L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Talkin' Prosecco I t could be said that Prosecco is the Swiss army knife of Italian wine. Its incredible utility allows it to bring just the right service to many occasions, from an enjoyable aperitivo to celebra- tory sipping to fine accompani- ment at table. Mapping Prosecco's utility to the right occasion can require a bit of sorting, however. Although they share the Prosecco name in title, simple but enjoyable wines of Prosecco DOC and the richer, more com- plex Prosecco Superiore wines of Conegliano Valdobbiane Prosecco DOCG and Asolo Prosecco DOCG, can deliver very different experiences. The production area for Prosecco DOC encompasses approximately 43,200 acres across five Veneto provinces (Treviso, Venice, Vicenza, Padua, Belluno) and 4 provinces in Friuli Venezia Giulia (Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine). It includes subzones Treviso and Trieste, areas that can apply their name on the bottle if grapes are grown and the wine bottled in their respective areas. Prosecco DOC wines can be synonymous with high volume production and admittedly, in some cases, to banish the word industrial from one's mind can prove a difficult undertaking. Let it be said, howe- ver, that there are indeed occa- sions where Prosecco DOC wines can provide just the right prescription. The production area for Conegliano Valdobbiane Prosecco DOCG wines repre- sents a much smaller area in comparison, about 16,250 acres. Considered by many to be the area of top quality Prosecco, the denomination is situated within the larger Prosecco DOC. Conegliano Valdobbiane Prosecco DOCG includes the well-known grand cru of Cartizze. With vastly reduced production quantities compared to Prosecco DOC and agricultu- rally focused grape grower / pro- ducers, the wines of Conegliano Valdobbiane Prosecco DOCG more correspond to what we might equate with artisan wine production. Although so much of Prosecco talk seems to orbit around highly regarded Conegliano-Valdobbiandene, some well-deserved light should be shone upon the Asolo Prosecco DOCG. Even though Asolo earned its status as DOCG (2009), the area too often goes without mention, raised as an afterthought to many Prosecco discussions. At approximately 475 acres, Asolo Prosecco DOCG is smallest both in area and production volume. Its Prosecco Superiore wines are superb. A distinguishing factor among the three denominations, it's fair to say, is that the lower amount of allowable yields in the DOCG areas ensure wines of a more consistent quality. Prosecco is made from the white grape variety known as Glera. DOC and DOCG denomi- nations guidelines require a minimum 85% of Glera. DOCG rules as they relate to Conegliano Valdobbiadene specify the use of complimentary native varieties only in blending. Both Prosecco DOC and Asolo Prosecco DOCG allow more latitude in the blend including varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Prosecco should smell brigh- tly of pears and apples. In the mouth, Prosecco should be light, lively, and above all fresh, with good acidity and fine perlage. Notes of flowers, stone fruit, citrus or even bread crust may be found depending on the particu- lar style and/or production area. Prosecco should present itself with impeccable balance. Many would say a key to doing so is greater percentages of Glera. I am not convinced that is always the case as I have found bottlings that contain native varieties like Bianchetta or Perera to be insa- nely delicious. I would offer, though, that the addition of, say, Chardonnay, for example, can chew away at Prosecco character by introducing weightier palate sensations along with impres- sions of fruit and nuance that can be atypical. Most Prosecco is produced using the Martinotti method, aka Charmat, where bubbles are pro- duced in a pressurized stainless steel temperature controlled tank. That method differs from the classic or traditional approach employed in champagne produc- tion whereby bubbles are produ- ced from fermentation inside the bottle itself (although the classic method is used in a minority of Prosecco production). Prosecco can be made as sparkling (spumante), semi- sparkling (frizzante), or still (tranquillo) wine. What we widely recognize as classic Prosecco is the full sparkling or spumante version. You will find Prosecco produ- ced in several different styles with differing levels of residual sugar, the main ones being: Brut (0-12 grams), Extra Dry (12-17 grams), and Dry (17 grams plus). Remember that, generally speaking, the younger you drink Prosecco the better, so buy the current vintage. I encourage you to explore the diversity offered by Prosecco DOC /DOCG bottlings and diffe- rent production styles. Together, they combine to give Prosecco that incredible utility mentioned earlier, from informal quaffing to the most important meal or spe- cial occasion. MacGyver would love it. Tasting Note: Bele Casel Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Crisp and bright, with perfu- me of pear, apple and citrus-flo- ral overtones. Vibrant in the mouth, fine perlage, balanced palate sensations, completely in tune. Finishes with notes of almond cream and good sense of structure. Magnificent. Prosecco DOC wines can be synonymous with high volume production , however, there are occasions where they can provide just the right prescription. Photo: rossandhelen WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK Both Prosecco DOC and Asolo Prosecco DOCG allow more latitude in the blend including varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 23, 2017

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