n g t r a d i t i o n s . T h e n a m e itself derives from the local dialect, meaning "pierced" or "pricked," in reference to the dimples made in the dough to hold fresh tomatoes and anchovies. A h i s t o r y r o o t e d i n legend The history of grupariata is deeply connected with a popular local legend. It is s a i d t h a t a y o u n g w o m a n named Palummella, adopt- ed by a farming couple in L u z z i , w a s k n o w n f o r h e r extraordinary beauty. Her charm captured the attention of the son of a local noble- man, sparking a forbidden romance. To avoid scandal, her adoptive parents kept her hidden, but the young nobleman, desperate to see h e r , s o u g h t t h e h e l p o f a witch to transform himself into a dove. One day, while Palummella's mother was harvesting tomatoes, she was s t a r t l e d b y t h e d o v e a n d dropped her harvest; Palum- mella decided to use the fall- e n t o m a t o e s i n h e r b r e a d dough, thus creating the first grupariata. Tragically, the story ends in heartbreak: P a l u m m e l l a ' s a d o p t i v e father, suspecting foul play, killed the dove, and the grief- stricken Palummella took her own life. Ever since, the legend concludes, the grupa- riata has been made in her memory, carrying a bitter- sweet connection to this tale of love and loss. A distinctive focaccia The grupariata sets itself a p a r t f r o m o t h e r I t a l i a n focaccias through both fla- vors and preparation. The already-mentioned addition of peeled tomatoes to the dough gives it a rich red hue and a tangy, savory base, enhanced by spices like cin- namon, nutmeg, and chili powder. Once the dough has risen, it is topped with fresh t o m a t o e s , a n c h o v i e s , o r rosamarina—a Calabrian s p e c i a l t y t h a t d e s e r v e s a c l o s e r l o o k . O f t e n c a l l e d "Calabrian caviar," rosama- rina is a spicy condiment m a d e f r o m f i n e l y g r o u n d baby sardines or anchovies, blended with chili peppers and salt. This spread well embodies the strong flavors of Calabria, with its fiery kick and deep umami taste, which makes it a staple of regional cuisine. Its bold profile adds a unique dimension to the g r u p a r i a t a , a n d c o m p l e - ments well other key ingredi- ents like fresh tomatoes and aromatic oregano. The differences between g r u p a r i a t a a n d o t h e r famous focaccias are evident. L e t u s t a k e , f o r i n s t a n c e , focaccia genovese: simple a n d u n d e r s t a t e d , w i t h a white dough seasoned gener- ously with olive oil, coarse salt, and sometimes rose- mary or onions, it stands for its rich but relatively mild flavor. Another Ligurian spe- cialty, focaccia di Recco, fea- tures a completely different approach, with the addition of cheese as a key ingredient, encased between two thin layers of dough. Puglia's own focaccia barese is yet anoth- er variation, characterized by a fluffier texture, achieved by adding mashed potatoes to the dough, and by a topping o f f r e s h c h e r r y t o m a t o e s , olives, and oregano. Grupa- riata, though, is different from them all: it is a bold a n d s p i c y c o u n t e r p a r t t o these more delicate regional interpretations, in a nod to Calabria's strong and fiery culinary tradition. Let's make traditional grupariata together. T h e f o l l o w i n g r e c i p e i s adapted from an article by Laura Pacelli, originally published on La Cucina Ita- liana's website. Credit for the recipe and inspiration goes to the publication and the author, who preserved in her recipe the authenticity of this Calabrian delicacy. Ingredients: • 250 g (1¾ cups) all-pur- pose flour • 250 g (1¾ cups) Manito- ba flour (or bread flour) • 5 g (1½ tsp) fresh yeast • 2 5 0 g ( 1 c u p ) p e e l e d tomatoes • Salt, to taste • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil • 150-200 ml (⅔-¾ cup) water • 2 garlic cloves • Ground cinnamon, to taste • Ground nutmeg, to taste • Chili powder, to taste • Fresh cherry tomatoes, as needed • 10 anchovies or 2 table- spoons rosamarina (spicy sardine paste) • Oregano, to taste Method: 1. In a bowl, dissolve the fresh yeast in room-tempera- ture water. Add olive oil and the peeled tomatoes, break- ing them into small pieces. Stir until well combined. 2. In a separate bowl, mix the all-purpose and Manito- ba flours with a pinch of salt, chili powder, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Gradually incorpo- rate the liquid mixture into the dry ingredients, knead- i n g u n t i l t h e d o u g h i s s m o o t h , s o f t , a n d r e d i n color. 3. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean cloth, and let it rise in a warm place for about two hours or until it doubles in size. 4. Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F) in fan mode. Grease a baking pan with olive oil and spread the risen dough evenly across the sur- face. 5. Create dimples in the dough with your fingers and fill them with halved cherry t o m a t o e s a n d p i e c e s o f anchovy or dollops of rosma- rina. Sprinkle oregano on top if desired. 6. Bake the focaccia in the preheated oven for 30-40 minutes, or until golden and crispy on the edges. 7. Allow the grupariata to cool slightly before serving. Enjoy warm or at room tem- perature for the best flavor. CHIARA D'ALESSIO A slice of grupariata, with its traditional fiery color (Photo: Claudio Rampinini/Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Grupariata, Calabria's red focaccia

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