L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, APRIL 6, 2017 L'Italo-Americano VINCENZA DI MAGGIO I f you've ever visited the Apulian countryside, you've walked amongst the giants. The majestic ulivi secolari (cen- turies-old olive trees) have stood the grueling test of time. Imbued with a sage elegance and peace- ful tiredness that only comes with old age, these enduring monuments have dominated the Apulian landscape for over 2,700 years. From the Messapi, Romans and Byzantines, to the Angevins, Aragonese and Spanish, these ancient trees have witnessed the rise and fall of one grand civilization after another, and will continue to live on long after we're gone. There's a rever- ence that you feel must be owed to these majestic trees that have lived through it all, not only because of their commanding presence, but also for the liquid gold they have produced for cen- turies: extra virgin olive oil. The Apulia region produces almost 40% of Italy's total olive oil production, and many would argue that it's of the highest quality in the world. I spoke with Paolo Lo Monaco, collaborator at the Azienda Agricola Lubes Maria, which is owned by his wife, Maria Lubes, and is located in the province of Bari, in the municipalities of Sannicandro di Bari and Acquaviva delle Fonti. He explained what exactly it is about extra virgin olive oil pro- duced in Apulia that distinguish- es it from that of other countries. To begin with, "extra virgin" olive oil refers to that which is produced without the use of chemical substances or treat- ments that will deteriorate or alter the oil's natural acidity. "To obtain said oil, only fresh, high quality olives that are harvested and juiced should be used. [The olives] should not undergo treat- ment other than washing, separa- tion of leaves, centrifugation and filtration," explained Mr. Lo Monaco. Furthermore, an oil is consid- ered "extra virgin" if it has an acidic level of under 1% and does not have any of the twelve defects, which include the possi- ble presence of hay, dirt, mold, or dregs. The best extra virgin olive oils have all three of the follow- ing pregi, or positive attributes: fruitiness, bitterness and spici- ness. According to Mr. Lo Monaco, the production of such high qual- ity oil is dependent upon four main factors: the climatic condi- tions of the zone of production, the kind of olives used, the com- position of the soil, and the ripeness of the olives at the time of harvest. "The first distinctive sign of a high quality extra virgin olive oil is the fruitiness, or the scent that is reminiscent of fruit, which is obtained when an olive is crushed between the fingers," he explained. This is dependent upon the quality of olives used. "Like flowers, there are those that have a strong scent, and those that you can't sense at all. Olives are the same," he said. The bitter and spicy qualities of the extra virgin olive oil, on the other hand, are attributed to the ripeness of the olive when it is harvested. "Olives go through three stages, green, yellow and pink, and black. If you pick [the olives] when they're green, the more bitter the oil will taste. The closer it gets to black, the more you don't taste the bitterness," said Mr. Lo Monaco. The best time to pick the olives is when they're in transition from yellow to pink. The geographic location of Apulia, a strip of land that stretches along the Adriatic sea, lends itself to optimal climatic conditions for olive oil produc- tion. The Azienda Agricola Lubes Maria, for example, is located on a piece of land 250 meters above sea level. "The land enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate, with rainfall concentrat- ed in the autumnal and winter periods, followed by average high temperatures that last until the drought in the summer peri- od," explained Mr. Lo Monaco. Still, there is a significant dif- ference in the flavor found in the olive oil produced in this region of Italy as compared to olive oil produced in other countries, such as Spain, Turkey and Greece, which also reap the benefits of a Mediterranean climate. The dif- ference is in the quality of the olives harvested. To clarify, almost all olive trees are ulivi secolari. These ancient trees produce a variety of olives that range in quality. "We use coratina olives," said Mr. Lo Monaco. "The coratina [olive] was born in Puglia, and is a representation of the region's true heritage and tra- ditional olive-growing culture. Therefore, the oil that comes from it is a typical product of this region and offers the consumer a guarantee of its origin and authenticity." Coratina extra vir- gin olive oil produced by the Azienda Agricola Lubes Maria is of a high quality because it has all three of the defining charac- teristics (fruitiness, bitterness, and spiciness), and presents none of the twelve defects. Naturally rich in antioxidants, polyphenols and vitamins A, D and E, it also has many health benefits. "Those qualities are almost never found in oils from other countries. The oils from other countries are rather neutral in terms of taste," said Mr. Lo Monaco. In addition to the factors men- tioned above, there are also a few other things that determine the quality of the extra virgin olive oil, such as the conserva- tion of the oil (it is best if it is consumed in the same year of production), any treatments done on the plants or to the land, the health of the plants, and the tech- nology used to pick the olives. The best harvest method, holds Mr. Lo Monaco, is the traditional one: hand-picking the olives from the plant. "It allows you to pick the fruit at the desired ripeness, in the best conditions, when it is whole, and without it touching the ground," he explained. Dip a piece of fresh bread into a dish of Coratina extra virgin olive oil, take in the fruitful smell and savor the bitter and spicy notes. If you close your eyes, you might just see yourself driving down an old Apulian road, where blankets of those ancient trees stretch for miles and miles on either side of you. If only we could hear the age-old secrets that lie hidden in the knots of their gnarled tree trunks. The best harvest method, holds Mr. Lo Monaco, is the traditional one: hand-picking the olives from the plant. "It allows you to pick the fruit at the desired ripeness, in the best conditions, when it is whole, and without it touching the ground," he explained. Photo courtesy of Azienda Agricola Lubes Maria LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE Apulia's Liquid Gold: Fruity, Bitter and a Touch of Spicy

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