L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 29, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano E v e r y o n e k n o w s balsamic vine- gar: it's in super- markets around t h e w o r l d a n d often mistaken as just anoth- er salad dressing ingredient. But its real story is far richer – and far more exclusive. As B r i t i s h j o u r n a l i s t G i u l i a Crouch recently highlighted in her piece for The Times, there are two very different worlds within the category: one is mass-market; the other is a slow-aged artisanal prod- uct known to chefs and gour- mands as one of Italy's great- est culinary expressions. It's time to learn how to tell the difference! From ancient roots to Modena's "black gold" The history of balsamic v i n e g a r r e a c h e s b a c k t o Roman times, when cooked grape must (mosto cotto) was used as both a sweetener and a medicinal tonic. During the Middle Ages, balsamic vine- gar began appearing in noble households, often given as a gift or part of a dowry. The Este family, who ruled Mode- na during the Renaissance, were known for their appreci- ation of fine vinegar, and it was during this era that bal- samic vinegar began to be codified as a high-status product. The term balsamic, from balsamum, originally r e f e r r e d t o t h e v i n e g a r ' s believed healing properties. B y t h e 1 8 t h c e n t u r y , records began documenting traditional production meth- ods, some of which remain virtually unchanged today. What's the difference? DOP vs IGP Today, balsamic vinegar exists under multiple desig- nations, each with very differ- ent production standards and culinary uses. A c e t o B a l s a m i c o Tradizionale di Modena DOP (also made in Reggio Emilia under a similar label) is the most prized version, and it is made from just one i n g r e d i e n t : c o o k e d g r a p e must, usually from Trebbiano or Lambrusco grapes grown locally. This must is aged for a minimum of 12 years in a series of wooden barrels, each smaller than the last a n d m a d e f r o m d i f f e r e n t woods – oak, cherry, juniper, ash, and chestnut – to impart complexity. Some barrels have been in use for decades, and each year only a small quantity is extracted, making t h e y i e l d l i m i t e d a n d t h e product precious. To carry the DOP label (Protected Designation of Origin), the vinegar must pass strict tasting and quality controls and be bottled in the iconic 100ml flasks designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro: these are the vinegars that can retail for €100 or more – and for good reason. On the other end is Aceto B a l s a m i c o d i M o d e n a IGP, the more common type f o u n d o n s u p e r m a r k e t shelves. It is a blend of grape must and wine vinegar and may contain caramel for col- oring and stabilizing agents. The IGP version is more var- ied in quality and intended for everyday use on salads, in marinades, or as a base for r e d u c t i o n s . W h i l e n o t a s exclusive as the DOP, good IGP balsamics can still deliv- er exceptional flavor and tex- ture. Then there are condimen- to balsamics and balsamic glazes, which fall outside EU certification rules. Some are h i g h - q u a l i t y s m a l l - b a t c h products; others are inexpen- s i v e , s y r u p y s a u c e s b e s t avoided. T h e m a s t e r s o f t h e craft Italy's most respected pro- ducers of traditional balsamic v i n e g a r a r e o f t e n f a m i l y - owned operations going back generations. Acetaia Giusti, established in 1605, is con- sidered the oldest existing balsamic vinegar producer and remains a benchmark for q u a l i t y . O t h e r r e s p e c t e d n a m e s i n c l u d e A c e t a i a Malpighi, San Giacomo, and Villa Manodori. These producers age their vinegars for 12, 18, or even 25 years, with some offering "extravecchio" lines that rival fine wines in complexity. The long maturation process and artisanal technique limit sup- ply, with only around 14,000 liters of DOP balsamic are produced annually. For per- s p e c t i v e , t h a t ' s a b o u t a s much as a small vineyard might bottle of a single vin- tage wine. W h a t t o p c h e f s a r e doing with it As Crouch noted in her article, chefs like Theo Ran- dall and Francesco Mazzei consider traditional DOP bal- samic a "gastronomic trea- sure." Its thick, glossy texture a n d m u l t i l a y e r e d f l a v o r , w h i c h i n c l u d e s n o t e s o f wood, molasses, cherry, and spice, make it ideal for finish- ing dishes, but not for cook- ing. Randall uses it on Parmi- giano Reggiano or Prosciutto di Parma, where just a few drops can bring out the flavor of these ingredients even more. Mazzei sees it as the truffle or caviar of the vinegar world: expensive, concentrat- ed, and transformative in small quantities. Other popu- lar pairings include DOP bal- samic on vanilla ice cream or mascarpone, fresh strawber- ries or peaches, steak, aged cheeses, risotto or gnocco fritto. IGP balsamic, on the other hand, can be whisked into d r e s s i n g s , u s e d i n p a n sauces, or added to roasted vegetables. A surge in global inter- est In recent years, traditional balsamic has gained more visibility outside of Italy, thanks in part to food educa- t i o n e f f o r t s b y t h e C o n - sorzio Tutela Aceto Bal- samico Tradizionale di Modena. According to con- sortium president Enrico Corsini, increased demand is a result of "growing aware- n e s s o f a u t h e n t i c i t y a n d craftsmanship in food." T a s t e A t l a s r e c e n t l y ranked Modena as one of the top cities in the world for food in 2025, and balsamic vinegar was a central reason. Its inclusion on Michelin- starred menus and availabili- t y t h r o u g h s e l e c t o n l i n e retailers have made it more accessible to home cooks, though the best bottles are still difficult to find. How to spot the real thing If you want to try a real balsamic vinegar, look for these indicators: DOP: look for the yellow- red DOP seal and the signa- ture 100ml bottle. IGP: it should list grape must and wine vinegar as the main ingredients. Avoid any- thing with sugar or thicken- ers if you're looking for quali- ty. Price: expect to pay at least €50 (just short of 60 USD) for an entry-level DOP bottle. Anything much cheap- er is unlikely to meet tradi- tional standards. Retailers: in the US, look t o d e l i s l i k e P a n z e r ' s o r o n l i n e p l a t f o r m s s u c h a s S o u s C h e f a n d E a t a l y . I n Italy, producers often sell directly via their websites or tasting rooms. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Modena balsamic vinegar poured from a small barrel (Photo: Dmfrancesco/Dreamstime) The art of aging: inside the secretive world of Italy's balsamic vinegar tradition LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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