L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Two impressive red wines from Friuli A s a wine region, Friuli is arguably better known for its wonderful white wines. With grape varieties such as Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Pinot Grigio, Ribolla, Verduzzo and Picolit, Friuli white wines epito- mize a style one might describe as clean, lean and aromatic. But Friuli has remarkably delicious red wines too, which are produced from indigenous varieties and should not be over- looked. While at the 2017 edition of Vinitaly in Verona, I explored tw o impres s iv e F riuli reds , Refosco and Tazzelenghe, total- ly worth your trouble to seek out. One is an up and coming star, the other a nearly disappea- red variety but one with great potential. I especially enjoyed versions produced by the small, family-run w inery of J acùs s located in the Friulian province of Udine. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is most famous and important among the confusing Refosco group of indigenous Italian grape varieties that untangle their intricacies with no less effort than one would unravel a bowl- ful of spaghetti. To enhance the confusion just a bit, most folks anyw ay refer to Refos co dal P eduncolo Ros s o as s imply Refosco. P rimarily grow n in F riuli (though can be found in Veneto), Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is Friuli's best known red grape variety. Like many other indige- nous Italian grape vines that deri- ve their names from physical attributes , Refos co dal P eduncolo Ros s o derives its moniker from the fact that its stalk reddens when the fruit is ripe. And lest you doubt its pedi- gree, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso has been shown to be a parent to Corvina and grand- father to Rondinella, two grape varieties used to make the distin- guis hed V alpolicella and Amarone wines of Veneto. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso wines show good complexity, giving notes of dried red cher- ries, berries, herbs, almonds, and flowers, and can exert good tan- nic grip. Although aromatic, Refosco does not always deliver the longes t of finis hes . N ot unlike the Cabernets, Refosco needs to ripen well, otherwise it can give green aromas/flavors to the wine if picked too early. The rare Tazzelenghe is an indigenous red F riuli grape variety of great interest. The name Tazzelenghe evolved from local dialect tàcelenghe meaning 'cuts the tongue', a reference to the wine's ample acidity and high tannins. As far as I know, the variety grows only in Friuli, a fact which was affirmed while tasting with the good folks from J acùs s . It s trikes me that Tazzelenghe may be one of those varieties that one either loves or hates . In that regard, Tazzelenghe is a real underdog among other grape varieties which seem to make consumer friends quite easily with their approachable wines. F ormerly recognized as a member of the Refosco family, Tazzelenghe makes lighter- bodied wines with potential for aging. There exists, I'm told, only a few hectares of Tazzelenghe in Friuli. Whatever may have been the preceding circumstance - some say phyl- loxera played a role - it appears the variety had been disfavored by local producers. Even though Tazzelenghe has good resistance to disease, producer attention nonetheless shifted in favor of other varieties. A small group of dedicated producers found the wherewithal to accept whatever commercial and/or financial risk that came w ith making Tazzelenghe wine in quantities significant enough for commer- cial sale of the wine (especially considering a lack of any real established market). I am grate- ful, as it would be a shame to lose this rare native variety. Thankfully, at leas t for the moment, wine lovers have a chance to experience and, hope- fully, understand Tazzelenghe and, perhaps , play a role in determining its future course. Tas ting the J acùs s Tazzelenghe made me believe that, like Refosco, when made well, Tazzelenghe wines can indeed offer good complexity, showing notes of flowers, dark berries, and earth. Unfortunately, wines made from Tazzelenghe appear to be still not so available in the USA. In fact, a search of the variety name at a well-known online sourcing site returned only a handful of results. To taste either wine, I would direct you to the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC. Recommended Refos co producers include Jacùss, Ronchi di Cialla, and Scarbolo. For Tazzelenghe, I refer you to producer Jacùss, although to my great surprise (importers, I hope you are liste- ning) that producers appear una- vailable in the US. Therefore, you may wish to try La Viarte, a w ell-regarded producer of Tazzelenghe w ith s ome U S distribution. Y ou might enjoy pairing Tazzelenghe with both red and white roasted meats, as well as rich meat sauces. Refosco will flatter fattier meat dishes, roa- sted pork, and again, as with Tazzelenghe, rich meat sauces, and medium aged cheeses. Jacùss Tazzelenghe N otes of violets , berries , herbs and spice. While soft in the mouth, the wine has a certain intriguing austerity. Finishes with good tannic grip and a plea- sant bitter note. Winemakers Sandro and Andrea Iacuzzi WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2017 Recommended Refosco producers include Jacùss, Ronchi di Cialla, and Scarbolo

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