L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 6, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano T repalle is a small alpine hamlet in the municipality of Livigno, in the province of Son- drio, known for a very special characteristic: it's the high- e s t i n h a b i t e d p l a c e i n Europe. Well, to be truthful, it is the second, but there is a bit of controversy about that, and I can explain to you why: the population of Trepalle, which is around 720 people, is spread across various set- tlements rather than a single centralized village. Unlike other mountain towns, in other words, Trepalle doesn't have a true center — its hous- es are scattered across sever- al hamlets, including San- t'Anna (2,079 meters / 6,820 f e e t ) , C a m p a c c i o ( 2 , 0 6 2 meters / 6,765 feet), Plan (1,975 meters / 6,480 feet), a n d P a s s o d ' E i r a ( 2 , 1 7 2 meters / 7,126 feet). This led to some debate over its title as the second highest village in Europe, as it has houses situated higher than J u f , Switzerland (2,126 meters / 6,975 feet) — the tiny place holding the record — but lacks a single, defined nucle- us. In any case, its church, which stands at 2,069 meters (6,788 feet) and is dedicated to Saint Anne, is officially the highest parish in Europe, so there is an altitude record to celebrate anyway. First or second, though, it doesn't really matter because Trepalle is just so charming: if you are like me and dream of a life high up in the moun- t a i n s w i t h y o u r p e t s a n d loads of books, this may be just paradise. If you know Italian, you a l s o k n o w t h e n a m e " T r e p a l l e " s o u n d s q u i t e funny to our ears, as it literal- ly means "three balls." How- ever, its etymology doesn't speak about round objects of a n y k i n d a n d i s , i n f a c t , somehow debated. A com- mon theory suggests that it d e r i v e s f r o m T r e p a l u m , m e a n i n g " t h r e e p o l e s " o r "palisade," possibly referenc- ing early wooden structures built by shepherds who set- tled in the area. Another the- ory links it to Trevalle, or "Three Valleys," because of i t s g e o g r a p h i c a l p o s i t i o n b e t w e e n V a l T r e l a , V a l d i F o s c a g n o , a n d V a l l a c c i a . However, a more practical explanation could be that the name comes from the three poles that were placed in front of mountain huts to serve as a sign of recognition for the alpine pastures. As you may guess, life in T r e p a l l e h a s a l w a y s b e e n shaped by the challenges and rewards of its altitude; his- torically isolated, especially d u r i n g t h e l o n g w i n t e r months, the village devel- oped a resilience and charac- ter all of its own. The winters are famously cold: in Feb- r u a r y 1 9 5 6 , T r e p a l l e recorded a temperature of -41°C (-41.8°F) one of the l o w e s t e v e r m e a s u r e d i n I t a l y , a r e c o r d o n l y s u r - p a s s e d i n 2 0 1 3 b y t h e - 49.6°C (-57.3°F) registered in the Busa Nord di Fradus- ta, on the Pale di San Marti- no. Snow blankets the village for much of the year, creat- i n g a n e n v i r o n m e n t t h a t , while harsh, has also turned Trepalle into a paradise for winter sports enthusiasts. The village is connected to Livigno's extensive ski network, which is one of the most famous in Italy. During the summer, with its breathtaking alpine trails, Trepalle transforms into a haven for hikers and moun- tain bikers. Despite being small and high up in the mountains, Trepalle may not be a bad place if you enjoy shopping, either, as it shares a special s t a t u s w i t h L i v i g n o a s a z o n a e x t r a d o g a n a l e , m e a n i n g i t i s a d u t y - f r e e zone. This privilege dates back to Napoleonic times and was later reinforced by Austrian and Italian authori- ties to compensate for the region's geographic isolation a n d h a r s h c l i m a t e . A s a result, Trepalle offers tax- free shopping, with goods such as alcohol, tobacco, and fuel available at significantly lower prices than in the rest of Italy. There are two gas s t a t i o n s i n t h e v i l l a g e , a handful of duty-free shops, a n d s m a l l y e t w e l c o m i n g hotels, catering to visitors looking for both economic b e n e f i t s a n d a p e a c e f u l alpine escape. Beyond its natural beauty a n d d u t y - f r e e s t a t u s , Trepalle has a fascinating connection to Italian lit- erature. In the summer of 1948, writer Giovannino Guareschi visited the vil- lage and met Don Alessan- d r o P a r e n t i , t h e l o c a l parish priest. Guareschi was deeply struck by Don Paren- ti's no-nonsense, practical approach to solving prob- lems, his deep religious faith, and his ability to balance the spiritual and material needs o f h i s p a r i s h i o n e r s . T h i s e n c o u n t e r w o u l d l a t e r i n s p i r e G u a r e s c h i ' s m o s t f a m o u s c r e a t i o n : D o n Camillo, the strong-willed, sharp-witted, and sometimes hot-tempered priest featured i n h i s M o n d o P i c c o l o series. Don Camillo, one of Italy's most beloved literary characters, constantly clash- es with Peppone, the com- munist mayor of a fictional village where the stories take place. Their ongoing battle of wits and ideologies, set in post-war Italy, became a cul- t u r a l p h e n o m e n o n , a s i t lightheartedly showed the tensions between Catholi- cism and communism while maintaining an underlying theme of mutual respect and friendship. The stories were later adapted into a wildly popular film series, starring the French actor Fernandel as Don Camillo and Gino C e r v i a s P e p p o n e . E v e n today, Don Camillo remains an iconic figure in Italian lit- erature and cinema, a nostal- gic portrait of small-town life, faith, and the colorful c o n t r a d i c t i o n s o f h u m a n nature. Trepalle itself remains a place where tradition and modernity intersect. Though once largely isolated, the vil- l a g e h a s e m b r a c e d i t s tourism potential, welcom- ing visitors year-round. In addition to skiing and hik- i n g , T r e p a l l e o f f e r s a n authentic taste of alpine life. The locals, known for their w a r m t h a n d h o s p i t a l i t y , proudly maintain their tradi- tions, from their distinctive cuisine to their deep-rooted customs. The village has no true center, with homes and businesses scattered across the mountainside, yet this only adds to its charm.For t h o s e l o o k i n g t o e x p l o r e beyond Trepalle, Livigno, j u s t s i x k i l o m e t e r s ( 3 . 7 3 m i l e s ) a w a y , p r o v i d e s a bustling counterpart with a wider array of shops, restau- r a n t s , a n d c u l t u r a l s i t e s . Bormio, known for its his- toric thermal baths, lies 28 kilometers (17.40 miles) to the south, while the luxury ski resort of St. Moritz in Switzerland is just 50 kilo- m e t e r s ( 3 1 m i l e s ) a w a y . D e s p i t e i t s s m a l l s i z e , Trepalle is truly a gateway to some of the most breathtak- ing scenery in the Alps, offer- ing both solitude and adven- ture in equal measure. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI A view of Trepalle, which shows its peculiar layout (Photo: Gherzak/Shutterstock) Living life above the clouds in Trepalle ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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