L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano " Figliuole e frit- telle, quante più se ne fa, più ven- gon belle." - Chil- dren and fried food: the more you make, the bet- ter they come out. There's something about t h a t s i z z l e , t h a t e n t i c i n g aroma, that ouch that hurts so good as your fingers wrap around a freshly fried (insert your choice) still dripping with oil. Crunch – ahhh! – such satisfaction, healthy or not, to indulge in something finger-licking fried. Fried foods are beloved throughout the world. Italy, h o w e v e r , h o n o r s h e r v a s t fried offerings with an elevat- ed status – a food not only sinfully delectable but funda- mentally tied to tradition and regionality. It's not surpris- ing, in this beautiful country where every bite tells a story a n d e v e r y m e a l i s n e x t t o sacred. Yet if you asked an o u t s i d e r " W h a t ' s y o u r favorite Italian food?" the answer probably wouldn't be "Anything fried!" Other than perhaps cannoli, Italy has kept her wealth of fried foods a b i t o f a g u a r d e d s e c r e t . T h r o u g h a l o o k i n g g l a s s , however, the extreme popu- l a r i t y o f a n y t h i n g f r i t t o (fried) comes quickly into focus. Debates on cholesterol go out the window; any local will proudly tell you of their village or region's "best any- where" fried specialty. Like the origins of toma- toes or pasta, Italy cannot lay claim to the instigation of fry- i n g e d i b l e s . F o o d h i s t o r y buffs will confirm that the earliest documented account o f W a n t f r i e s w i t h t h a t ? traces back to Egyptian cul- ture as early as 2500 BC, a n d e v e n p r i o r t o t h a t i n Mesopotamian society. Enter the Roman Empire and along with it, the advent of the pop- ularity of fried foods on Ital- ian soil. Historical treasures troves such as Pompeii and Herculaneum reveal the sto- ries of who ate what; trash dumps and food remnants verify that fried items were a daily staple for all classes. There is some evidence that olive oil was used as a frying medium, but because of its tendency to rapidly deterio- r a t e , a c o m b i n a t i o n o f garum, honey, and water was frequently thrown in the fry- ing pot. T h e a n c i e n t R o m a n s enjoyed songbirds as a deep- f r i e d s n a c k , b u t d i d y o u know fried chicken was on t h e m e n u l o n g b e f o r e Colonel Sanders showed up? The Roman gourmand Mar- cus Apicius (first century AD) details in his cookbook De Re Coquinaria (The Art of Cooking) how to make one unforgettable pullum frontonianum – aka fried c h i c k e n . W h i l e d i f f e r e n t f r o m o u r c o n t e m p o r a r y expectations, replications of Apicius' recipe uphold its qualifications for finger-lick- ing good. If something's edible and finds its way to an Italian kitchen, there is certainty that a sagra (food festival) w i l l e x i s t t o c e l e b r a t e i t . Fried foods are no exception. W i t h t h e v a s t n u m b e r o f s a g r e a c r o s s t h e c o u n t r y honoring a region's favorite fried dishes, the opportuni- t i e s t o e x p e r i e n c e a h o t , crunchy delicacy are in your favor. Every spring for the past 21 years, the ancient town of Ascoli Piceno in Le Marche has played host to the Fritto Misto – an all-encompass- ing food festival celebrating e v e r y t h i n g f r i e d . H e l d i n A s c o l i ' s o l d e s t a n d m o s t important square, Piazza Arringo, the 10-day festival h i g h l i g h t s b e l o v e d s t r e e t foods, as well as daring and innovative new additions. F r o m s u g a r y s w e e t N e a p o l i t a n g r a f f e t o Ascoli's trademark o l i v e a s c o l a n e – h u g e g r e e n olives stuffed with savory m e a t – t h e s e l e c t i o n i s i m p r e s s i v e a n d s u r e t o please anyone's craving for crunchy-fried deliciousness. It's one-stop shopping at its finest. I f y o u c a n ' t m a k e t h e Fritto Misto festival, no w o r r i e s . A s a g r a , w h i l e enjoyable and fun, is not a requirement for experiencing a region's fried specialties. Italy's fried food options are too numerous to adequately applaud in this short space, so follow along for a short- list overview of some not-to- be-missed regional stars. Southern Italy is the epi- center of fried specialties. Naples' pizza fritta may not be as well-known as its celebrity cousin Neapolitan pizza, but its popularity is gaining ground in Italy and abroad. Deep-fried to crispy, puffy perfection and brim- m i n g w i t h f r e s h t o m a t o sauce and buffalo mozzarel- la, this "pizza of the people" makes the perfect street food meal. Sicily shines with her arancini, crocchè (fried p o t a t o c r o q u e t t e s ) , a n d sweet sfinci – delicate fried dough topped with ricotta and candied fruit. Back on the peninsula, swing through Puglia for a taste of panze- rotto, another version of perfectly fried dough stuffed with tomatoes and anything else you desire. Opt for a few of Bari's savory fried meat b a l l s s t u f f e d w i t h c h e e s e known as bombette for a chaser. W h e n i n R o m e , s t r e e t food rules. Much like the south's arancini, highly pop- ular supplì consist of risotto r i c e c o m p r e s s e d a r o u n d mozzarella and ragù coated in breadcrumbs, then fried. Don't miss a chance to savor c a r c i o f i a l l a g i u d i a – R o m e ' s t w i c e - f r i e d a r t i - chokes. Simple yet scrump- tious, you'll never forget your first bite. Street food fans a l s o c l a m b e r f o r R o m e ' s filetti di baccalà – small filets of salt cod fried golden brown and served up sizzling hot. Heading north, the fried trend becomes a bit tamer. Traipsing through Tuscany, a variety of fried breads can satisfy savory cravings with offerings such as Florence's famed coccoli, fried dough balls typically partnered with prosciutto and cheese. How a b o u t s o m e o f E m i l i a - Romagna's gnocco frit- to? Standard gnocchi they are not, but fried yeast dough that puffs up perfectly for e n h a n c i n g a s i d e o f l o c a l salumi. Let's talk dessert! Fried dough rules and comes in m a n y s h a p e s a n d f o r m s . S u g a r y l i t t l e d o u g h n u t s known as bomboloni or anise-flavored brigidini wafers that go nicely with a scoop of gelato can satisfy most sweet tooths. Many, such as struffoli and chi- acchiere, are associated w i t h h o l i d a y s b u t c a n b e found year-round. If you've ever encountered a freshly fried cannolo shell over- flowing with ricotta, you are as grateful as I that these Sicilian treats can be found throughout the country. Regional pride and per- s o n a l t a s t e s d i c t a t e w h a t fried food is considered "the best," but one dish crosses all boundaries and unites Ital- ian taste buds from north to south: fritto misto (fried mix). Not to be confused with the festival of the same name, this menu item is as common as an Italian wine l i s t . T h e m i x m i g h t v a r y depending on locale; you'll find fried sea creatures of e v e r y s o r t c l o s e r t o t h e ocean, while fried veggies and cheeses will be more common inland and accord- ing to season. F r y i n g i s a l i t t l e l i k e magic; just about anything can be dipped in a coating and plopped in scalding oil to produce an irresistibly sat- isfying dish. When in Italy, follow your nose for finding the best fried fare; but better yet, follow a local. Standards are high, costs are low, and the love is real. PAULA REYNOLDS Graffe are traditional fried donuts, usually served around Carnevale in Naples (Photo: Olga Mazyarkina/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Come Fry with Me – Italy's love affair with fried foods

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