L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 29, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano I n the sunny heel of I t a l y ' s b o o t l i e s Salento, a stretch of l a n d s u s p e n d e d b e t w e e n s e a a n d s t o n e ; f a m o u s f o r i t s t u r q u o i s e w a t e r , w h i t e b e a c h e s , a n d b e a u t i f u l l y rugged coastline, this part of southern Puglia has earned t h e n i c k n a m e t h e Caribbean of Italy, and it's easy to understand why. But beyond its natural beau- ty, Salento has its own culi- nary identity and, among its local specialties, one drink stands out in summer: caffè salentino, also known as caffè leccese. Made with strong espres- so and sweet almond syrup, p o u r e d o v e r i c e , c a f f è salentino is tradition, a sym- bol of hospitality, and a cool- ing ritual that speaks of land, taste, and life's rhythm. And while you can now find it in various corners of Italy, its roots – just as its heart – remain firmly in Salento. According to legend, iced coffee first arrived in Italy from the Iberian Peninsula as early as the 15th century, making its way through the port of Otranto. While the h a b i t o f c h i l l i n g c o f f e e evolved over time, the dis- tinctive Salentine twist – c o m b i n i n g e s p r e s s o w i t h almond – likely came later, when local ingredients and custom shaped the drink we know today. The addition of almonds gave the recipe a new personality. Almonds have been grown in Puglia for centuries, and almond- based syrups and pastries are central to its culinary tra- ditions; but the union of cof- f e e a n d a l m o n d c r e a t e d s o m e t h i n g u n i q u e a n d refreshing, and eventually became a staple of summer mornings across Lecce and the whole of Salento. A more modern version of the story credits Antonio Q u a r t a , t h e f o u n d e r o f L e c c e ' s Q u a r t a C a f f è roastery, with popularizing the practice in the 1950s. To counter the oppressive sum- mer heat, Quarta began serv- ing freshly brewed espresso with crushed ice cubes and… a touch of sweetness, given by the almond syrup: the ice was chipped by hand, the coffee still hot, and the result quickly became a hit. T h o u g h y e a r s h a v e passed, the method hasn't changed much. While most bars today use crystal-clear cubes instead of crushed ice, the basic process remains the same: a strong shot of coffee, almond flavor, and plenty of cold. A perfect pausa from the sweltering heat of Salento's summers, it's not unusual to f i n d p e o p l e s i p p i n g c a f f è salentino at a bar counter mid-morning or enjoying it s l o w l y u n d e r a s h a d e d a w n i n g i n t h e a f t e r n o o n . O r d e r i n g o n e i s a s m a l l , shared ritual: the espresso is served piping hot, often in a s e p a r a t e c u p , w h i l e t h e almond syrup and ice wait in a t u m b l e r b e s i d e i t . Y o u pour, you stir, and then you taste, the temperature drop- ping just as the flavors round out. It's also worth noting a common misunderstanding: using almond syrup and a l m o n d m i l k i s n o t t h e same. While the latter could technically be used, the real caffè salentino calls for high- quality almond syrup to be true to its origins! H o w t o m a k e c a f f è salentino at home The good news? You don't need a bar in Lecce to enjoy this drink. With a moka pot or espresso machine and a few good ingredients, you can recreate it at home. What you'll need (for one serving): 50 ml of hot espresso (or a long moka coffee) 10 grams (roughly 1 tbsp) of sweet almond syrup 2 to 3 solid ice cubes Instructions: Brew your espresso fresh, u s i n g e i t h e r a n e s p r e s s o machine or a moka pot. Pour the almond syrup into a short glass. Add the ice cubes (high- q u a l i t y i c e i s i m p o r t a n t , avoid hollow cubes). Once the coffee is ready, p o u r i t o v e r t h e i c e a n d syrup. Stir gently and drink slow- ly to enjoy the blend of cool- ness, bitterness, and almond sweetness! Tips: U s e f i l t e r e d o r b o t t l e d water for the ice if possible: it makes a noticeable differ- ence. C h o o s e a c o f f e e b l e n d with medium-dark roast for balance. For an even creamier ver- sion, some bars offer soffiato (with milk froth) or shakera- to (shaken cocktail-style), but the classic is pure and simple. The importance of details Local coffee experts insist o n t h e f r e s h n e s s o f t h e e s p r e s s o : i t m u s t b e h o t w h e n i t m e e t s t h e i c e because the contrast is part of what defines the drink. T h e i c e s h o u l d n ' t m e l t immediately, nor should it be crushed to slush. High- quality ice – ideally made with good water and solid throughout – is a must. As for the almond flavor, less is often more: a teaspoon of almond syrup is enough. Traditionalists will also tell you: make sure the syrup is natural and, if possible, produced in Puglia. Many local families still make their own syrup at home during the almond harvest season, using hand-peeled almonds, sugar, and water. F r o m S a l e n t o t o t h e world Though local in essence, caffè salentino is beginning to travel! Some Italian cafés outside Puglia have added it to their summer menus, and a handful of food bloggers have helped introduce it to international audiences. Its appeal is clear: it's simple, elegant, and very seasonal. But in Puglia, it is even m o r e t h a n t h a t ; i t ' s a moment, a habit, a summer pleasure that gives the right rhythm to the day: tourists are often surprised to see just how widespread it is. In the heart of Salento, nearly every bar has its own ver- sion, and locals often swear by their favorite spot for the "real thing." CHIARA D'ALESSIO Nothing better than an iced caffé Salentino during the summer! (Photo: Massimo Parisi/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Caffè Salentino: almond, ice, and the spirit of Puglia in a glass

• Cover