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italoamericano-digital-7-10-2025

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THURSDAY, JULY 10, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano N o t m a n y r e m e m b e r q u i n c e w h e n thinking about I t a l y ' s m a n y fresh fruits, but our beloved m e l a c o t o g n a ( a s i t i s called in the Belpaese) has a lot to say about Mediter - ranean culture and cuisine. A member of the genus Cydonia, it is a distant rela- tive of apples and pears in the rose family; the Ancient Greeks cultivated it long before apples became popu- l a r , h o l d i n g i t s a c r e d t o Aphrodite and using it in wedding ceremonies, when newlyweds were even said to eat quince before entering their bridal chamber. The Romans inherited these tra- d i t i o n s a n d w o u l d g r o w q u i n c e i n t h e i r g a r d e n s , cooking with them in a vari- ety of ways, as attested to in classical texts like those of A p i c i u s a n d P l i n y t h e Elder. In medieval Europe, quince preserved its status as a luxury food: fruit jellies a n d s p i c e d q u i n c e p a s t e s were served at noble ban- quets across France and Italy and celebrated as symbols of love, fertility, and good for- tune. Italy contributed its o w n r e g i o n a l v a r i a n t s – c o t o g n a t a i n S i c i l y , m a r m e l l a t a d i mele cotogne in the north – along with the tradition of using quince for medicinal syrups and aromatic house- hold uses, such as perfuming wardrobes and linen draw- ers. D e s p i t e i t s h i s t o r i c a l prominence, however, quince n e v e r b e c a m e a c o m m o n table fruit in Italy: naturally hard, astringent, and odd- l o o k i n g , i t t a s t e s a l m o s t unripe unless cooked. As C a r l o t t a G a r a n c i n i explains in her article for La Cucina Italiana, quince "are more pleasant when cooked," once their harsh qualities are softened and their natural sweetness released. Indeed, Italians learned that heat transforms quince's flavor: o n c e b i t t e r a n d f i b r o u s , quince becomes fragrant, pinkish, and mildly tart after being cooked. B y t h e 1 6 0 0 s i n S i c i l y , quince preservation tech- n i q u e s h a d m a t u r e d a n d recipes evolved: fruit cooked i n m u s t , h o n e y , o r s u g a r became cotognata, dried in terracotta moulds, and stored for weeks, or even months. Rachel Roddy described h e r S i c i l i a n g r e a t - a u n t ' s a u t u m n r o u t i n e : c o o k i n g k i l o s o f q u i n c e t o a t h i c k purée with lemon and sugar, pouring it into moulds, set- ting it into decorative shapes, and then drying it until firm. Like its Iberian cousin mem- brillo, cotognata is dense, reddish, aromatic, and ideal for pairing with cheese or cold cuts. A versatile fruit for both s w e e t a n d s a l t y r e c i p e s , quince is widely used in jams a n d s a v o r y c o n d i m e n t s across the country: in Emilia- Romagna and Lombardy, it appears in hearty meat dish- es, often roasted or sautéed as a side to pork roasts, or glazed into mostarde served with rich meats like cotechi- no. Elsewhere in Italy, creative quince uses vary by region; b a c k i n S i c i l y , t h e y a r e poached whole with wine, sugar, and cloves, and served with vanilla gelato. They also appear in pear–cotogna tarts or charlottes made with corn- meal and Nashi pears. In P i e d m o n t a n d E m i l i a , a digestif called sburlon is made, typically during the fall, by macerating quince pulp in spirits to create a strong but fragrant after-din- ner drink. Historically, quince also served as a home remedy: its high tannin content meant it was often used in decoc- tions for mild digestive disor- ders, a practice grounded in folk medicine practices com- ing from Antiquity and the Renaissance. Despite these rich tradi- tions, quince cultivation sig- nificantly declined during the 20th century: today, Italy d e d i c a t e s o n l y a b o u t 1 0 0 hectares to quince orchards, primarily in Lombardy and Veneto, although the trees s t i l l g r o w w i l d i n c e r t a i n areas or survive in older fam- ily orchards. Place names such as Codognè (Treviso) and Codogno (Lodi) mirror the tree's former abundance and preserve its legacy in the toponymy of the land. In more recent years, how- ever, quince has been enjoy- ing a growth in popularity, thanks to a broader rediscov- ery of traditional and ancient i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h i n Mediterranean cooking. Food w r i t e r s a n d c h e f s h e l p e d reintroduce the fruit to the public, often emphasizing its dramatic transformation dur- ing cooking, when it develops a complex aroma described by many as floral, honeyed, even spiced. Today, cooks now use it in custard crum- bles, tarts, jams, and savory glazes; bakeries and restau- r a n t s a c r o s s E u r o p e a n d North America have reintro- duced quince into their fall menus, finding new ways to show off its intense flavor and texture while respecting its deep-rooted traditions. In the United States, fresh quince can be found primari- ly in the fall, typically from S e p t e m b e r t h r o u g h November. Your best bet is to c h e c k f a r m e r s ' m a r k e t s , e s p e c i a l l y i n r e g i o n s l i k e California or the Northeast, where the fruit is occasionally grown. Specialty stores cater- ing to Middle Eastern, Latin A m e r i c a n , o r E a s t e r n European communities may also stock quince during the season. While most major supermarkets do not carry fresh quince regularly, you can often find quince paste (membrillo) or preserves in the cheese or international foods section year-round. In case you find it (or you are lucky enough to have a tree in your garden!), here is a traditional recipe to make m a r m e l l a t a d i m e l e cotogne. Let us know how it turns out! Quince Jam (from the blog Mamma che Chef – www.mammachechef.it) I n g r e d i e n t s ( m a k e s approx. 2 cups) 1.1 lbs (about 3 medium) quinces, peeled and cleaned 2/3 cup light brown sugar (or sweetener of your choice) 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2/3 cup water 1/2 teaspoon ground cin- namon Instructions Peel the quinces and cut them into very small pieces. Place them in a bowl with the l e m o n j u i c e , w a t e r , a n d s u g a r . C o v e r w i t h p l a s t i c wrap and let them marinate f o r a b o u t 3 0 m i n u t e s . I f you're in a hurry, you can skip this step. After marinating, transfer everything to a saucepan and add the cinnamon. Cook over low heat for about 30 min- utes, stirring often. If you're making a larger batch, the cooking time will increase accordingly. T o c h e c k i f t h e j a m i s r e a d y , u s e t h e p l a t e t e s t : place a small spoonful of jam on a cold ceramic plate and tilt it. If it slides slowly, it's done. Once the jam reaches the desired consistency, discard any lemon peel and pour the hot jam into sterilized jars. Close them with lids and turn them upside down to create a vacuum seal as they cool. Store the jars in a cool, d a r k p l a c e f o r u p t o 2 months. Once opened, keep refrigerated and consume within 7 days. Note: If you like, you can also flavor the jam with a small piece of fresh ginger or an extra 1/2 teaspoon of cin- namon. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Quinces and cotognata (Photo: Archeophoto/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Quince, the forgotten fruit

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