L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano I n I t a l i a n c o o k i n g , pasta always leaves room for some inter- esting adjustments. In ciceri e tria, a traditional dish from Salen- to, that adjustment takes the form of a deliberate split: part of the pasta is boiled, as o n e w o u l d e x p e c t , w h i l e a n o t h e r p o r t i o n i s f r i e d until crisp and layered on top to create an interesting contrast. Set at the southernmost edge of the region, Salento h a s l o n g b e e n s h a p e d b y movement and exchange; over centuries, this narrow peninsula absorbed influ- ences arriving by sea and l a n d , n o t a l l a t o n c e , b u t gradually, through trade, occupation, and contact with t h e w i d e r M e d i t e r r a n e a n world. As you may guess, its cooking evolved accordingly, favoring ingredients that were accessible and tech- niques that could be adapted to different ingredients and necessities. Within that con- t e x t , c i c e r i e t r i a m a k e s immediate sense. Even the language used to describe the dish reflects this multi-faceted and rich past: c i c e r i r e f e r s s i m p l y t o chickpeas, a staple with ancient roots and a constant presence in southern Italian kitchens; tria, by contrast, is m o r e i n t e r e s t i n g a n d deserves some attention. The term is widely linked to the Arabic itriyya, associated with early forms of pasta, a n d p o i n t s t o m e d i e v a l exchanges that left traces not only in trade routes but in everyday speech. In Salento, tria came to mean the pasta i t s e l f – f r e s h r i b b o n s o f dough cut by hand – so that the name of the dish pre- serves, almost without com- ment, the memory of those encounters. We can really say the dish carries centuries of history and cultural con- nections in its name! The recipe in itself is very simple and, at least in part, created by necessity: chick- p e a s p r o v i d e d a r e l i a b l e source of protein in house- holds where meat was limit- ed or reserved for special occasions, while pasta made f r o m s e m o l i n a a n d w a t e r could be prepared with mini- mal resources. Plus, the pair- ing of pasta and legumes was – a n d r e m a i n s – h a r d l y unusual in Italy. There is a t w i s t , t h o u g h , a n d t h a t ' s where ciceri e tria becomes truly special: the pasta is divided and cooked differ- e n t l y . M o s t o f t h e t r i a i s boiled with the chickpeas, so it softens and absorbs their f l a v o r , w h i l e a p o r t i o n i s fried to introduce richness and texture. It is the fried pasta – crisp a n d g o l d e n – t h a t g i v e s ciceri e tria its character, creating a contrast able to transform an otherwise sim- ple preparation into some- t h i n g m o r e c o m p l e x , b u t without excesses. Historical- ly, this step likely emerged f r o m r o u t i n e , a s o i l w a s a l r e a d y p r e s e n t i n t h e kitchen, and frying a small portion of dough prevented waste while making the meal feel more substantial. Over time, what may have begun as a matter of convenience settled into habit, and then into identity, while also set- t i n g t h e d i s h a p a r t f r o m o t h e r p a s t a - a n d - l e g u m e p r e p a r a t i o n s f o u n d e l s e - where in Italy. In Salento, ciceri e tria is traditionally associated with S t . J o s e p h ' s D a y o n M a r c h 1 9 , a d a t e t h a t , across the Italian South usu- ally calls for meatless dishes tied to ideas of humility and sharing, the same ideas that, somehow, still represent the dish today. Because don't be mistaken: this is a plate that r e m a i n s f i r m l y p a r t o f domestic cooking, even if it is also, today, considered a traditional regional dish. Its fame and popularity don't come from restaurants, they come from our grandmoth- ers' pantries. What we enjoy today is a dish still prepared according to the same rules and logic, even if, as it always happens in Italian traditional cuisine, small variations appear from kitchen to kitchen – some cooks, for instance, add aro- m a t i c s , o t h e r s k e e p t h e c h i c k p e a s a l m o s t p l a i n . What follows is a traditional but very practical version, e a s i l y p r e p a r e d i n e v e r y modern home kitchen. Ciceri e Tria (Serves 4) Ingredients 1 cup dried chickpeas (or 2 cans, 15 oz each, drained and rinsed) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for frying 1 s m a l l o n i o n , f i n e l y chopped 1 c l o v e g a r l i c , l i g h t l y crushed Salt and black pepper, to taste For the pasta (tria) 2 cups semolina flour ¾ cup warm water Pinch of salt Instructions If using dried chickpeas, soak them overnight in plen- ty of water. Drain, then cook in fresh water until tender, about 1 to 1½ hours. If using canned chickpeas, skip this step. In a large pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook briefly, then a d d t h e c h i c k p e a s . C o v e r with water and simmer gen- tly for about 20 minutes to allow the flavors to combine. Season with salt and pepper. M e a n w h i l e , m a k e t h e pasta. On a clean work sur- face, mound the semolina flour and salt, then gradually add the warm water, mixing until a smooth, firm dough forms. Knead for a few min- utes, then cover and let rest for 15-20 minutes. Roll the dough out thinly and cut into short ribbons, about ½ inch wide. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Set aside about one-quarter of the pasta rib- b o n s . B o i l t h e r e m a i n i n g p a s t a u n t i l t e n d e r , t h e n drain and add it directly to the chickpea pot, stirring gently. H e a t a b o u t ½ i n c h o f olive oil in a small pan. Fry the reserved pasta until gold- en and crisp, then drain on paper towels. Serve the chickpeas and boiled pasta in bowls, top- p i n g e a c h p o r t i o n w i t h a handful of the fried tria. Add a d r i z z l e o f o l i v e o i l i f desired. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Ciceri e Tria is a traditional dish from Salento. In it, pasta is both boiled and fried (Photo: Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Ciceri e Tria: a Salentine classic built on simplicity

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