L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano I f y o u h a v e b e e n t o G e n o a , y o u k n o w them well: those nar- row, winding streets running through the city's own medieval heart, the c a r u g g i . M a g i c a l a n d ancient, they are an integral part of the city's identity, his- tory, and way of life. S t r e t c h i n g a c r o s s 1 1 3 h e c t a r e s , c a r u g g i a r e f a r from being simple mementos of the past; rather, they are alive and bear witness to the city's long and rich history. Their maze-like structure, which dates back to the 11th c e n t u r y , i s a s y m b o l o f Genoa's maritime past, but also of its old, complex social structure. T h e e t y m o l o g y o f t h e term caruggio is connected t o t h e c i t y ' s d e e p l i n k s t o trade and the sea. While the m o s t c o m m o n l y a c c e p t e d explanation traces the word back to the Latin quadrivi- um, meaning the intersection of four roads, another theory proposes an Arabic origin: the word kharuj, meaning "exit," might refer to the fact that caruggi led toward the port of Genoa, thus guiding seafarers toward the sea. Their development can be attributed to the city's rise as a m a r i t i m e p o w e r h o u s e between the 11th and 13th centuries: Genoa's economic fortune was built upon its mastery of sea trade, and as the wealth of local merchant families grew, they construct- ed a fortified city surrounded by defensive walls. The tight, winding streets of the carug- gi were an essential part of this defensive strategy, with their narrowness and intri- c a t e p a t t e r n s d e s i g n e d t o confuse invaders. Moreover, this type of urban planning allowed the city's inhabitants to create defensive barriers and surprise attackers, using the alleyways for strategic advantage. But, in time, caruggi also b e c a m e t h e l i f e b l o o d o f Genoa's social and commer- c i a l l i f e , a s t h e y h o u s e d everything from grand mer- c h a n t p a l a c e s t o m o d e s t homes, providing a striking juxtaposition between the wealth of Genoa's powerful merchant families and the unpretentious lives of the working class. The caruggi were lively centers of trade, with small artisan shops, m a r k e t s t a l l s , a n d w o r k - shops; indeed, the names of many of them, such as Vico d e g l i O r e f i c i ( t h e g o l d - smith's alley) and Vico del Ferro (the iron alley), are a good reminder of the guilds a n d c r a f t s m e n w h o o n c e plied their trades in these very spaces. Caruggi were – and still are – also spaces of cultural and social interaction; the d e n s e p o p u l a t i o n l i v i n g within them contributed to creating a truly vibrant, mul- t i c u l t u r a l e n v i r o n m e n t , where different languages, t r a d i t i o n s , a n d c u s t o m s could coexist in peace. Over time, they became, in fact, home to many immigrant communities, who, attracted by the affordable housing in these central areas, added their cultural accents to the melting pot that was Genoa. Still today, caruggi continue to be a reflection of the city's multicultural nature, with shops, restaurants, and cafés serving a variety of cuisines and offering goods from all corners of the world. Multi- cultural, yet also quintessen- t i a l l y G e n o e s e , a s m a n y point out, with their intri- cate narrowness often poeti- cally compared to that gritti- ness and resilience so typical of Ligurian people. This is, perhaps, why the caruggi have been a muse to m a n y G e n o e s e a r t i s t s , d e s p i t e t h e i r a p p a r e n t – e s p e c i a l l y i n t h e p a s t – harshness and rawness. How can we forget the legendary F a b r i z i o D e A n d r é – a child of Genoa and one of the most representative can- tautori and poets of Italy's 20th-century panorama – a n d h i s V i a d e l C a m p o ? Sketched in vivid musical colors, in De André's notes and words, this caruggio is a place of poverty but also of love and longing, of delicate, almost diaphanous poetry, where the ultimate truths of life lie naked and dramatic: d a i d i a m a n t i n o n n a s c e niente, dal letame nascono i fior… D e A n d r é ' s p o r t r a y a l , a l o n g w i t h t h a t o f o t h e r Genoese singer-songwriters l i k e G i n o P a o l i , t r u l y cemented the caruggi as a symbol of the city's soul: their songs evoke the emo- tional attachment that many locals feel for these alleys, a place where the deeper iden- tity of the city still thrives, ready to be discovered and loved. If Genoa, the interna- tional, modern, global city, still recognizes and loves Z ê n a , i t s o l d , d a r k , s e a - scented, and slightly mouthy counterpart, it's also thanks to the caruggi. T o d a y , o f c o u r s e , t h e caruggi have adapted to the modern era but always keep their historical charm. The city of Genoa undertook var- ious initiatives to preserve the integrity of its medieval center, including the Piano Caruggi, a project aimed at revitalizing the area while respecting its historical sig- nificance. This effort led to the restoration of many of the city's ancient buildings, t h e r e v i v a l o f t r a d i t i o n a l businesses, and the estab- lishment of cultural institu- tions that highlight Genoa's heritage. H e r e y o u c a n a l s o f i n d s o m e o f t h e c i t y ' s m o s t beloved eateries and bars. For instance, Antica Frig- gitoria Carega, a historic fried-fish stall near the old port that served generations of Genoese, from dockwork- ers to artists, including Fab- rizio De André himself. At t h e A n t i c a F r i g g i t o r i a , cones filled with panissa, crispy anchovies, and cala- mari are handed out daily, following a ritual that has r e m a i n e d u n c h a n g e d f o r decades. Nearby, Friggito- ria San Giorgio continues the same tradition, offering freshly fried delicacies in the alleys close to Piazza San Giorgio. For a classic aperi- tivo, Bar delle Vigne in Vico dell' Amor Perfetto is a local favourite, known for its r e l a x e d a t m o s p h e r e a n d generous wine pours. The surrounding alleys also host traditional botteghe arti- giane: silk merchants, wood- workers, mercerie, and food shops that keep the artisanal heartbeat of the city alive. The caruggi of Genoa are a real reflection of the city itself: complex, layered, and full of stories to tell, a sheer reminder that the history of a place is not just found in grand monuments, but also – perhaps, especially – in the small, everyday spaces where life has been unfold- ing since time immemorial. FRANCESCA BEZZONE Through the caruggi: Genoa's historic alleys and their romanticized legacy Caruggi are narrow alleys characteristic of the Ligurian coast, and Genoa in particular (Photo: John Blanton/Dreamstime) A church bell tower, as seen through a caruggio (Photo: John Blanton/ Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE MOVIES MUSIC BOOKS

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