L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 6, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano For US and Canadian Residents – Full Representation in the Italian Legal and Financial Systems, both at the Federal Level and Across All 20 Regions of Italy Our Rome-based Italian Family Law Practice Includes: - Estate Probate - Inheritance - Real Estate - Family Succession - Trusts - Bank Accounts - Power of Attorney - Taxes - Dual Citizenship 100% Fluency in English. US-based Senior Business Manager. No cost/ no obligation telephone consultations. Fixed cost "total fee" engagement pricing. Visit our website www.ItalyLawyerforAmericans.com for a full profile of our firm and all the services we offer, email our US-based Business Manager at support@italylawyer-us-can.com or call 267.500.1807 from 900AM-500PM ET. W e l c o m e t o U m b r i a , the "green c e n t e r " o f I t a l y — home to St. Francis' stunning Assisi, the university (and chocolate capital) town of Perugia, swaths of alluring forests where wild truffles hide, and the world-famous w i n e s o f M o n t e f a l c o . B u t there is yet another treasure within the borders of Umbria, a vibrant town brimming with history, art, and a whole lot more…the hilltop town of Spoleto. It's tempting, but I will not employ the over-used "hidden gem" to introduce Spoleto, even if the descriptor fits. Perhaps not so much hidden but more overlooked as tour buses carry the masses to Assisi, with perhaps a few hours allotted to Orvieto or Perugia; there's simply no time for Spoleto. That's not necessarily a bad thing for this city steeped in history, a place that has mightily held its own, even repulsing Han- nibal's attempt eons ago to breach the walls. Fortunate f o r a n i n c r e a s i n g l y o v e r - touristed Italy, Spoleto seems to refrain from dependence on the tourist dollar. Local life and commerce are alive and well, but tourism is wel- comed; hence, many refer to Spoleto as Italy's purest or most traditional town. As a first-time visitor last fall, I was humbled by and greatly impressed with the beauty, culture, and offerings I'd skipped over in my years of travel in Italy, including countless times in Umbria. What I discovered is a place layered in rich discoveries. Fascinating historic relics, a community dedicated to cele- brating the fine arts, multiple trattorias and shops offering the region's delights, well maintained medieval beauty, and a palpable sense of a town comfortable in its own skin who welcomes all curi- ous enough to visit. Come along with me for a closer look. Arriving by car, the first sighting of Spoleto provides quite the bella figura. Rising into view from miles away, t h e a u s t e r e , i m p r e s s i v e l y stoic silhouette of the Rocca A l b o r n o z i a n a f o r t r e s s s draws immediate attention. Looming over the town, the Rocca has occupied this ele- vated site on the Sant'Elia hill since the 14 th century. Built over the remains of a Roman acropolis, the fort has been home to Lucrezia Bor- gia and other notables, over- s a w d e f e n s e f o r t h e V i a Flaminia, and served as a prison from 1816 until 1982. Sadly, many frescoes and ornamentation were lost dur- ing its years as an impressive home to criminals. Today it houses a national museum and hosts events, concerts, and symposiums. A glorious 900-meter pedestrian prom- enade encircles the Rocca; a walk here is introspective and intertwines striking natural and manmade beauty. Be sure and climb up (or take the lift) to the top; the views are powerful. If you have any awe left to spare, follow the promenade t o w a r d s t h e c a n ' t - m i s s Ponte delle Torri, the still- in-use 14 th century pedestri- an bridge (formerly Roman aqueduct) that rises 300 feet a b o v e a p e r i l o u s g o r g e . R e c e n t l y r e o p e n e d a f t e r repairs from a 2017 earth- quake, the bridge affords a breathtaking view over the gorge as it leads travelers to where two ancient mills once operated. St. Francis loved the "holy woods" and views here – Never I saw anything more joyous than my Spoleto valley. ~ St. Francis of Assisi. The more adventurous can continue the hike on to the tiny hamlet of Monteluco, population 27. From the Rocca's fortified walls, the westerly view of Spoleto spills out like a color- ful jigsaw puzzle. The eye is quickly drawn to a pointed spire, its structure almost a misfit amongst the organic beauty of perfectly imperfect medieval buildings. This is the 12 th century bell tower of the magnificent Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the Romanesque style church that dominates Piazza del Duomo. A ceremoniously broad stone walkway leads d o w n w a r d t o t h e c h u r c h , opening dramatically into the piazza. Several palazzi serve as neighbors, but it's clear who dominates this not-so- accidental stage. An embell- ished façade highlights the gilded Byzantine-style mosa- ic by Solsterno (1207); it reminded me of glittering 1950s signage bidding folks to come in. And do go in. Transformed during the early 17 th century, the interior is impressively baroque and features priceless works of art. Filippo Lippi (1406 – 1469), famed friar, artist, and a bit of a rascal, created the masterpiece centered in the apse, its colors so brilliant and rich they appear lit from within. It's mesmerizing. An area inhabited as far back as the eighty century BC, Spoleto blossomed under Roman rule. Founded in 241 BC as Spoletium, the town soon became an important Latin colony tasked with pro- tecting the passageway of the Via Flaminia. Subsequently, Roman trademarks such as a forum, theatre, aqueducts, walls, temples, and memo- rable arches were construct- ed. Sip an aperitivo in Piazza del Mercato; notice its oval shape? You're just a few feet a b o v e w h a t w a s o n c e t h e forum – it's poetic that this space still supports commu- n a l c o m i n g t o g e t h e r a n d markets. Follow well marked signage and gaze upon the impressively intact theatre. Repurposed multiple times over the centuries, the the- ater is now used for summer shows. Spoleto's well com- missioned State Archaeo- logical Museum is con- joined to the theatre making it easy to get a day's fill of ancient history. Take time to tour the subterranean Casa R o m a n a , a v e r y i n t a c t Roman noble home. Many Italian towns flaunt Roman remnants, but Spoleto seems t o r e v e a l a R o m a n g h o s t around almost every corner… bello. There may not be an Uffizi in Spoleto, but reverence for the performing arts is alive and well here. Initiated in 1958 as a means of celebrat- ing the arts, the Festival dei D u e M o n d i ( F e s t i v a l o f Two Worlds) has put Spoleto on the map as a global artis- tic hub. Opera, dance, con- certs, plays, visual and per- formance arts saturate the days and nights for several w e e k s e a c h m i d s u m m e r . Locals will tell you to book a room far in advance if the festival is on your agenda. C r a d l e d i n t h e l u s h o f Umbria's green, Spoleto is one of Italy's most vibrant towns…that you probably have never heard of. A trea- sure layered with two thou- sand-plus years of life, histo- r y , h e r i t a g e , a n d t a l e s , S p o l e t o o f f e r s a c u l t u r a l experience comparable to any of Italy's well-known cities, yet with a decisively relaxed, more comfortable pace and atmosphere. I won- der about her future; as word spreads, so rises the number of tourists. With long-rooted strength and resiliency, even enough to repel Hannibal, bets would fall in favor that Spoleto will do just fine in the coming years. It's a magical place where the present lives respectfully with the past, where history and beauty — and a lot of great food and w i n e — c o a l e s c e i n t o a n unforgettable Italian experi- ence. PAULA REYNOLDS Spoleto, Umbria — Italy's "purest city" Spoleto: the Ponte delle Torri and the Rocca Albornoziana (Photo: Roman Kulifaj/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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