L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 20, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano A c q u a c o t t a i s one of the most traditional dish- e s o f t h e M a r e m m a region, an area that stretch- e s a c r o s s s o u t h e r n Tuscany and northern Lazio. A classic example of peasant cooking, it was born out of necessity, relying on the sim- plest of ingredients — water, stale bread, and a handful of vegetables — to create some- thing nourishing, warm, and satisfying. Over time, acqua- c o t t a e v o l v e d , t o i n c l u d e m o r e i n g r e d i e n t s a s t h e y became available, yet it has never lost its rustic, comfort- ing heart. Though today it is a staple i n t r a t t o r i a s a n d h o m e kitchens, acquacotta was once a meal for shepherds, c h a r c o a l b u r n e r s , a n d farmworkers who spent long hours outdoors. They carried bread, onions, olive oil, and salt, gathering what t h e y c o u l d f r o m t h e s u r - rounding countryside — wild herbs, greens, and some- times a piece of cured meat or dried fish. Cooking was done in a single pot over an open fire, and the dish was s h a r e d a m o n g w o r k e r s , offering both sustenance and a moment of rest. T h e e v o l u t i o n o f acquacotta In the 19th and early 20th centuries, acquacotta was commonly prepared by the b u t t e r i , t h e M a r e m m a 's cattle herders. These skilled horsemen, similar to cow- boys, lived on the move, fol- lowing their herds across vast plains, and often relied on simple one-pot meals. Acquacotta, with its ability t o f e e d m a n y u s i n g f e w ingredients, was an ideal solution. The soup was car- r i e d i n a l e a t h e r s a t c h e l called a catana, along with a flask of red wine. A s l i v i n g c o n d i t i o n s improved in the mid-20th century, acquacotta slowly became richer. Tomatoes, which were not always avail- a b l e i n e a r l i e r v e r s i o n s , became a common addition. Potatoes, celery, and carrots were incorporated to make it more filling. In some homes, eggs were poached directly in the soup, turning a mod- est broth into a substantial meal. Despite these addi- tions, the basic philosophy o f a c q u a c o t t a r e m a i n e d unchanged: it is a dish of the land, prepared with what is available, seasonal, and sim- ple. Variations exist depend- ing on the village, family tra- ditions, and personal tastes, but at its core, it remains a d i s h t h a t r e p r e s e n t s t h e resourcefulness and ingenu- ity of Maremma's rural com- munities. A traditional recipe! The following recipe is adapted from Sara Millet- t i ' s a r t i c l e A c q u a c o t t a M a r e m m a n a : p o v e r a e buona come una volta, pub- lished on La Cucina Ita- liana. It is a classic vegetar- ian version, which maintains the dish's traditional ele- ments while incorporating fresh vegetables for a richer taste. Ingredients (serves 4) 2 cups (280g) chopped tomatoes 8 c u p s ( 2 4 0 g ) f r e s h spinach, cleaned and sliced 1 cup (160g) shelled fava beans 1 l a r g e ( 1 5 0 g ) y e l l o w onion, thinly sliced 2 medium (150g) carrots, sliced 1 cup (120g) fresh peas 2 s t a l k s ( 1 0 0 g ) c e l e r y , chopped 4 large eggs 4 slices of Tuscan bread (stale, unsalted if possible) 2 fresh sage leaves 1 small red chili pepper (optional) 1 garlic clove Extra virgin olive oil Salt to taste Instructions P r e p a r e t h e v e g e t a - bles: wash the spinach and slice it into thin strips. Peel and slice the onion. Clean and chop the celery. Peel the carrots and slice them into rounds. Rinse the tomatoes, remove the seeds, and chop them into small pieces. S a u t é t h e b a s e : i n a large heavy-bottomed pot, h e a t e n o u g h e x t r a v i r g i n olive oil to cover the bottom. Add the onion, celery, car- rots, chili pepper (if using), and sage leaves. Cook on low heat until the onion becomes soft and translucent. Simmer the soup: add the chopped tomatoes, peas, and fava beans, then pour in 6 cups of water. Add salt to taste, cover, and simmer on very low heat for about 2 h o u r s . I f t o o m u c h w a t e r evaporates, add a little more, k e e p i n g i n m i n d t h a t t h e final consistency should be thick but soupy. Add the spinach and eggs: when the acquacotta is nearly done, stir in the sliced spinach. About 5 min- utes before serving, gently crack the eggs directly into the simmering soup, being c a r e f u l n o t t o b r e a k t h e yolks. Let them cook until the whites are fully set. P r e p a r e t h e b r e a d : toast the Tuscan bread slices in a dry pan until crispy. Rub them with a peeled garlic clove for extra flavor. Assemble and serve: place one slice of toasted bread in each bowl, ladle the hot acquacotta over it, mak- ing sure to include an egg in each portion. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil and serve immediately. Regional variations A c q u a c o t t a h a s m a n y l o c a l v a r i a t i o n s a c r o s s Maremma. In some parts of Tuscany, spinach is replaced with black cabbage, which is added in the last 10 minutes of cooking. Another common version includes cannellini or borlotti beans, which are pre-cooked and stirred in at the end. Some prefer to use vegetable broth instead of water to intensify the flavor. In Grosseto, red and green bell peppers are added at the start, lending a slightly sweet taste to the soup. Acquacotta in modern times Once a dish of necessity, acquacotta has now found its place in restaurants, food festivals, and home kitchens. Towns like Cana and Santa Fiora hold annual festivals dedicated to this dish, draw- ing locals and visitors eager to taste its many variations. Though once associated with hardship, acquacotta is now seen as an example of Tus- can culinary tradition at its best. Many chefs appreciate its simplicity, versatility, and ability to highlight seasonal ingredients. It is often fea- tured in trattorias, particu- larly in the Maremma region, where it remains a comfort- ing staple. Acquacotta fits perfectly into modern cooking trends because it embraces the idea of sustainability and mini- mizing food waste. The use of stale bread and seasonal vegetables meets contempo- r a r y a p p r o a c h e s t o z e r o - waste cooking, which makes it a dish that is both tradi- tional and modern. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Maremma's acquacotta (Photo: Alexander Mychko/dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Acquacotta: Maremma's humble yet flavorful soup

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